having the front axle drilled for adjustable forks

[booger]

If anyone has any tips for doing this, I'd like to know, like how far from the ends to put the centerlines of the holes?, and what diameter? Also, I have a drill press, but would going to a machine shop be a better idea?

[Two dogs]

I had mine done at a machine shop , didn't want to risk fuccccccccccccccccccccc#n it up
but that just me you may be up to it

[DarkStaR]

Either way, you'll need to make sure the surface area around the hole is nice and smooth.  Otherwise, it makes is a bit difficult to install/remove the axle...and it scratches up all the ID surfaces as you do so.

OEM axles have the holes slightly counter sunk.

[ReapeR696]

I'm not an expert but if i was going to do this mod this is how i would approach it. If you go the route of drilling it yourself i would get a caliper if you don't already have one and measure from the outer edge of your fork to the center of the hole on the underside of the fork to get an idea the approximate measurement (in mm's) that you will need in order to template the hole on the axle. It may also be of use to insert the axle in to the fork and then insert a pencil, sharpie or other marking device in to the hole where your screwdriver will need to access through the axle and mark it that way, then verify it with the calipers so you know your spot on. The next thing i would do it find a way to secure the axle to your drill press so that it has no play at all. Referencing the size the hole needs to be, grab a box of drill bits and insert the non sharpened end into the hole on the fork to get the right size. I would suggest drilling a small pilot hole first and then working up to the right size bit in order to get the hole as perfect as possible and not cause the bit to drift off center (larger bits have a tendency to do this if there is not a pilot hole to align them). Lastly, ensure that your drill press is perfectly at both the bit/chuck and the surface the axle is resting on. Then do what darkstar suggested and ensure that there are no metal burs around the area drilled by either using a metal file or a slight counter sink.. My 2 cents.

[suzyj]

This is my plan for when I put my 998 forks on my 695.

I've already measured the distance from the side of the forks to the adjuster - it's 22mm in each case.  That's the distance from the non-threaded end to the hole.  However on the threaded end of the axle, I need to measure how far the axle protrudes from the outside face of the fork leg with it all assembled, and add that.  That means a test fit, which I'll do when I'm ready to roll.

Here's the tool I'll use to start the hole:



It's called a centering bit.  Unlike other drill bits it doesn't wander - it just puts a hole exactly where the chuck points.

So the plan is to measure, mark one side, clamp the axle on a V-block in a drill press with the notches on the end vertical, then position so that the drill will pass through my mark and directly through the middle of the axle, then start with the centering drill, and work my way up to ~10mm.  The hole only has to be big enough to allow access for a screwdriver for my forks.

Then finally I'll run a deburrer around the holes and it'll be ready to go.

[DarkStaR]

If you can wait till this afternoon, I have a spare axle I can measure up...

[badgalbetty]

I did mine the old fashioned way. Just stuck a sharpie up through the bottom of the fork and put a dot on the axle. Stuck it in a vice center punched it and then into a drill press for holes. Cleaned of after with a quick bit of filing, takes about 5 minutes. I am not into a complicated life, but one that works for me.Carry on.
BGB

[ReapeR696]

That centering bit is THE BUSINESS!!! I've never seen one of those before but damn that makes a lot of sense, what a great tool! I'm gonna have to procure myself a few of those just in case....  Great information Suzyj!!! 

[Raux]

which forks are you using?

[Mr Earl]

My M800 front axle came with holes for adjustment (even though there wasn't any on the crappy Marzocchis), and the S2R800 forks I bought once came with an axle with holes.  Why not just buy a proper used axle and avoid all the work and drama?

[DarkStaR]

S2R1000 Axle:

Hole Size = 8mm

Small Side = 22mm (hole center to end)
Big Side = 33mm (hole center to end)

[booger]

I'm using a pair of 998 Showas. Looked for a used axle on evilBay and all I found were bent ones from that Imperial Sportbike guy that's always trying to sell useless broken parts. Seems more drama involved in trying to locate a good used one than just drilling the one I have out. Trying to stick to a budget as well. Perhaps someday I'll just spring for a bling Ti one.
Still a ways to go until I get this bike set up the way I want it. However now I want a 796. Really kinda do.

[suzyj]

Just did this on my axle.  It was surprisingly hard work.  I ended up using a mill rather than a drill press, as that allowed me to locate the end drill more accurately.  The axle is stainless, so i used plenty of cutting fluid.  There's a step in the inside on the fat end right where you want to drill the hole, so I flipped the axle over for the fat end and did both holes from the outside.

From my measurements, the hole in the fat end is 22mm from the end.  The hole in the threaded end is 31mm from the end (the axle protrudes 9mm from the side of the fork on this side).  I used an 8mm drill.

[Speeddog]

That step in the axle is the problem, at least as far as doing a really clean job of it with a drill press or freehand.
A mill makes it much easier.

Center drills are great.

OEM axles bend pretty easily, so straight ones will be a bit rare.
I've never searched for used ones, always bought new, so YMMV.