Coolant Swap

[HotIce]

Never owned a liquid cooled in US, so I was wondering what to use to flush and replace the 1098 coolant.
I have no idea what it is currently running, but most likely whatever Ducati put there in 2008.
Which is the Shell stuff I can't find here.
Question n.1, should I to a flush with, like, a 50/50 water and white vinegar mix, before refilling with new stuff.
What would be best for "new stuff", given no track time, and CA weather?
Engine Ice? Water Wetter? SuperCool? The Evans water free thing? Else?

I was also checking the flush procedure and refill listed in the user and service manual, and it looks a little bit strange.
They say to refill from the overflow tank, which is connected to the upper rad cap with a line going uphill.
Is some sort of vacuum going to suck coolant up into the rad somehow?

[Slide Panda]

Procedure on Engine Ice calls for dumping the existing, filling with 50/50 distilled (white) vinegar are distilled water and running briefly. So if you're planning on changing coolant types, that's probably wise. But if you're sticking to the same chemistry, probably not necessary unless you suspect there's some goop in there... but.. it doesn't take much time and doesn't hurt.

You'll probably want to use some sort of coolant as it does provide lubrication to the impeller. Water only or water + wetter would only be needed for track use, and if called for.

While you probably don't need protection from freezes, coolants will offer some lubrication factor that water won't

And that procedure does sound odd. personally, I'd read it... read it again and then tell the manual to go home, its drunk, and fill the radiator first, burp it, recheck the level, add a bit to the over flow - run the bike briefly and set all teh levels.

[HotIce]

So, being, I think, the GlycoShell stuff, ethylene glycol based, if I stick with something based on that (like the Honda Coolant Type 2), I should be fine.
Besides the risk of poisoning, that is  

Yes, the flush procedure illustrated in the user and service manual, is fishy.
Maybe they are telling it that way, because getting to the radiator cap would otherwise requires taking off the nose fairing and the air intake channels.

[Howie]

Any name brand ethylene glycol coolant is good as long as it is safe for aluminum (silica and phosphate free).

[HotIce]

Just for reference, this is from the 1098 service manual. Seems wonky to me:

http://docdroid.net/4ya7

[Howie]

Manufacturers in this modern age of safety try and keep you away from the radiator cap, this may explain the wonky.  Since I never tried that method on that particular bike I can't say whether or not it would work, but it looks iffy, slow at best.  I would follow  Slide Panda's advice.  Do make sure the level is below the MAX line when hot.

[jerryz]

Any decent coolant is fine 50/50 water mix and must be silicate free or the water pump will wear .

[BoDiddley]

Any decent coolant is fine 50/50 water mix and must be silicate free or the water pump will wear .

I just went out the garage and read on a couple different labels and could not find anything about silicate in or out.  Anyone have a preference company that does not include the stuff.  Glad you started this thread, I have to do the same.

Later >

I did a quick search "engine ice worth it" and looked at front page of 8 forums, 50/50 but the ones that love it never say why and no one said it run cooler.  The coolants on my shelf must be a bit old being the reason they don't say anything about Silicates.  I am going with prestone that is made for GM Aluminum engines.

[Slide Panda]

So I'm not a water cooled font of knowledge - but i swapped my KTM that sees track days to engine ice at the start of this year. Now, I have ridden very little this year, but it's performed well so far. I don't have a long track record with it... but so far.

[Speeddog]

That refill method (through the overflow tank) is retarded.
It won't work, as the radiator cap is in between.

Pull off what you need to get at the radiator cap.