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Author Topic: Two torn down monsters  (Read 1522 times)
stickbow
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« on: February 18, 2013, 09:26:09 AM »



I currently have two monsters, a 04 620 and a 07 s2r1k, that are both in pieces for different reasons and I have a few questions for anyone with advice(and spare time) about each.  S2R is the bike Im keeping, 620 is the one im fixing up to sell.

   
1) S2r1k - I foolishly pulled the swingarm off before breaking the rear wheel nut loose. Do I have to reassemble so I can use the rear brake? Or is there another option, Pulling this apart for powdercoat.
   
2) S2r1k - what does one use to mask parts (threaded or thru holes mostly) for powder coating.
   
3) S2r1k - Im getting the ecu reflashed which includes removing the immobilizer. What is the cheapest, easiest way to get smaller gauges? Does anyone run with no gauges? Anyone use the iphone instead?
   
4) 620 - Engine has a pretty badly broken engine mount, the coworker I know who is a phenomenal welder says it will be a lot of work to get it right, and will probably require tearing down the cases because everything is going to get so hot. He recommended buying a new set of cases, and a quick fleabay search shows 150 will get me both cases. Weld or swap engine cases?
   
5) 620 - Checked valve tolerances at TDC compression, both exhausts were : Opener .004" Closer .002" and the intakes were close to Opener .0015" Closer .004". Is this extremely odd (Don’t have old service records from previous owner…), or am I measuring incorrectly(Following LT snyders book)
   
6) 620 - Measuring the closing shim length after its removed, what size chamfer does the measurement tool have? Im assuming the intent it to measure of the bottom of the shim radius.


Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help out -SB


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He Man
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« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2013, 09:38:01 AM »


1) S2r1k - I foolishly pulled the swingarm off before breaking the rear wheel nut loose. Do I have to reassemble so I can use the rear brake? Or is there another option, Pulling this apart for powdercoat.

Im assuming you're new to this and dont have many tools. But the easiest way to do this is to use an impact gun. It spins faster than the wheel would move. otherwise, your best bet is to ask some buddies to hold the wheel down for you.
   
2) S2r1k - what does one use to mask parts (threaded or thru holes mostly) for powder coating.
leave that up to the powdecoater, they use heat resistant rubber plugs.
   
3) S2r1k - Im getting the ecu reflashed which includes removing the immobilizer. What is the cheapest, easiest way to get smaller gauges? Does anyone run with no gauges? Anyone use the iphone instead?

the cheapest way is to buy them and install them yourself? Not sure where you are going with this one. You should know that the relays for the blinkers are built into the guages, so youll need to wire that up.
   
4) 620 - Engine has a pretty badly broken engine mount, the coworker I know who is a phenomenal welder says it will be a lot of work to get it right, and will probably require tearing down the cases because everything is going to get so hot. He recommended buying a new set of cases, and a quick fleabay search shows 150 will get me both cases. Weld or swap engine cases?

I wouldn't attempt to swap the cases over this. You can weld it, but you would need a very experienced welder to cut  and build up the weld. I wouldnt be afraid of heat. Aluminum is a great heat sink, you just need to cut the piece and build up the weld.  Alternatively there is a 3rd mouting hole that is threaded and isnt used by the 620 motor. You can fab up a steel plate to transfer the kickstand load onto that bolt instead.
   
5) 620 - Checked valve tolerances at TDC compression, both exhausts were : Opener .004" Closer .002" and the intakes were close to Opener .0015" Closer .004". Is this extremely odd (Don’t have old service records from previous owner…), or am I measuring incorrectly(Following LT snyders book)

The numbers are in the right range, and it is what it is. Consistent measuring comes from practice.
   
6) 620 - Measuring the closing shim length after its removed, what size chamfer does the measurement tool have? Im assuming the intent it to measure of the bottom of the shim radius.
it is not the intent to measure the radius but the length of the closing shim from the point of the collet engaging to the closing rocker arm engagement (bottom of the shim)



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Raux
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2013, 09:51:14 AM »

That's the right side front engine mount Wink
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stickbow
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« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2013, 10:14:42 AM »

Thanks guys for the input

1) Decent collection of tools but impact gun is something thats been on the to-buy list.

3) Was asking more if anyone had a source for cheap gauges, but thats a good tip about the blinkers, I do have a set of aftermarket blinkers with the ballast? inline with them, but thats not the same thing right.

4) Yes its an engine mount, still concerned about the 800 degrees that the welder is talking about. Would you tear down the engine for the welding process or just keep it all together He Man?

5) I guess better wording would be "Im assuming the intent is to measure from the bottom of the radius to the bottom of the shim" key being bottom of the shim not somewhere up the radius.

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He Man
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2013, 07:15:40 PM »

That's the right side front engine mount Wink

pawl! and i said to myself, man hes got rusty belts!  too much drink at noon. Tongue

as for sources of cheap gauges, it all depends on what you consider cheap. danmoto.com

as for the welding, youll want to strip all the paint around before sending it off to the welder.

im not qutie sure waht you mean by bottom of radius.
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Howie
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2013, 10:03:10 PM »

I'm guessing your welder is less than confident about welding on the assembled engine because he is not familiar with the parts he cannot see that might be damaged.  People have successfully welded worse than that.
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stickbow
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« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2013, 09:10:03 AM »

Yeah thats pretty much it howie, I guess if I can tell him to not worry about it then what does he care. Do you think cut the piece thats cracked on both sides and grind to make an angled but flat surface, then cut a matching piece of tubing?

No worries He Man, picture didnt have a heck of a lot of context haha.
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Howie
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« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2013, 09:45:20 AM »

I would leave it up to the welder.  Do bring the welder the mounting bolt, it should help with dimensions.  Maybe an exact with of the mounting area from a known good engine too.
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pitbull
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« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2013, 01:06:22 PM »

I've had the rear engine mounts welded on two different 900 engines without splitting the cases and had no issues.
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