Bike creeps in first and is impossible to upshift.

Started by drewbabich, June 26, 2012, 12:52:21 PM

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Howie

I really have no idea how hot clutch fluid can get in the slave, but the engine case it is mounted to can get hot enough to blister paint so I wouldn't discount that possibility.  Besides, as stated before, a fluid change and bleed won't hurt.  Besides, clutch and brake fluid should be changed annually anyway.

More info is needed for diagnosis.  Are you using a different weight or brand of oil?  Do you live in the southern hemisphere where it would be getting colder this time of year?  Did you inspect the slave for seepage?  It should be dry around the weep hole.  Has the bike been for a good, long ride since the problem started?

Clutches can be difficult to bleed.   You want to start with the reservoir as level as possible to prevent trapped air in the master.  Bleed slowly, quick pumping of the lever can torn a big air bubble into a bunch of small ones, making bleeding difficult.   [bang]  Missed your last post.  If you bleed, it gets better and in a short period of time it gets worse again and again air is getting in.  You have a small leak, probably the slave.

LA

My bike did what sounds like the same thing.  It got worse over time until if I sat idling in 1st gear it would just pull off on its own.  It was the master leaking.  Replaced it for about $250. fixed it.
"I'm leaving this one totally stock" - Full Termi kit, Ohlins damper, Pazzo levers, lane splitters, 520 quick change 14/43 gears, DP gold press plate w/open cover, Ductile iron rotors w/cp211 pads.

R90S (hot rod), 80-900SS, Norton 850 MkIII, S4RS

BastrdHK


+1
If you are bleeding correctly (pick up a brake/clutch bleeding kit or vaccum pump from an autoparts store....makes this job ten times faster/easier) and the clutch is performing properly as you say after the bleed, then gets progressively worse.  Air is being introduced to the system.  Check your reservoir diaphargm for holes, bleeder nipple, master etc.  I have seen masters with rubber diaphrgms develop a small hole/tear and actually pump air into the line the more you use it.

M-ROCin' it!!!

Speeddog

I've had poor results with Barnett clutches in the wet-clutch bikes.
They drag a *lot* when when the engine's cold, and still drag when the engine's hot.
Finding neutral at a stop is impossible.

I've replaced them with OEM plates, and then the problems are gone.

How many miles on the bike?
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