can't find neutral

Started by sofadriver, July 14, 2012, 06:18:16 AM

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sofadriver

I'm having a helluva hard time in traffic with the 900SS I just bought. Neutral is almost impossible to find with the engine running. Stop the engine and it goes right in. It's got an Oberon slave cylinder but there's plenty of extra travel at the clutch lever so it seems to be OK there. I'm thinking it might be the position of the adjusting screw that's in the master cylinder (under the clutch lever assy)  but I'm not sure which way to turn it. Isn't that what sets the starting position of the clutch throw? If that doesn't do it, what else could be the problem?
Mike in Tacoma
'08 S2r 1000 - Red on Red
'96 900 SS/SP
'02 ST4s (gone but not forgotten)

IBA 38181

ducpainter

The screw is for bleed back into the master.

It can be adjusted, and will affect lever travel slightly, but if you adjust too much your clutch will slip when the engine warms up as the fluid won't be able to return to the reservoir as it expands.

I'd bleed the system for starters.
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 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
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ducatigirl100

are the clutch springs Tight in off ?

motoxmann

what rpm does your bike idle at?

on my monster, I've found that anything over 1300 is near impossible to find neutral, but 1200 or less and it drops right in. I currently have my idle set at 1100 strictly for ease of finding neutral (manual says it should be 1200)

sofadriver

yep, bled it first thing.
idle is right at 1200.
i haven't taken a look-see at the clutch yet so i'm going to pull it apart and check it before i go any further.
Mike in Tacoma
'08 S2r 1000 - Red on Red
'96 900 SS/SP
'02 ST4s (gone but not forgotten)

IBA 38181

DarkStaR

I have this issue too now-a-days.  I'll get around to trying got fix it, but that's way down on my things to do list.

I find that getting into neutral right before you make a complete stop helps.  Not convenient, but better than dicking around with the lever all the time...


Ddan

My SS does the same thing with an Evo slave and the stock coffin master.  Aftermarket slaves usually have a larger bore so there will be less piston travel for a given lever stroke.  Adjustable levers might work as you can have more throw.  Like DP said, the screw you are talking about adjusting is really for the fluid return, if you go too far with it you'll loose your clutch.  I would assume turning it in would be the way you want to go if you decide to try that
2000 Monster 900Sie, a few changes
1992 900 SS, currently a pile of parts.  Now running
                    flogged successfully  NHMS  12 customized.  Twice.   T3 too.   Now retired.

Ducati Monster Forum at
www.ducatimonsterforum.org

ducpainter

If you do adjust the screw remove the reservoir cover and watch for fluid returning to the master when the lever is released.

It will spurt upwards...be careful as it will try to get all over everything. You don't have to fully pull the lever to test.
"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Howie

You need 1.5-2 mm free play at the lever.  Or, more in line with what ducpainter says, turn the screw in until you see the spurt whern barely squeezing the lever (no free play).  Now turn the screw out 1/8 turn