Shot Master Cylinder??

[1BADGT4]

My 04 Monster 1kDS has been sitting for the last 3 years.  The front reservoir fluid was rusty, and plenty of air in the lines.

Yesterday, I spent 2.5(!) hours bleeding the two front calipers, using up an entire 36oz DOT4 bottle.  Before bleeding, the brakes did not engage with the lever held down.  After 36oz and the lever depressed, nothing has changed.  I was able to get majority of the bigger air pockets bled out. Little tiny bubbles were left, just not as often.

My technique was pump x5 (both fast and slowly), hold lever, then open the nipple. 

The rear system was a different story.  I haven't gotten around to it yet, but the brakes functioned just fine.

Help??

[caperix]

I have had difficulty bleeding without a vacuum bleeder, pumping the lever does not move enough fluid to get the big air bubbles out. Do you have bleed scews at the master cylinder? That made bleeding my diavel master cylinders much easier

[Howie]

Assuming no caliper or brake line leaks possibility is your master is bypassing fluid internally, particularly since you lost pressure before bleeding. Rusty I do not understand.  Your brake parts are aluminum.  But, as caperex said, you might just be unsuccessful at bleeding.  Bleeding is easy in theory, but not always so easy in practice.  There may be nothing new to you here, but I am going to go through proper sequence. 

You will need clear tubing and a clear container.  Start by filling the reservoir and with the cap off very slowly pumping the lever until you see no bubbles.  You need to cover all painted surfaces as brake fluid eats paint.  Replace cap.  Since you have a clear reservoir if your reservoir is till transparent enough you can leave the cap on.  Bleed the caliper furthest from the master.  Clean bleeder screw, place tight clear hose on bleeder and place in container partially filled with clean brake fluid.  Pump lever slowly two or three times, open bleeder.  With lever still squeezed, close bleeder.  Rinse, was, repeat until you see no bubbles.  Move on to the next caliper.  Then the master.  The master should be as close to parallel to the ground as possible to prevent trapped air.  You should now have pressure. 

If you need a new master you can get one from our sponsor Moto Wheels at a relatively reasonable price  http://motowheels.com/i-13896906-brembo-goldline-small-pivot-brake-master-cylinder.html

[DarkMonster620]

If none of howie's instructions work, get 2 4mm thick plywood pieces cut at aprox, 1.5"x 5" > take calipers off bike and ELEVATE ABOVE MASTER[including tubing and container] and lock the brake lever with a tie wrap or something . ..  Leave like this for a few hours, since air travel UP, the big bubbles you couldn't take out before should have come out . .if NOT, then

If you need a new master you can get one from our sponsor Moto Wheels at a relatively reasonable price  http://motowheels.com/i-13896906-brembo-goldline-small-pivot-brake-master-cylinder.html

[1BADGT4]

Do you have bleed scews at the master cylinder?

No, the master cylinder does not have a bleed screw.

Assuming no caliper or brake line leaks possibility is your master is bypassing fluid internally, particularly since you lost pressure before bleeding. Rusty I do not understand. 

You will need clear tubing and a clear container.  Start by filling the reservoir and with the cap off very slowly pumping the lever until you see no bubbles.  You need to cover all painted surfaces as brake fluid eats paint.  Replace cap.  Since you have a clear reservoir if your reservoir is till transparent enough you can leave the cap on.  Bleed the caliper furthest from the master.  Clean bleeder screw, place tight clear hose on bleeder and place in container partially filled with clean brake fluid.  Pump lever slowly two or three times, open bleeder.  With lever still squeezed, close bleeder.  Rinse, was, repeat until you see no bubbles.  Move on to the next caliper.  Then the master.  The master should be as close to parallel to the ground as possible to prevent trapped air.  You should now have pressure. 

If you need a new master you can get one from our sponsor Moto Wheels at a relatively reasonable price  http://motowheels.com/i-13896906-brembo-goldline-small-pivot-brake-master-cylinder.html

Nope, no external leak.

"Rusty" as in the fluid in the master cylinder is reddish.

Procedure-wise.  I did the same procedure like yours ... until you mentioned the caliper and cylinder.  My 04 DS1k only has two nipples; one for each caliper.  There's no nipple on the master cylinder.

Again, I close the nipple, pump a couple times, hold the lever, and crack the nipple.  Pressurized fluid (and bubbles), shoots through the clear tubing, and into the bottle. Top off master when low.  Rinse and repeat.

For $160, do I have other options other than the OEM you linked?

If none of howie's instructions work, get 2 4mm thick plywood pieces cut at aprox, 1.5"x 5" > take calipers off bike and ELEVATE ABOVE MASTER[including tubing and container] and lock the brake lever with a tie wrap or something . ..  Leave like this for a few hours, since air travel UP, the big bubbles you couldn't take out before should have come out . .if NOT, then

In American-ese, is a "4mm" ply a 1/4" ply? :   I'm assuming its to simulate the rotors?

So ... how would I get the SS brakelines and calipers up through the forks and headlights?

Thanks guys

[DarkMonster620]

Jejejeje . . . Sorry, 4mm is less than 1/4", but that size might fit, tigthly, but fits . ..

Sorry, fogot to mention that at the time the buke was sort of apart . .. Just do the "squeezed" lever thing and try bleeding normally again . . . The way I do it is:

Pump 3 times and hold the 4th and open bleeder . .. repeat 3x each caliper . . .

[Howie]

Strange you do not have a bleeder on the master.  As you see, the master in the link has one and so does my '04 1000 DS. A photo might help.  Are you the original owner of the bike?  My not understanding "rusty" is your brake parts are aluminum, not steel and your fluid should not be reddish.  Brake fluid, as it ages goes from amber to dark amber and eventually black.  Hopefully your fluid is not contaminated.

You might try back bleeding.  This video saves me a lot of typing   

You could upgrade to a radial master for more dollars or substitute with another brand or model axial with the same bore that fits your 22mm. handlebar but this could require modification.  Window shop here  http://motorcyclebrakessuspension.com/products/brake-master-cylinder

[koko64]

You can buy banjo bolts with in built bleeders. Try that before a new m/c. Cracking the banjo to bleed like a bleed nipple is another way. You need three hands and a rag to wrap around the banjo and wrench while pumping the lever. A buddy and six pack are needed.