Cored two pairs and it was totally worthwhile and easy. Dunno what Muskrat was referring to but the Dremel is the perfect tool for this.
And I did two pairs of
S2R cans. They're more difficult.
All you need is a Dremel with a supply of heavy-duty reinforced cutoff wheels, some fiberglass exhaust packing mat, some perforated steel muffler tube, hi-temp RTV, a cheap rivet gun with 1/8" aluminum rivets, and a free Saturday.
Follow this guys' instructions to get the muffler outlets off:
http://www.ducatisuite.com/mufflers.htmlAnd read and adapt my instructions in the Tutorials section on removing the rest of the guts/fitting perforated tube and glass packing:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35964.0You should be able to read and combine both sets of how-tos to arrive at a
fully cored setup for your Monster. Don't do it however if you are just going to half-core it and not pack it. That's ghetto and doesn't sound as good.
Prep well and use some hi-heat primer
and paint available at any McParts store, and badabing. Not hard at all and beats the hell out of paying $400 for slipons.
X2..the link posted to the S2R can's here is what I based mine off of - mine are the low mount variation. They ended up being roughly 10" long, so the entire second/last chamber is gone. They're loud, but harley's without baffles are louder.
I got rid of the steel inner portion all together, so mine are made up of the inlet exhaust tube/flange section riveted to the outer aluminum beauty cover, perforated tube wrapped with some quality packing, and the end cap riveted on. I had to take a dremmel tool and cut the triangle/chamfered section at the bottom of the aluminum outer piece off, which allowed me to get the sleeve entirely off of the mufflers. I the inner steel muffler down to roughly 1" over-all length. Slid the aluminum portion back over it, welded the piece I cut off them back on, and used nuts/bolts to secure the mounting tabs back to it. Next I took the perforated tubing I got, cut it to length, wrapped it in packing (more the better...), inserted it into the aluminum sleeve and rivited the end-cap on.
Voila - roughly 90% lighter than stock can's, totally serviceable, and they sound great. Took about 50 bucks in cash with the packing....as he said above, beets the hell out of some 400 dollar slip-ons that really aren't any better in flow than what I've done (flowed on a bench when done.....cylinder head ports will restrict flow before these do, at least based off calculations as I haven't flowed a cylinder head).
