Torque setting for front sprocket, 2008 S2R

[hillbillypolack]

Looking to change my front sprocket on an S2R 1000.  It's got the "bigger" nut with the crimped washer beneath it.  So, I have a few questions.

1) for re-assembly, the torque setting isn't shown in the 2006 mechanic's CD.  What is the proper torque setting?

2) do I need a new washer below that nut?  Or can I flip it over for re-use?

3)  When removing that nut, what's the best way to keep the countershaft for turning?

Thanks, fellas.

[mxwinky]

According to my shop manual (and the procedure I used when changing the sprocket):  Engage first gear, have a buddy step on the rear brake (not in the book, but better), knock back tab on lock washer, remove nut (electric impact gun made this easy) then re-fit new sprocket, you can re-use the lockwasher, then tighten the nut to 186nm.  The online converter I just checked says it's 137 ft-lbs.  I also used a tiny dab of blue loctite, just to be sure. 

[He Man]

if your bike is still low miles annd super clean, a breaker bar will be fine. If not then youll need a impact gun to get that off. good luck ( i never removed mine becasue i coudlnt get a braker bar that long)

[hypurone]

According to my shop manual (and the procedure I used when changing the sprocket):  Engage first gear, have a buddy step on the rear brake (not in the book, but better), knock back tab on lock washer, remove nut (electric impact gun made this easy) then re-fit new sprocket, you can re-use the lockwasher, then tighten the nut to 186nm.  The online converter I just checked says it's 137 ft-lbs.  I also used a tiny dab of blue loctite, just to be sure. 

I would recommend not doing the step highlighted above. expecially with an impact driver. Really don't want that kind of hammering on the gear dogs and bearings in the tranny. Just having someone hold the rear brake will do just fine. 

[aaronb]

yeah, i left mine in neutral and had my gf hold the brake, came right off with a breaker bar.  the engine's compression will do very little compaired to the brake, why stress the tranny?

[mxwinky]

First off, that's small beans compared to the torque loaded on the dogs when shifting and accelerating with the full load of the bike and rider and the engine screaming away so don't worry about it.  Second of all, the Ducati factory manual says to engage first gear so don't think I'm the nutjob who came up with that technique.  That being said, the rear brake will do the trick just fine so whatever tickles your torque wrench.

[hypurone]

First off, that's small beans compared to the torque loaded on the dogs when shifting and accelerating with the full load of the bike and rider and the engine screaming away so don't worry about it.  Second of all, the Ducati factory manual says to engage first gear so don't think I'm the nutjob who came up with that technique.  That being said, the rear brake will do the trick just fine so whatever tickles your torque wrench.

It's not so much the amount of force here as the hammering effect I'm referring to. When you've got the tranny held in place and hammer against it, it is a lot diff than the engine power being applied. But as with anything, it is a personal preference of how one wants to "care" for their beast. 

[DarkDucati]

With respect to not being able to find a long breaker bar as a separate issue, a nice tip I picked up from another person was to take whatever breaker bar you have and extend it by using a piece of pipe 2 or 3 feet long to slip over the end of the breaker bar. It's a cheap effective way to extend the bar and thanks to physics it makes the job nice n easy.