M1100 problems, need help

Started by amcloud, April 02, 2009, 05:24:34 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

amcloud

So, I was installing a 14t front sprocket on my 1100.  I had previously done this on my 696 and it was a breeze, 20 mins and I was done.  I moved the rear wheel forward to put slack in the chain, removed the slave cylinder, began removing the rearset, and I ran into a problem.  There are 3 bolts holding the rearset on, one main bolt torqued at 55Nm, and two smaller #8 hex bolts I believe 35Nm but I don't have the values in front of me.  Anyway, the main bolt was fine, but there was very very little torque on the second hex bolt and when removed a few aluminum threads came out with it.  This is a brand new bike, I have never previously touched the rearset.  It apprears either the factory or dealership, whoever assembles the rearsets to the bike, used the wrong length bolt, as it is only long enough to engage a few threads, and stripped the front of the hole.  The hole is threaded all the way through, probably close to 3/4".  I know it can be fixed, but my concern is I did not cause this problem.  What do I do?  I have a good relationship with my local shop and I obtained all necessary torque values before I began.  I always use a torque wrench for everything.  I am not a beginner wrench turner.  I have a feeling they will try to pin this on me, but I did nothing but remove the bolt and out came some threads with it.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.
M696 - sold, M1100s - gold Speedy kukri pressure plate, black Speedy halflife cover, Pazzo shorty racing levers, 14 tooth front, CRG ls, Speedy sliders all around, Leo Vince exhaust.

ducpainter

Quote from: amcloud on April 02, 2009, 05:24:34 AM
So, I was installing a 14t front sprocket on my 1100.  I had previously done this on my 696 and it was a breeze, 20 mins and I was done.  I moved the rear wheel forward to put slack in the chain, removed the slave cylinder, began removing the rearset, and I ran into a problem.  There are 3 bolts holding the rearset on, one main bolt torqued at 55Nm, and two smaller #8 hex bolts I believe 35Nm but I don't have the values in front of me.  Anyway, the main bolt was fine, but there was very very little torque on the second hex bolt and when removed a few aluminum threads came out with it.  This is a brand new bike, I have never previously touched the rearset.  It apprears either the factory or dealership, whoever assembles the rearsets to the bike, used the wrong length bolt, as it is only long enough to engage a few threads, and stripped the front of the hole.  The hole is threaded all the way through, probably close to 3/4".  I know it can be fixed, but my concern is I did not cause this problem.  What do I do?  I have a good relationship with my local shop and I obtained all necessary torque values before I began.  I always use a torque wrench for everything.  I am not a beginner wrench turner.  I have a feeling they will try to pin this on me, but I did nothing but remove the bolt and out came some threads with it.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Most likely the wrong bolt was used at the factory. IIRC the rearsets are not dealer installed.

Get a longer bolt and don't worry about it.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



amcloud

Where would be the best place to locate a similar bolt? dealership? hardware store? bolt catalog?  You don't think I should inquire as to why the wrong bolt was used?, or why it was over-torqued or cross-threaded by the factory?  I don't feel this is a problem I should be dealing with on a brand new bike.
M696 - sold, M1100s - gold Speedy kukri pressure plate, black Speedy halflife cover, Pazzo shorty racing levers, 14 tooth front, CRG ls, Speedy sliders all around, Leo Vince exhaust.

ducpainter

Quote from: amcloud on April 02, 2009, 06:30:22 AM
Where would be the best place to locate a similar bolt? dealership? hardware store? bolt catalog?  You don't think I should inquire as to why the wrong bolt was used?, or why it was over-torqued or cross-threaded by the factory?  I don't feel this is a problem I should be dealing with on a brand new bike.

Then take it to the dealer, or find out if they'll give you the right one.

From your initial description it didn't sound like it was crossed or stripped. A bit of aluminum coming out with a screw isn't always indicative of a problem.

IMO it's a simple mistake made on an assembly line and not worth getting too wound up over.

As always...YMMV
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



amcloud

the first few threads of the hole are stripped, the bolt was only long enough to pull the first few threads.  I believe  the wrong bolt was used, too short, and it only pulled a couple threads and when torqued it pulled the threads.
M696 - sold, M1100s - gold Speedy kukri pressure plate, black Speedy halflife cover, Pazzo shorty racing levers, 14 tooth front, CRG ls, Speedy sliders all around, Leo Vince exhaust.

Howie

If only a couple of threads are gone and you can start a new bolt in the hole by hand, you will be fine.  If you can't start the bolt by hand, chasing with a tap will fix that. 

gearhead

  Makes you wonder how many units are affected. Could you please include a photo of the assembly so I can identify and point this out when I pick mine up at the dealer.

Raux


DucHead

Quote from: howie on April 02, 2009, 06:55:55 AM
If only a couple of threads are gone and you can start a new bolt in the hole by hand, you will be fine.  If you can't start the bolt by hand, chasing with a tap will fix that. 

+1
'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"

Duck-Stew

What I would do:  Notify the dealership so they can make a log of it for DNA's purposes and just get a longer bolt especially if there's that many threads available still.
Bike-less Portuguese immigrant enjoying life.