Frame weldin'

[TAftonomos]

Question for you experts out there.

I'm going to push forward with my aluminum subframe project/solo seat provided I can do one thing....leave everything in/on the frame.  That goes for the electronics.

I would disconnect the ECU and battery, but are there going to be any problems with welding the bungs to the frame for the seat mount?  I seem to remember a long time ago (when I worked for crane cams) a CDI box that came in for repair....the entire board was melted from someone welding in the car.  Perhaps they wern't using a good ground, or any ground to the machine at all....but I can't afford to melt the electronics to do this.

Winter time I will do paint/powder and pull it down to a frame....but I know how things go....do that now and there goes riding it for 6 months!

[MotoCreations]

HF start on your TIG is the deadly culprit. (the new HF start on the Inverter setups is even worse!) Plus of couse clamp location and heat associated due to welding itself.

Thus if concerned, just use a "lift arc" TIG start for welding on the frame itself.

Did you buy one of Stuart / FlightCycles aluminum frame kits and thus are adding the spuds for it?  It would be nice to see someone on the board install one as they look pretty cool.

[TAftonomos]

Thanks Mark!

Never used the lift start method, so I'll try it and see.

I machined up the bungs on my lathe.  Still need to machine the flats in them so they will fit together but I'm lacking a mill attachment for my southbend.  Man, they are PROUD of those when you can find one!!

[suzyj]

Oy!  There's like two connectors and two bolts to remove, and you can pull your ECU off and out of harm's way.  Much the same goes for your instruments.

[battlecry]

Syncronicity?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604512