Adjusting S2R1000 Timing Belts (My Experience)

Started by jgrm1, April 06, 2010, 03:58:00 AM

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brad black

i usually move the tensioner in using my thumb on one roller and fingers on the other until all the clearance is gone, add a touch of preload and tighten the bolts.  the 1000 has no movement of the belt off the rollers due to the positioning of the rollers, but the smaller motors allow the few mm movement at this.  just my method.
Brad The Bike Boy

http://www.bikeboy.org

Armor

I definitely noticed my bike ran better after replacing the belts. I attribute this to tighter belts.  After 12,000 miles the belts were a little loose.
04 M1000s, Arrows, Light Flywheel, Ohlins suspension

lilmonster

What works for me is I put the crank at TDC, lock the cams in place with some bolts machined down on the end that fits in a notch on opposite end of cams. When the bolts are in the notches, the timing mark on the pulley will be pointing at the mark on the engine. Loosen the cam rollers, the rollers will move when tension is put on the belt but the cam will remain in time. Then I place some folded chipboard approx 4 mil thick between the belt and the tensioner. I get it about as tight I can, tighten everything up and remove the chipboard. If it too tight or too loose you can just add or subtract a fold of chipboard and try again. When you get it like you want it, it is easy to repeat and get close to same tension every time. So far, so good.

scaramanga

hello everyone,
Just bought my 2008 s2r1000 and luv it.
just want to comment on the vertical cylinder running hotter than the front one. I don't believe that for one minute.
I just took a quick look at the engine and you can clearly see that the vertical cylinder has much more cooling capacity(fin surface area) than the front. Its important for both cylinder heads to be close in temp(whether high or low) so they are both equally efficient.
cheers
2008 s2r1000
2011 sf1098