Wet Clutch Replacement

Started by Mother, October 23, 2008, 09:10:21 AM

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Mother

2003 M620

Clutch slips when opening throttle hard in 3rd-5th gear

who wants to 'splain me the process beyone what I understand

1) drain oil

2) take off throttle side cover

3) this is where I 'm a bit IZ_ on the details and plan on using common sense

4) put cover back on

5) put oil in it

I'm going to purchase Barnett wet clutch plates from CA Cycleworks

but what else is mandatory replacement?

springs and retainers?

clutch basket and pressure plate?

can I just replace the plates?

is any part of my wet clutch reusable?

Howie

Unless there are visible signs of wear on the basket (unlikely on a wet clutch) just the plates.  You might want to use 750 springs since the 620 springs are on the light side.  Note orientation of pressure plate, if you don't see the marks make your own.  Check stack height.  All else is common sense.

Speeddog

3) Pay attention to how things come apart, take notes and pictures if you need to.
    Watch for O-rings on the side cover.
    Remove bolts that hold the springs on.
    Loosen 'em more or less evenly, like 3 turns on one, then the next, etc.

3a) Remove the pressure plate.
      It may bring the pushrod with it, if so pull it straight out using some care.

3b) Inspect the O-rings on the pushrod and the surface of the pushrod where it runs in the bearing on the right end of the trans shaft, replace if necessary.

3c) Fish out the clutch plates, stack 'em in the order they came out (not crucial, but it can help with diagnosis and it's good technique, and helps for reassembly).

3d) Inspect the basket and hub for unusual wear, burrs, etc.

3e) Install the new steels and frictions, with the same 'order' as what you took out.

3f) Install the pressure plate, aligning the arrowhead on the pressure plate with the slotted post end of the basket.

3g) Install the springs, tightening each bolt a couple of turns at a time, working your way around on the set.

3h) *Gently* tighten them after they come up solid, they're small bolts and break fairly easily.

3i) Reinstall the sidecover, watching that you've got all the O-rings in their proper places and that they don't fall out.

.... perhaps more, that's all I've got off of the top of my hear right now...
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CairnsDuc

(3J) Take lot's of pictures and make a how to thread when your done  [thumbsup]

ellingly

I'm happy to be wrong, but I thought with most wet clutches you soaked the plates in some oil before you installed them. Like I said, could be wrong, but it's what I've always done when I've done a clutch on something which is wet.
Team Ghetto Racing: motorcycle racing and riding on a budget
2006 Ducati MS2R1000 road | 1973 Suzuki GT250 cafe race | 1982 Yamaha RD250LC race | 1991 Suzuki GSXR750 perpetual project | 1984 Suzuki TS250x vintage enduro | 1997 Honda CT110 postie of death | 1982 Kawasaki KH100 bucket racer

bigiain

Quote from: Speeddog on October 23, 2008, 11:06:11 AM
3) Pay attention to how things come apart, take notes and pictures if you need to.
    Watch for O-rings on the side cover.
    Remove bolts that hold the springs on.
    Loosen 'em more or less evenly, like 3 turns on one, then the next, etc.

Do this while the engine is cold (as in sat overnight cold), and use a good quality allen key - if the motor is warm the bolts tighten up and if you use a poorly fitting allen key you'll round them out - that's a pain in the ass (go on, I'll give you one guess how I know that...)

Oh yeah, and that o-ring on the side cover he mentioned? that'll be the one you left out if your oil light comes on at idle when you've put it all back together...

big

RodeoClown

Quote from: Speeddog on October 23, 2008, 11:06:11 AM
3h) *Gently* tighten them after they come up solid, they're small bolts and break fairly easily.

+1 on the bolts are easy to break!!
2000 M750 Dark(Black Betty); 88 FZR400

KEH

+1 on the o-rings! They are easy to misalign, lose, forget about, etc. If not installed correctly, you will have to pull the cover back off and do it again.

Langanobob

+1 on what Howie said about installing stronger springs.  It seems like the majority of the slipping clutch threads have been about M620's and the stock springs are on weak side.   

scott_araujo

And a dab of grease on the end of the pushrod that touches the slave cylinder.

Scott

Howie

This is turning into a great thread!  Lots of constructive additions.  When done, someone with good editorial skills (rules me out) should turn this into a "how to"

Mother

Quote from: howie on October 30, 2008, 12:43:13 PM
This is turning into a great thread!  Lots of constructive additions.  When done, someone with good editorial skills (rules me out) should turn this into a "how to"

and

come out here to take pictures and turn the wrenches  [thumbsup]

;D




I think just for giggles I'm going to swap out the springs and run it to see if it holds

then change out the plates

Does it matter if I get 750 or 800 springs?


Howie

Quote from: Mother on October 31, 2008, 01:58:31 PM
and

come out here to take pictures and turn the wrenches  [thumbsup]

;D




I think just for giggles I'm going to swap out the springs and run it to see if it holds

then change out the plates

Does it matter if I get 750 or 800 springs?



Send me a paid round trip plane ticket and I'll be there. 

Off hand, I ain't got the foggiest about dimension or spring rate differences between the 750 or 800.   I think the 750 is a pretty safe bet.  The 800 does use a different pressure plate.  Do measure spring diameter and height first.  Your worry would be the spring fitting in the seat and not binding when compressed.