Cyclecat top triple and LSL clip-ons

[Bizzarrini]

Hi Guys,

I guess this is a really old problem, and probably already massively discussed, but I couldn't find a direct answer (and searching the old board is a real PITA). I bought a Cyclecat top triple and some LSL clip-ons (the ones with a 1.5" rise), and I am planning on installing these babies ASAP (clip-ons under the TT). I assume I'm gonna run into some problems, wrt clearance among others. I have the coffin reservoirs ('94 M900), and an SS front brake line (no idea about the length though). I'd like to know how to remove the stock items (TT and handlebars), and what problems I'll face. Do I need any new parts? What tools to I need? Should I use grease and/or Loctite when assembling stuff? And do you recommend combining this operation with a lowering of the instrument cluster and headlight? Or should I do that at a later stage?

Any tips?

Thanks for your input!
Cheers!

[Clyde Frog]

Here's what I came across during a similar mod. Differences being... my bikes an 07 S2R and I have vortex clip-ons (no rise).

The coffin reservoirs were a massive PITA. It was impossible to set the bars in a usable position without lowering the headlight. Although in your case, I believe the rise on the LSL clip-ons may save you from this headache. The rise should provide the reservoirs with enough clearance over the headlight bracket.

Personally, I didn't have any issues with the brake and clutch lines but, I have read numerous posts where the lines posed a problem.

I found a rubber mallet to be quite helpful in nudging off the top triple. And a can of compressed air made removal of the left grip a breeze. pun intended.

If your planning on lowering the headlight and gauge cluster anyway... you might as well go ahead and do it now. Even if I wasn't forced to lower mine, in order to reroute the wiring, I would have had to disassemble it all anyway.

[herm]

i recently put a speedymoto top triple and the 1.5" LSL clip ons on my s2r1k. major PITA!!
i have the medicine cup reservours, and everything just fit.
i also lowered the gauges and the headlight, but that may have compounded my hardship??

[MotoPsycho]

If you put the bar clamps above the the triple, you'll have to raise the dash an inch. If you put them below the triple, you'll have to drop the headlight an inch. Either way you'll have to find or make some spacers to get the coffin  resiviors out far enough to clear the bar clamps. I've been there and done that.

[spinned]

I did this on my S2R1000 and everything fit.  I think you would just tear it down and mock it up.  It seems pretty daunting but after you have done it a couple times you can actually strip it down in about 45 minutes.  To pull the top triple off, I have to release some weight on the front forks and then a light tap with a rubber mallet will take it off.  I could actually pull mine off by hand by wiggling the front tire forward and back.  You will probably need the rubber mallet to bull the U-bracket down as well.  I think it makes the project easier if you remove the u-bracket, but maybe it will all line up so you don't have to do this.  No real big deal to take it off though.

[Bizzarrini]

Ok, cool! Thanks for all your help guys!

About the lowering of headlight and instrument cluster, I guess there are several ways to do this, but what is the easiest way (no welding)?

Cheers!

[MotoPsycho]

I'm not using the factory headlight, but still use everything else. What I did was measured the holes center to center on the brackets and used 1" x .125" aluminum flatbar to lower the brackets on the "U" shaped piece. What I did was drop it down one hole if that makes sense.

BUT, you have to be really careful because the rubber grommets can get cut into by the bushings that  go through them. My headlight fairing was a little too heavy for it and the added leverage on the brackets torqued the rubber grommets enough it started to cut through them. I  ended up drilling holes through the brackets to the "U" shaped tabs and solid mounted it instead.

If I were to do this again, I'd get dedicated headlight mounting brackets that clamp to the fork tubes, but I improvised and used what I had on hand.

IF you decide to put the bar clamps under the triples, you will have to lower the headlight brackets, or at least notch the tops of them out a little for clearance.

You learn A LOT of stuff when you take a bike apart abd put it back together. Things go certain ways for certain reasons.

[Bizzarrini]

Hey Grubby!

Thanks for the tips! I was also thinking about the addition of the strips for lowering the light. Glad to see this seems to work! For some reason I can't see the pictures you added. Any idea why this can be?

[Clyde Frog]

About the lowering of headlight and instrument cluster, I guess there are several ways to do this, but what is the easiest way (no welding)?

I also, looked everywhere for the "no welding" solution... To no avail, though. Outside of buying a new headlight mount there doesn't seem to be any options. Here's a shot of one of those options ...


I ended up taking my u-bracket to a bicycle shop to get the old welds cut and rewelded into their new position.

I'm borrowing the following from a member over at TOB. It was a huge help to me. I've also attached his great hand drawn schematic of the lowered gauges and a great pic of the before and after altered u-bracket.

The following belongs to Bigred916 ....

This isnt the easiest way to drop your headlight,but, as far as I know no-one else has also lowered the nose fairing with it.
I wanted the dropped look for the front as I was fitting clip ons and think it makes the whole bike look meaner and more streamlined.
I started with a spare U-bracket just in case I messed it up
I cut through the welds holding the bracket to the u frame and slid them down a bit to where I though was an OK position, I then had them rewelded locally by a specialist alloy welder,didn't have to be too neat as its not seen, the U frame itself was cut shorter by the width of the clocks,all the fittings then go straight back on normally.
In the photo of the U-bracket you can see how much lower the fairing bracket on the right is from stock one on the left,ignore the sensor bracket as it was being used to hold the brackets in position
I had to use machine screws to secure the clocks as I couldn't find hex bolts or allen bolts long and narrow enough,these can be hidden anyway using black plastic screw caps, these then screw through the top triple,then a plumbers washer means you wont have to trim the clocks plastic to get it flush with the bottom side of the triple, a bit of tubing around the screw also helped secure the clocks.
Then I refitted the nylon plugs and secured them against the clocks/sensor frame with small nyloc nut.I intend to ditch the sensor frame soon as you dont need it,just mount the air sensor somewhere convenient instead
The shortened U frame will slip over the nyloc nut and be secured by the original nylon plugs above it and be attached normally at the bottom.
I didnt photograph this bit but have included a drawing of how the lot fit back together.
Looking at the finished pic I will now dismantle it all this winter and get the whole lot painted or anodised black.
The biggest problems are accomodating the hoses and wires as the space behind the light is very tight, I might do a few small adjustment to free up some space but it all seems to work in the meantime.