Yeah, yeah, it's not a Duc, but this is a technical section, and I reckon some of the guys here will be of more use than most other forums on the net. Hence I'm asking it here.
I've been battling for almost 3 years to rebuild a Honda CT110 I bought as a box of parts. This is actually a 1989 model, which is past the models that you guys get in the states (I think they stopped at '86 in the US), but it's really a hybrid of whatever parts I can get my hands on. It's still a classic 6V one. Because I'm not expecting anyone to know the wiring off their head, this is pretty much the wiring setup that I have harnesses for.
You'll probably want to open it up in a new tab or window so you can refer to it while I crap on about my problems.
Wiring diagram resides under hereMy issue is that I don't have the headlight working, the park light working, or the tail light. The indicators work, the horn works, and the ignition switch definitely worked.
All of the wiring and switches are fine, I checked their resistances and what wires are connected as per the wiring diagram, and they're all good.
I think the issue lies in that there is a terminal on the RHS switchgear (the C2 terminal, a yellow wire) which I think should have 6V, but doesn't. This wire originates back at the alternator.
If you trace through the wiring diagram, you can see that this wire (the C2 wire) goes off to the LHS switchgear, through the high/low beam selector, off to the headlight, throught the bulb and to ground. Which indicates to me that the C2 wire definitely supplies the 6V.
Like I said before, though, this wire originates at the alternator, heads off through the main wiring harness to get hooked up to the RHS switchgear. Herein lies the rub - the factory workshop manual also says that there should be continuity between this wire on the alternator harness (when disconnected for the rest of the wiring loom) and ground (well, reistance of 0.3 to 0.5 ohms). Which kinda to me doesn't make me think that it will ever have 6V.
So what the hell am I missing, am I just with the major fail when it comes to understanding this, or is it more likely that something like the reg/rect is completely toast and I have to go digging through my parts for another one?
I'd test the reg/rect but being a lovely semiconductor it depends on the instrument you use to test it and my multimeter in diode mode doesn't work the same.
Oh, and I can't tell you if it charges fine, cause I haven't got the motor going. Which is fair enough, given it's been apart for 3 years, and not running for at least 5 more before that... and I don't have a spark plug that fits
.
I guess the final question is does anyone have any advice as to the best way to work out what might be wrong, or, advice on how I should tackle it to really nail down the problem? I mean, I guess another option is the alternator is toast, and I have to buy a new one which would be a bit of a PITA but not the end of the world.
For those that want to see the rest of what I've done, which basically involved pulling the entire bike down until you couldn't disassemble it any further, then rebuilding it, check out
http://www.wenga.net/ellingly/posties/ which'll show you all the other stuff. It's getting there, I'm a lot further than that webpage suggests. I just want the wiring to work before I commit to trying to start it and get the bike roadworthied...