$64000 Question...

[TAftonomos]

Rings should be free enough to spin around on the piston, and consequently they may one day align up or not.  Spacing them 120 for assembly is fine, but opening up a motor and finding them all inline doesn't mean anything....

I took off both engine side covers  and all was good on the flywheel side but on the clutch side I was able to wiggle the clutch basket and the big primary gear a bit. Is this normal?

BINGO

The big nut needs to be tightened down.....

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

pompetta, TAftonomos, Thanks guys, I'm gonna take off the basket to check the bearing then tighten er  all down.

Edit: so the clutch drum is tight but the basket is slightly loose. Its either the inner ring or bearing. Is there any freeplay allowed here?

[DucHead]

pompetta, TAftonomos, Thanks guys, I'm gonna take off the basket to check the bearing then tighten er  all down.

Edit: so the clutch drum is tight but the basket is slightly loose. Its either the inner ring or bearing. Is there any freeplay allowed here?

I seriously doubt it.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Tightened everything up to spec and put the cases back on. We'll see what happens tomorrow.


Is it possible that after 40K of hard riding that the innards need to just be re-shimmed?

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

So I think I finally fixed my friggin bike.

I got a great deal on an engine that has 300 miles on it for $300. It has a cracked engine mount, no stator and a cracked clutch cover. I replaced my heads, cylinders and pistons with the new ones, tuned up the bike and it's runnin pretty good. I think I need to ride it and get it fine tuned in order to be completely happy with it.

I may buy the 750 kit from FBF next year and use my old cylinders for the rebore and nikasil plating.

[He Man]

glad you "fixed the problem". I hate when you can find a solution and really the next best thign is to just chuck the motor.

hopefully this will solve everhythiugn for you

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

glad you "fixed the problem". I hate when you can find a solution and really the next best thign is to just chuck the motor.

hopefully this will solve everhythiugn for you

Thanks He Man, I hope so too! I think it was the heads that were the problem. I haven't explored into them further than taking them off the bike but I think the cams got badly worn when the exhaust valves receded into the head which pushed  up hard against the rockers which pushed against the cams with no valve clearance. I'm sure I'll be taking them apart so I can get a final confirmation.

At some point I'll probably get crack the cases on the other motor and have the engine mount fixed. Then put in my stator, switch clutch covers, put that in the bike and beat the shit out of that motor for another 40K miles. I'll probably take some time with that since the bike is running well and I can finally go out for some rides.

Thanks for everyone's input in helping me figure this thing out. Too bad I had to replace the heads, pistons and cylinders but for $300 I got an engine with 300 miles on it. I couldn't pass up the offer, it was just too good of a deal.

Anyway thanks again guys, this board rocks!!

[Duck-Stew]

The clutch basket on a wet-clutch bike is riveted onto the primary gear.  I've seen those rivets come loose and sound like a big-end bearing going out, rod-knock...something major-ly wrong down low.  I've only seen one go out, so not much experience there, but it could be your problem with the original engine.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

So I finally figured what the vibration through the mufflers and through the pegs was. Stu called it on page one of this thread. When I put the new engine in the bike I checked the valves and thought they were within spec. Technically they were, but really weren't. All closers were perfect, the openers on the horizontal intake and exhaust were both at .004". The openers on the vertical were both at .005". I figured cool everything's all good.

After trying to tune the bike every which way I couldn't get a totally smooth ride. I kept thinking about what Stu had mentioned on page one.

"If you did a valve adjustment recently and got a shim wrong, that could cause a vibration..."

I also remembered that DP had mentioned to someone in another thread that he needed to set their openers at .004" and .005".

So I went back in and adjusted the intake openers to .004" and the exhaust openers to .005", adjusted the TPS/TB Sync, set the CO to 5% and everything is right with the world again. It smoothed everything out, the bike runs and rides great.

What happened originally was that the engine overheated more than a few times to over 300 degrees. Over a period of 6000 miles it went from running pretty good to running like crap.The overheating led to the exhaust valve edges to tulip (that's what Ducpond said when they inspected them) and allowing the stem to be pushed further into the head than it was supposed to. When I finally took off the valve inspection covers the exhaust shims were pushing up hard on the rockers with no clearance at TDC. SO either the cam lobes got screwed up or the rockers did or both. I think it was the exhaust lobes on the cams. After that I could never get the bike to run right.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in over the many threads I've started to figure this all out. I have enjoyed learning so much about my bike and bikes in general.

Thanks to Stu and DP for getting me to that final step. I've had some injuries that have taken their toll on me this year but I'm feeling good and ready to put some major miles on this Fall/Winter season.

[Duck-Stew]

Thanks to Stu and DP for getting me to that final step. I've had some injuries that have taken their toll on me this year but I'm feeling good and ready to put some major miles on this Fall/Winter season.

  You're entirely welcome!