07 S2R1K electrical woes

[scooterd145]

Hi, went on my weekly group ride Wed evening. On way home noticed dash lights (background) pulsing and blinkers not working. I noticed earlier the clock was wrong...

Integrated brake/turn signals been on for a couple years. replaced a resistor in March. New front blinkers 2 weeks ago that are LED.

Put bike on batt tender when got home and left for diagnostics in morning.

Now: right side dash light works but VERY dim (no pulsing now either). Pulled every connector appart and looked at and pushed back together. Replaced after market front blinkers with stock ones. Did left handlebar switch test per manual (Green to orange and grey to orange) with normal results. Checking at blinker ends (with them disconnected) ground side good, power side 8 (can't remember if it was hundred or thousand) ohms. Same test but dash main cable disconnected no resistance. Thinking some kind of short? Is flasher in the dash?

Forgot to mention bike runs fine, the gauges and "dummy" lights work fine. The directional arrow on the dash works fine. Don't hear a particular click or anything though when flashing. I pulled and checked each fuse and removed and replaced the 2 relays (switched places).
Please don't be a bad dash unit...

[suzyj]

The flasher isn't done with a relay, it's done with the micro in the gauge unit, and switched via an ITS711L1 quad high-side mosfet chip in the gauge unit (20 pin surface mount part).  So no click.

Given that other functions within the gauges do work, but the backlighting and indicators have gone, I'd be looking long and hard at the gauge unit.

Could it have had water in it?

[scooterd145]

Yeah, I'm thinking my next step is to take a look inside the gauge pod. Have never had it opened. Anything I should know about before attempting to open? Negative on the water, only "wash" the bike with detail spray occasionally and I wax it weekly so no need for water. Stays covered while not in use, etc.

[lofty55]

Ive had bad luck with my cluster too.

You wanna be careful opening it so you dont damage the gasket. Other than that, its just some screws. You might wanna silicone it when you put it back together.

I opened mine and it looked very clean. They are sealed well from factory. In my case though, opening it didnt help. I still blame my problem on a faulty cluster.  My backlighting and running light just quit one day.

[scooterd145]

Lofty, did you end up replacing your cluster? If so what is involved?

BTW, thanks for the replies on this holiday weekend   

[lofty55]

I never did get it to work correctly. When i tried to measure voltage down the running light wire, i got nothing. I measured it at the back of the bike, then near the cluster. I spliced into the running light wire from the battery (12V) and it came back on. Then i noticed my backlights were on also. I wired in a switch and now have to turn it on as well as the key.

So basically, the "always on" lighting part of the cluster malfunctioned. After this happened, im pretty sure the running light and backlights are connected in the cluster. The head light park mode also turns on when i flip my ghetto switch on without the key.

Something went bad inside there. Sorry, i don't know whats involved in replacing the cluster but i'm sure someone does. You could also try a search.

I think red keys are involved. New cluster plus you have to have someone program it to your key and/or ECU is my guess.

[scooterd145]

Thanks for the info, I may have to rig up an old fashioned flasher to get my blinkers back. Don't mind the dashlights so much, since all the dummy lights and gauges are working...

[scooterd145]

Update, went for a ride this afternoon. Looks like clock only says 0:00 now and the trip meter is not functioning properly now. cr@p looks like the problem is getting worse...

[Bill in OKC]

Have you tried lightly cleaning the connectors on the back of the instruments?  Maybe some wd40 on the pins.  Bad connections could be causing problems if they got wet and oxidized some. 

[scooterd145]

ok, just an update in case someone ever searches for this type of problem. It was actaully a BAD FUSE and bad connection in the fuse block. The fuse looked correct but with an ohmeter connected and a little wiggling you could see it would come disconnected. The worst part was the backup fuse was BAD TOO, believe it or not. I had switched the fuses once before and had ruled them out as the cause. for some reason my Uncle thought I should one out for a brand new fuse and it WORKED. Everything has functioned correctly since. I did pull the fuse block apart and clean it up and tighten all of the connections...

[battlecry]

Glad you caught it.  You may want to open the connectors and fuses and lightly coat them with dielectric grease.  This will not help you if the connectors are hosed, but will keep away corrosion gremlins from developing in the future.  You should be able to get a small tube at any auto parts place.