FCR install : question on intake boot

[koko64]

I also modified my airbox as you guys indicate.  Further, I split the battery tray from the rest of the airbox assembly so I can simply remove the battery box portion during valve adjustment rather than trying to work through/around it.  I install my airbox as Brad described, except I don't use silicone lubricant, I just load the box and work the boots on with a rounded awl.

I have considered a single pull system, but I'm not sure why I never installed one.  It would definitely take up less space around the instrument cluster and I'd have greater variety in choosing a throttle, I think.  Hummmmmm.

I know Rick Yamane at Motion Pro, so getting cables made should be no problem.  In fact, Rick has my watch for repair right now (he fixes watches in his spare time and Tag Heuer wanted a MINT to repair my Calibre S) so maybe I can talk him into making me a cable and throwing it in the box with the watch.  I guess a little measuring is in order this evening.


Thanks for the advice, gents.

Cloner
ABQ, NM

I seperated the battery box from the air box for the same reason.
I use a lighter SBK gel battery so I'm not worried about a large battery rocking/vibrating and breaking the battery box bolts. Having the battery box off first lets me remove the air box without having to remove the ignition lock and cover which really pisses me off!
It enables carb synching with mercury sticks or gauges and access to the carb needles without removing the air box.

[greenohawk69]

I seperated the battery box from the air box for the same reason.
I use a lighter SBK gel battery so I'm not worried about a large battery rocking/vibrating and breaking the battery box bolts. Having the battery box off first lets me remove the air box without having to remove the ignition lock and cover which really pisses me off!
It enables carb synching with mercury sticks or gauges and access to the carb needles without removing the air box.

I solved the problem that is in bold and underlined by removing the zip tie for the ignition wiring and then using a Dremel to gring off the nub that the zip tie was threaded through.  After doing this, I did not need to remove the ignition lock and cover. 

[koko64]

I solved the problem that is in bold and underlined by removing the zip tie for the ignition wiring and then using a Dremel to grind off the nub that the zip tie was threaded through.  After doing this, I did not need to remove the ignition lock and cover. 

You mean the little protruding thingo that faces back towards the rider? I took the cutting wheel to it also. Looking at it, it seems to have been cast as part of the steering lock/ignition unit purely as something to cable tie wiring to. I don't know if you were like me, but I was cutting it off and wondering if something was going to go 'boing' inside the unit. But it was just a useless protuberance. I just want to 'fish hook' the guy who designed that. It would catch the front lip of the air box. I take off the battery box and ignition holding bracket first because the Dyna coils are huge. This lets me slide the air box back a little then lift it off with the ignition/steering lock in place. No denting of the K&N filter or scraping the air box.

Separating the air box and battery box, and circumcising the steering lock certainly helps ease of servicing.

This forum is great. We are all seeing it, and making little changes for the better.

[greenohawk69]

You mean the little protruding thingo that faces back towards the rider? I took the cutting wheel to it also. Looking at it, it seems to have been cast as part of the steering lock/ignition unit purely as something to cable tie wiring to. I don't know if you were like me, but I was cutting it off and wondering if something was going to go 'boing' inside the unit. But it was just a useless protuberance. I just want to 'fish hook' the guy who designed that. It would catch the front lip of the air box. I take off the battery box and ignition holding bracket first because the Dyna coils are huge. This lets me slide the air box back a little then lift it off with the ignition/steering lock in place. No denting of the K&N filter or scraping the air box.

Separating the air box and battery box, and circumcising the steering lock certainly helps ease of servicing.

This forum is great. We are all seeing it, and making little changes for the better.

   Exactly.  Just seemed inefficient to remove the ignition and cover to remove the airbox.  No Dyna Coils...yet or separated the air and battery box.