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Author Topic: Re: aligned my forks ---is this normal?? UPDATE suspension guru needed!!  (Read 3118 times)
MonsterHPD
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« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2011, 09:37:52 PM »

Good morning.

Well, this sounds very strange to me. Take a look at this picture:



At the left is the bottom plug in the lower fork leg, it has the slotted adjuster screw in the middle where you adjust the compression damping (or at least can try to, see my previous posts on the subject).
This plug goes thru the hole in the fork leg and connects with the internal thread in the aluminium comp stack holder to the right. This, in turn, sits inside the cartridge tube and is held in place with said circlip / lock ring.
When assembling the fork, the plug is torqued to 40 Nm against this circlip /lock ring, and if ever the comp stack holder would come past the lock ring, this is the time.

The slotted screw you turn from the outside when adjusting the damping only turns, it does not move axially.
On the inside, it has a slot which mates with the blade of the the threaded part in the middle; the not-so-needle-shaped tip on the right is the compression adjuster needle.
As you turn the screw on the outside, this needle climbs (or descends depending on which way you turn) on the internal threads in the bottom plug and has no physical contact with anything else. Especially, no interaction whatsoever with the circlip.
Also, when assembled the fork spring pushes the fork apart; this circlip is what prevents the forks from falling apart.

There is a remote possibility that the slot-and-blade connection between the external adjuster and the internal needle thingy has a problem; with everything properly assembled the tolerance should not allow them to come apart, though.

I hope I managed to make this reasonably understandable; if not let me know.

Kind regards and good luck waytogo  

  
« Last Edit: August 21, 2011, 09:40:27 PM by MonsterHPD » Logged

Monster 900-2002 (sold, alive and well in the UK), 749R / 1100 HYM combo for track days, wifes / my Monster Dark 800-2003 (not entirely "Dark" anymore and a personal favourite) , 50% of 900SSie -2000 track bike for rainy days-now with tuned ST2 motor and Microtec ECU. Also parked due to having been T-boned on track.
gr1976
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« Reply #16 on: August 22, 2011, 04:48:28 AM »

MonsterHPD - Thanks for the response it was quite helpful. It also reinforced what I was thinking, that when the plug is torqued the comp. stack holder moves then or not at all. I'm wondering now if the needle backed all the way out of the stack holder during adjustment, and thats what he felt "give". If so, perhaps it shifted and he wasn't able to turn it back in because the needle and stack holder became misaligned?? I would assume the pieces should be machined in a way that this cannot happen. I should know more tomorrow, they are closed today.

Thanks again
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corey
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'06 Tang/Black S2R800


« Reply #17 on: August 22, 2011, 05:54:44 PM »

He suggested I raise them 4mm to reduce running wide in turns, high speed wobble (that he attributed to the front end becoming unloaded at speed b/c of the wind on the body due to the the upright seating position) and just giving it a little more sport type handling. I read a post on here recently that some one did it as well. I thought I'd try it and if it seemed to twitchy I could always change it back. But now...?

alright alright, i dont want to start blowing holes in your buddy's theories, or throwing wrenches around... but he's got some stuff wrong here. dropping your front end 4mm (or raising the forks 4mm up into the triples) will certainly increase your bike's willingness to turn-in. It will become "twitchier." The reason this happens is because you reduce your rake (angle of your forks). This ALSO reduces your wheel-base length slightly (distance between two contact points of your tires). Unfortunately for your pals theory, no matter what your seating position, a shorter wheelbase equals less straight-line stability at high speeds. Quicker turn-in, shorter wheel-base, less straight-line stability. That's the trade-off. If you're having front end wobble problems at super high-speeds, this likely isn't the solution.

putting more weight over the front end will help, but i don't think this small geometry shift is going to get you there. you'd need to install some clip-ons, raise your rear-end, things to that effect.

the monster is a rear-biased bike, so it's going to feel light in the front... with this geometry change, i WOULD be wary of how twitchy the bike gets. if you notice a lot of wobble, you may need a steering damper... dont want the dreaded tank slapper...

hopefully this is somewhat insightful...
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When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...
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