How-To: Front Wheel Removal & Installation

Started by Spidey, August 29, 2008, 02:57:26 PM

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johnc

ciao spidey  -

i don't get it ... can you please derby this entire thread one more time?   [roll]

victor441

thanks!  will need to do this soon to change tires.  Would add that if spreading the brake shoes is difficult opening the bleed nipple slightly makes it easy and you only lose a small amount of fluid in the process, though the MC level should be checked when everything is back together....

He Man

you should have no probelms at all when you are moving those pistons with the brake disc or screw driver. if you do, you have a big problem with your braking system.
Quote from: johnc on September 02, 2008, 11:27:42 AM
ciao spidey  -

i don't get it ... can you please derby this entire thread one more time?   [roll]

wheres the first time?

victor441

#18
Quote from: He Man on October 19, 2009, 08:43:51 PM
you should have no probelms at all when you are moving those pistons with the brake disc or screw driver. if you do, you have a big problem with your braking system.

ummm  not necessarily, it can take some effort, especially if they need to be moved a good bit to install new pads or discs....this is why tools (disc pad spreaders) are sold for the purpose....if you don't have one opening the bleed nipple makes pushing the pads and caliper pistons back much easier.


Howie

Opening the bleeder nipple is also a good way to remove the worst of the brake fluid instead of pushing it back into the system.  This technique also avoids the problem of running out of room for fluid in the reservoir, a major cause of having trouble pushing the pistons back.  If you use this method do top off the reservoir before pumping the brakes.  Do I go through all this work to R&R a front wheel on my bike? Nope. 

He Man

#20
Quote from: victor441 on October 20, 2009, 06:16:42 AM
ummm  not necessarily, it can take some effort, especially if they need to be moved a good bit to install new pads or discs....this is why tools (disc pad spreaders) are sold for the purpose....if you don't have one opening the bleed nipple makes pushing the pads and caliper pistons back much easier.



I agree with you that it can take some effort to move it a good bit, but that tool is made for a car with larger pistons and alot of fluid that needs to be displaced just to move it a few mm of brake pad, where a bike has a very small piston area and very little fluid to move.

Quote from: howie on October 20, 2009, 08:43:50 AM
This technique also avoids the problem of running out of room for fluid in the reservoir, a major cause of having trouble pushing the pistons back. 

+1 if no one really ever thought about it. But the fluid goes back into the cup and if theres no space for fluid (or your doing work to compress the air in the reservoir) then the piston isnt going anywhere.

Spidey

Look, the fact of the matter is that for a front wheel change, you shouldn't need anything as sophisticated as what victor441 posted.  Nor should you need to open the bleeder on your calipers to release hydraulic pressure.  If you need to open up the brake pads to get the calipers back on the rotor after reinstalling yoru front wheel, the pads can be pushed back with a large flathead screwdriver (as shown in the Tutorial), a piece of wood, or almost anything that acts as a lever.  The less sharp the implement, the better.

If you're in a position where the brake pads are really stuck in place and you can't wiggle the calipers back onto the rotor, skip this Tutorial and head over to the Tech forum for some assistance from the DMF experts.   [thumbsup]

[moto]
Occasionally AFM #702  My stuff:  The M1000SS, a mashed r6, Vino 125, the Blonde, some rugrats, yuppie cage, child molester van, bourbon.

junior varsity

This is all very helpful.

unless you have a solid axle bike!

Solid axle bike steps for removal:

front stand.

remove brake calipers, spidey's zip ties is a great idea.

loosen pinch bolts.

pray to zeus you can undo the axle. its threaded into the other side of the fork kinda. The end you are going to tangle with has a hexagonal hole, fill it with especially large hex head socket end. Its a 12mm if I recall correctly. You might very well have to get angry with it to get it loose.

Support wheel with one hand and use your other two hands to wiggle the axle out. prod out it from the other side with a dowel of some time. or a drift.  your finger is not a last resort, that's a horrible idea.