Sprocket/Chain questions

[tonkoshala]

What is the best light weight front sprocket for the S4? I already have a vortex 41T for the rear so I'll be staying with a 15T. Wanting to get the full feel for my BSTs.

Also not real sure what chain to use. I've been looking for a couple of days now, but can't make my mind up. Not wanting to spend too much guessing a middle of the road price range.

PS I'm fairly new to riding 4 years or so...I have stretched the last two chains (DiD) I have gotten only after a couple of hundred miles....what's the cause here?

(maybe should have posted this in mod section?)

[ducpainter]

New chains will "stretch" initially...not really stretching...more of an initial wear.

After that the wear should basically stop.

When the chain reaches the end of its' life the "stretching" and chain adjustment will become very frequent.

[ScottRNelson]

What is the best light weight front sprocket for the S4?

You couldn't possibly save more than a few ounces of weight on a front sprocket no matter what you get.  If anything, you should be looking for the strongest one - or at least go for best value.  I saved a few bucks by buying JT sprockets from CA-Cycleworks and am completely happy with them.

You can save quite a bit more weight on the rear sprocket, but even though hardened aluminum sprockets can wear well, they can also wear out quickly if you have any issues.  I broke the retaining clip on my front sprocket when I had an aluminum rear sprocket and the front sprocket slid over a bit.  The aluminum rear sprocket was pretty much wrecked within a few hundred miles before I realized what had happened.  A steel sprocket wouldn't have shown any wear at all.

Here's the lighter aluminum sprocket under the stronger steel replacement:

[corndog67]

Also not real sure what chain to use. I've been looking for a couple of days now, but can't make my mind up. Not wanting to spend too much guessing a middle of the road price range.

I have stretched the last two chains (DiD) I have gotten only after a couple of hundred miles....what's the cause here?

(maybe should have posted this in mod section?)

OK, middle of the road price doesn't equal top line performance.   I just ordered a DID ZVM for my S4 yesterday.  The total for just  the chain was pretty close to $200.   If I spent $3500 on a set of BST's, I wouldn't scrimp a couple hundred bucks for a less than top of the line chain, but that is just me.  In another thread, I mentioned my experiences with these chains vs other chains that I've used.   That DID is the very best chain they sell.  It lasted for a long time on a 550 lb, 125 hp bike, with lots of wheelies and stuff like the, and after the initial adjustment after breaking it in, went 20,000 more without any adjustment, and then I sold the bike.   

Are you putting new sprockets on with the new chain?   Any wear at all on old sprockets will kill the life of a new chain.  Same with the other way around.   And I'm using a Stealth steel outer rear, probably at least 3 times the life of any aluminum rear sprocket.  I'm very cautious about chains and sprockets, I killed a dirtbike by breaking an old chain and it getting thrown through the cases around the countershaft. 

[tonkoshala]

OK, middle of the road price doesn't equal top line performance.   I just ordered a DID ZVM for my S4 yesterday.  The total for just  the chain was pretty close to $200.   If I spent $3500 on a set of BST's, I wouldn't scrimp a couple hundred bucks for a less than top of the line chain, but that is just me.  In another thread, I mentioned my experiences with these chains vs other chains that I've used.   That DID is the very best chain they sell.  It lasted for a long time on a 550 lb, 125 hp bike, with lots of wheelies and stuff like the, and after the initial adjustment after breaking it in, went 20,000 more without any adjustment, and then I sold the bike.   

Are you putting new sprockets on with the new chain?   Any wear at all on old sprockets will kill the life of a new chain.  Same with the other way around.   And I'm using a Stealth steel outer rear, probably at least 3 times the life of any aluminum rear sprocket.  I'm very cautious about chains and sprockets, I killed a dirtbike by breaking an old chain and it getting thrown through the cases around the countershaft. 

Thanks for the advice. I found a DID 520ZVM2 110 link for $135 online a few mins ago. Is there a difference other than the color between the black and gold link chains?

I am assuming my old chain wore wrong because I did not give enough time to break in properly. The tension was tighter than not at certain points when I would adjust it. That is what I meant when I was talking about it "stretching."

Are you running 525 or did you go to the 520 chain?

[tonkoshala]

You couldn't possibly save more than a few ounces of weight on a front sprocket no matter what you get.  If anything, you should be looking for the strongest one - or at least go for best value.  I saved a few bucks by buying JT sprockets from CA-Cycleworks and am completely happy with them.

You can save quite a bit more weight on the rear sprocket, but even though hardened aluminum sprockets can wear well, they can also wear out quickly if you have any issues.  I broke the retaining clip on my front sprocket when I had an aluminum rear sprocket and the front sprocket slid over a bit.  The aluminum rear sprocket was pretty much wrecked within a few hundred miles before I realized what had happened.  A steel sprocket wouldn't have shown any wear at all.

Here's the lighter aluminum sprocket under the stronger steel replacement:

Do the weight savings on the rear not increase performance? Or is the increase so little that it is not worth ir?

[corndog67]

Well, I had a 525 set of sprockets just waiting or I probably would have converted to 520, because I can get the 520 ZVM for about $110.   Another thing I check when I am installing new sprockets is the radial runout of the sprocket (is it moving up and down as the wheel turns?),  I check it without the chain on it.  I actually got a sprocket a long time ago from some company who I can't recall right now that ran out over 3/32 of and inch (.093).   It had been machined off center, you could measure it with a pair of calipers.  

As for breaking in properly, I just beat on it how I normally ride, usually they need 1 adjustment, and then seem to "take a set" and don't need to be adjusted again until they start wearing out.  

I don't know of any difference between gold and black chains.  

I think I posted this the other day, but here it is again.

http://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

[ScottRNelson]

Do the weight savings on the rear not increase performance? Or is the increase so little that it is not worth it?

On an ST2, with hard bags full of duct tape, wire, rags, first aid kits, tire repair kits and other stuff, a few ounces different on a rear sprocket is impossible to detect.  The only reason I got the aluminum sprocket in the first place is because California Cycleworks didn't have any 44-tooth rear sprockets, so I gave up and ordered one from the local Cycle Gear.  I didn't know I was getting aluminum until I picked it up a few days later.  I didn't get aluminum on purpose and will not use another one.