Wheel Removal

[arai_speed]

Hey guys, my horse is in need of some new shoes so I'll be taking off the wheels of my 07 s4rs to get them mounted w/some fresh rubber and I wanted to know if there are any tricks that i need to be aware of for this?

I have removed and mounted the wheels on my R1 countless times but this will be the first time I do it on the Duck.

Some of the things I'de like to know are:

1) Socket Size for front/rear sprocket
2) Torque for front/rear sprocket
3) Anything I should replace when doing this?

Thanks. 

[ellingly]

Hey guys, my horse is in need of some new shoes so I'll be taking off the wheels of my 07 s4rs to get them mounted w/some fresh rubber and I wanted to know if there are any tricks that i need to be aware of for this?

I have removed and mounted the wheels on my R1 countless times but this will be the first time I do it on the Duck.

Some of the things I'de like to know are:

1) Socket Size for front/rear sprocket
2) Torque for front/rear sprocket
3) Anything I should replace when doing this?

Thanks. 

S4Rs, easy peasy. No playing with sprockets or chain tension on the single-sided swingarm models.

1. Place onto SSSA rear stand, with the stand off to the left of the bike (so you can undo the nut which is on the RHS)
2. Take off circlip on big-arsed nut on RHS of wheel (the 'non swing-arm side' to make a bit more sense for you)
3. Use big-arsed socket to take off big-arsed nut. 46mm or something iirc.
4. Wheel comes off (it's attached like a car - there's seriously nothing else you need to do)
5. Reattach as appropriate. Someone with an S4Rs can tell me the torque of the nut, iirc for at least the s2r and s2r1000 it's in the order of 90 Nm. But I might be wrong on that too.

Piece of piss. Oh, when you reassemble, there's probably a couple of little thrust washer and stuff in there... just put 'em back where they came from (i.e. take note as you pull the wheel off). Nothing else you need to replace, I doubt the wheel bearings would be stuffed by this point. Good time to give a quick degrease to the swingarm though.

[carlosbarrios]

Like above, rear wheel is pretty easy.  Just be careful when reinstalling, that the 4 pins from the spindle (you'll know what I am talking about when you get in there) are lined up in the holes in the wheel.  Read what happened here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=3915.0

Also, you *might* have to remove the exhaust cans to maneuver the wheel in and out.  on my 04 S4R, I don't have to, but it is VERY tight.  You have to be very careful not to ding the wheel, or damage the threads on the spindle.


For the front wheel, you need a rear stand, and a front stand (or you can lift the front with some ratcheting tie downs with the rafters of your garage door).  You need to take the brake calipers off.  Then there is a nut on one side of the axle (I forget the size) on the left side of the bike.  Remove it.  Then loosen the pinch bolts that go into the axle at the bottom of the forks from the front of the bike.  Then the axle comes out to the right side of the bike (I usually tap it with a mallet from the left of the bike, using a plastic or wooden piece, so I don't damage the axle).  A spacer will fall out from between the wheel and the fork.  Look for it, so you know where and how it goes in.  Now the wheel can come out.

When assembling, make sure the pinch bolts are somewhat loose, let the bike down from the stand, roll it forward and then slam on the front brakes so as to compress the front forks.  This will ensure everything is seated correctly, and the front forks are (almost) parallel to each other.  Then tighten the pinch bolts.

You might want to grease up the axle before it goes back in.  Make sure you use the correct torque values as stated here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=373.msg39052#msg39052

Good luck!

[SKOM]

Hey someone linked my thread 

Anyway +11tyb on greasing the hub. Make sure you clean and grease the threads too so that you are getting the correct torque value. Not that I should be giving any advice. 

[hypurone]

The torque for the rear wheel nut is 137 ft lbs for us non metric folk.The front axle nut is 40-45 ft lbs. Pay CLOSE ATTENTION when you install the rear wheel as above post states to make sure you get the pins in the round holes and not the "casting" holes!!

[VisceralReaction]

Seriously!!?? The torque is 137ftlbs on the S4R?? 

[hypurone]

Seriously!!?? The torque is 137ftlbs on the S4R?? 

Serious as a heartattack for an S4RS.

[SKOM]

The S2R 800 need 130 ft-lbs.

[arai_speed]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.  I plan on doing this over the weekend so hopefully it should be too much work.

In looking at the torque values posted by Carlos:

Front and Rear Wheels
Front wheel nut  M25x1.25  63 *  GREASE B
LH rear wheel nut  M33x1.5  156 *  GREASE B
RH rear wheel nut  M38x1.5  176 *  GREASE B

The rear wheel should be 130lb ft
The front wheel should be 46lb ft

I used the following site:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

To convert the Nm values to Lb-Ft

176 newton meter = 129.810 937 92 pound foot

63 newton meter = 46.466 415 279 pound foot

[Capo]

What no one has mentioned is that when appying the tourque to the rear axle nut is that the wheel will want to turn, now some folks have been able to lock the wheel on the rear brake but it takes significant pressure on the brake pedal. You might want to consider roping in an assistant to stand on the brake while you apply the torque. Also helps if you break the nut before putting the bike up on the stand.

I have the Ducati stand, it has a tubular bar that locks the wheel through the spokes, I did not want to use this fearing it might damage my magnesium machesini wheel, but I ended up having to and bent the bar in the process.

A rattle gun is probably the best method.

Couple of tips, Make sure your socket is nice and snug on the nut and ensure you pull the breaker bar straight. When re-assembling, put some anti size on the shaft where the aluminium tapered spacer fits as they can corrode and sieze onto the shaft.

[carlosbarrios]

What no one has mentioned is that when appying the tourque to the rear axle nut is that the wheel will want to turn, now some folks have been able to lock the wheel on the rear brake but it takes significant pressure on the brake pedal. You might want to consider roping in an assistant to stand on the brake while you apply the torque. Also helps if you break the nut before putting the bike up on the stand.

I have the Ducati stand, it has a tubular bar that locks the wheel through the spokes, I did not want to use this fearing it might damage my magnesium machesini wheel, but I ended up having to and bent the bar in the process.

A rattle gun is probably the best method.

Couple of tips, Make sure your socket is nice and snug on the nut and ensure you pull the breaker bar straight. When re-assembling, put some anti size on the shaft where the aluminium tapered spacer fits as they can corrode and sieze onto the shaft.

To lock the wheel I use a foot-long piece of 2x3 wood wedged between part of the swingarm and the rim spokes, making sure it does not touch any wires, hoses or the rotor.  The wood does not damage the finish on the rim.  I can take the wheel off and put it back on by myself without any hassle or damage.