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Author Topic: Oil Pressure Light Flickers  (Read 1486 times)
RB
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« on: March 19, 2024, 07:36:10 AM »

A few months ago I went to take the Monster S2R for a ride and noticed the oil light sis not shut off after start. I shut the bike down immediately. Oil level was fine, and oil pump seemed to be moving oil, i had no weird sounds. So I ordered a new (GM or VW, can't recall now) oil pressure sensor, to no avail. I bought a second oil pressure sensor and got the same results. After some research some say there may be trash in the pump or relief valve. Took everything apart and cleaned, but didn't see anything. Oil pump was removed and seemed to spin freely without any noise. Oil change didn't reveal any glittery bits.
Fast forward, I reassemble, add oil and one of the new oil pressure sensors, and the light goes out. Great!, nope, take it for a ride, about 20miles and the light starts flickering at idle. Checked the wire for a short or continuity issues but couldn't get it to repeat with the voltmeter.

Any ideas, I haven't checked the oil pressure yet, have a gauge on order now. Anyone know what ideal PSI or Bar is for the oil pump pressure?

Cheers
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2024, 08:52:21 AM »

Oil light flickering at idle is usually a problem with the connector at the sensor. Not uncommon.
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Howie
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2024, 09:11:12 AM »

How many miles on the bike?  Flickering when warmed up at idle is a concern, but not a reason, IMO, to panic.  Constant on, stop riding immediately.

Oil light flickering at idle is usually a problem with the connector at the sensor. Not uncommon.

Yep, moisture getting in the connector can do that for days.  Remove connector and allow it to dry. 
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RB
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2024, 09:24:36 AM »

Thanks folks ,bike has 41k miles. The switch wire was checked for continuity, I tried fiddling with it while checking to see if I could break the circuit but no dice. So this tells me the wire and connectors are good since it’s a single wire that runs from the switch to the gauge cluster. I’m thinking about just replacing the entire wire to rule out a weak connection. In the past moisture would set off the light, but that was usually after a wash. It has been dry here and I haven’t got any water near it in months.
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2024, 12:15:37 PM »

What year bike, and what weight oil?
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2024, 01:28:17 PM »

Sorry I didn't include the info. Its 2006 800cc with 41k miles running 15w50 Motul (red).
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Howie
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2024, 04:08:46 AM »

Missed the question in your post.

Oil pressure cold   2.5 bar at 1100-1300RPM
                         4-6 bar at 35000-4000RPM

Oil pressure hot    1.1 bar at 1100-1300RPM
                         4-6 bar at 35000-4000RPM
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stopintime
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2024, 04:59:06 AM »

Where is this measured?

I ask because I thought it was way higher out of the pump than out of the crank case.....
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2024, 05:21:09 AM »

Shouldn't make a lot of difference, but I'd run 20w50 in it and see if it helps. It's an approved weight for 00 C, and above according to the manual.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


Howie
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« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2024, 03:18:31 PM »

Easiest way is remove the oil pressure sending unit and screw in the gauge.
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Howie
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2024, 10:58:19 AM »

Isee you did a dry clutch conversion.  The question i am going toask is really for anyone.  I donxt see where this could happenn but could there be possibility of internal leakage in the oil cirquit?
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