over heated rear brakes

Started by chirrin, May 11, 2009, 07:36:58 PM

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chirrin

i got a ducati monster 2000 and i took a friend to home on the bike, then rear brake star to get hot together with the rotor and i smelled the tipical brake pad smell and suddenly the rear brake stop working and i had to brake with the front brake, is there a posibility that the brakes broke from the inside cause the heat? or most common it was already getting bad and the heating of the rotor caused by the friction was the end? i dissasemble all the brake system nothing seams to be  bad the only thing i noticed that when a press the master cilinder oil doesnt come out with enough pressure. thanks for advice

Spidey

Did you try it again after it cooled down?  You probably just temporarily cooked the rotor and the brake fluid.  I'd just put it all back together and replace the fluid and see if there is still a problem.

BTW, why are you using the rear brakes that much?  It sounds like it was your exclusive brake while riding two-up.  That's not a good idea.  Your primary brakes are your front brakes.  There are two discs of much larger diameter than your rear brakes with two (as opposed to one) calipers that are much more powerful than your rear caliper.  And the physics of weight distribution means that the vast majority of your stopping power comes from the front.
Occasionally AFM #702  My stuff:  The M1000SS, a mashed r6, Vino 125, the Blonde, some rugrats, yuppie cage, child molester van, bourbon.

chirrin

probably thats what happened because the fluid looks like a darker color but i wasnt using the rear brake i think they got stock cause the rotor r were worn due to a prior bended rear axel that i just fixed i will change the oil and let u knoe what happened than u

chirrin

hi i put everything back together and i put new brake fluid and bleed it and is not working, the brake pedal doesnt get hard after bleeden and it doesnt press, when i look at the caliper and press the brake pedal the pads star to get together but very weak, it doent press and when i bleed it does like when u open the water facet and air is inside but never get the smooth squirt, it keep sounding like air, and the brake pedal still lossen it doesnt get hard, i pump it several times but nothing. some other test i can run? or i can say the master cilinder is blown? what could be? thank u im a little worry casue is my only transpor and  got to go to school tomorrow jejejej thanks guys

Howie

Is the caliper mounted on the top of the rotor or the bottom?  If the caliper is mounted on the bottom you will need to remove the caliper, place something (a piece of plywood or metal of about the same thickness of the rotor will do) between the pads and hold the caliper so the bleeder faces up to get the air out.

chirrin

ho thank u very much it looks like is working ill go and test it ill tell u how did go i aprecciate it

bigiain

Can I suggest you pull the rubber boot off the master cylinder and check the pushrod.

The one on my '99 M750 is steel, and rusted up to the point of binding a year or two back. I now slime it with boat trailer wheel bearing grease (a super sticky water resistant grease) and try to remember to pull it out and check/clean/regrease it every year or so.

big

corey

doing your own brake work is always a rush :)
When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...

corndog67

Practice with the front brake.   I very, very seldom use the rear.

Drunken Monkey

I use the rear brake about once a month. To clean off the cobwebs from my rear rotor  ;D
I own several motorcycles. I have owned lots of motorcycles. And have bolted and/or modified lots of crap to said motorcycles...

DucHead

+1 on little use of the rear brake -- mostly for low speed/parking lot stopping and sitting at traffic lights.
'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"