S2R Clocks and Replacement - Help!

Started by Stuka Pilot, May 28, 2012, 06:55:41 AM

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Stuka Pilot

Hi All

I have a September 2007 S2R1000 which has suddenly and inexplicably developed a lot of tiny cracks and crazing across the speedo perspex lens. It is driving me nuts and I need to fix it.

Is this a known problem?
Has anyone perfected a method for replacing just the lens?
Assuming lens replacement only is out, I can get a new set of clocks from DucatiOnline for £349 - costly but not prohibitive.

Trouble is the part number quoted by DucatiPartsOnline "40610272B - UPDATED NR  40610354B" does not match the number in my parts book. Does anyone know whether this part will definitely suit this model and year and retain all functionality?

Finally, the guys at DucatiPartsOnline say that the replacement clocks are simply plug and play, yet checking the service manual it talks extensively about reprogramming with the red key (which I have). Which is correct, and if reprogramming is required how tough is it?

Thanks in anticipation

Terry





ducpainter

Can't answer all your questions, but it's my understanding that a new clock will be plug and play as long as it's never been 'married' to an ecu with the red key.

If you don't insert the red key, that same clock will then be usable on another bike.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
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Stuka Pilot

Ducpainter - thanks for that, it helps. That would possibly explain why the clocks are advertised as 'Virgin'.

ducpainter

Someone will be along with more info about replacing a lens.

You could look on ebay for clocks that have been replaced to save money over the 340 pound price. Your red key should allow you to re-program that clock.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



stopintime

I was recently looking for new instruments myself and did some research.

You can find used instruments which don't work/unknown condition, but have the lens and top cover intact.
It's a pain to fit them back together with the foam seal in place and still waterproof, but it can be done.
I didn't succeed, so I'm taking them apart again - cleaning the screw receiving plastic holes - filling them with two component glue - drilling new holes for the screws to "bite". Hopefully it'll work....
252,000 km/seventeen years - loving it

Monstruo

Hi Terry,

I believe this is a known issue. Same happened to me on a 2004 S4R and I have read that it happens to many people on older models as well although doesn't seem to be always the case (that Italian engineering!).

While studying my options I came to this post about this issue: http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=20161&highlight=cracked

I believe that, as somebody else said before, this is not a total solution. I will, most probably, replace the entire panel when the issue becomes more serious (water leaking, unreadable dials, etc), or use an aftermarket (after getting rid of the inmobilizer stuff).

Cheers,
My Toys:
2009 Triumph Daytona 675 :)
2004 S4R
2007 YZF-R1 -- sold :(
2002 S4 -- sold

Stuka Pilot

Thanks Monstruo - very helpful.

Reading through that thread it does seem as though it is a known issue.

Any other info from other Duc Experts would be helpful.

Thanks

Terry

Speeddog

At some point, IIRC ~2005, the instrument housing and internal parts were changed to a dis/assembleable design.
Those, you can swap your internals into another case/ swap bezels/etc.
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DarkStaR

Quote from: Speeddog on May 28, 2012, 12:12:35 PM
At some point, IIRC ~2005, the instrument housing and internal parts were changed to a dis/assembleable design.
Those, you can swap your internals into another case/ swap bezels/etc.

This is true on my '05 S2R.  If I ever need to, I'd just replace the half portion of the housing containing the lenses via used/broken set of gauges.

IIRC, the clear lens them selves are glue/melted to the housing half.