S2R1k rear brake sensor issue

[DucSteve]

Hey, so I installed some Sato rearsets on my S2R1000 a few years back. I never got around to installing the rear brake light adapter and years later I seem to have lost it. My fix to keep brake light from being on at all times was to press the sensor in against part of the frame and basically tape it down.

Obviously this is a pretty janky setup. I've gotten pretty used to just having my front brake activate the brake lights, so I was wondering... Can I just cut this rear brake sensor off? I'm pretty noob when it comes to electrical, so I want to make sure if this is a good idea or not... Or any other suggestions would be great.

[Slide Panda]

Find a better solution.

Either get the part from Sato, I'm sure they sell parts
OR Get a pressure activated banjo switch and use that, instead of the mechanical clicker.

Just cutting off something that is technically a safety device seems a poorly formed plan.

[DucSteve]

hm I could get the banjo switch. is there a good guide for installation?

[Slide Panda]

How much detail do you need? Its a banjo bolt with a switch in it.

About the only trick is getting a set of the AMP SuperSeal connectors, like so:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/PN-015-0080/AMP-superseal-2-pole-connector-set
- to terminate the leads from the switch. Then it can just be plugged right in to the main harness. No fuss, no muss

[DucSteve]

How detailed? Well I'm ok at wrenching on the bike, but like I said, I'm pretty dumb when it comes to electronics... Only work I've done on brakes is changing pads and bleeding. So explain it to me like I'm 5 

[Slide Panda]

Hmmm ok then.

Prep:
1. Gather the crap you'll need. This will include any items, like brake fluid (DOT 4) and crush washers needed as if you were doing brake lines. Also have the pressure switch terminated with that connector. When you set to work, have a spray bottle of water and some towels on hand to deal with any brake fluid spills promptly
2. Read up on brake bleeding procedures.
3. Call up handy buddy, offer a 6'er and keep him on site.

Work Steps:
1. Disconnect existing switch and remove it from the bike
2. Unbolt stock banjo bolt - DO NOT TOUCH the brake pedal after this point.
3. Fit new banjo switch and crush washers to banjo fitting
4. Thread and tighten said switch. Dont rush here, you'll have to disentangle the wires every couple turns. Tighten to manuf. torque spec (it's in here someplace - run a search)
5. Bleed the system. This might take a bit to get fluid moving out of bleeder, but it will happen. Be patient and don't rush this step.
6. Once bled, give it a test. Power on the electrics and push the brake lever. If you've done it all right, the light will come on. With a pressure switch, it doesn't come on as immediately, at the first touch of the lever like the mechanical did - so be sure to put some pressure on. *If* you have to really jam on the lever to activate the light, that's a sign there's air in the lines, still and more bleeding is needed.

[DucSteve]

cool, sounds simple enough, thanks for the help 

[GregP]

Did you ever get this sorted out?  I'm having a similar problem with a set of Ducabike reasets on my 01 S4. Can someone post a link, picture or other info on the "Banjo switch"?

I knew the rear brake light wasn't going to work as the switch was deleted. I only use the rear brake when I'm sitting on an incline so I was ok with this.

The problem is, the brake light isn't working with the front brake lever depressed either. I reconnected the stock brake switch to see if this was the issue but the rear light still doesn't work.

The rear brake system doesn't have any brake fluid at the moment. Don't know if this could be an issue.

Any recommendations, suggestions or fixes appreciated.

EDIT: Found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=251317745605

I get where this goes on the brake master end but how does this plug into the stock plug of the wiring harness?

[Slide Panda]

The fact that your brake light doesn't work off of their switch points to a separate issue. The most simple explanation may be that the brake filament in the build is bunt out. The stock bulb has two filaments, one for the running light one for the brake, so it's quite possible for one or the other filament to fail. So, first check the bulb and if you've got a volt meter you can check for power coming to the socket properly.

The two brake light switches operate independently, so disconnecting one will not prevent the other from operating.

The lack of fluid in the rear brake, isn't so good, but does not effect the stock brake switch. The stock one is mechanical and will trigger the light when the lever is pressed, regardless of the functional operation of the brake. Same applies to the front.

The switch you link to connects to the harness in the same spot as the stock brakes. Look at my earlier post about the connectors. You can purchase the same ones used on the factory harness to terminate that pressure switch and make it plug-n-play without altering the stock main harness.

[GregP]

Thanks for the quick and detailed response.

Didn't think to check the bulb.  No fluid as she's sitting on the stand as I try to get these rearsets installed and everything functioning. 

I haven't had her on the street in almost a year but it would be nice to have the brake light work if I decided to make a canyon run.

[Slide Panda]

Occams Razor applies to bikes most of the time. The most simple explanation, is usually correct.

A light bulb stops working? Probably burnt out - not some strange collusion between two switches that can't effect each other.

[GregP]

I love the reference to Occam's Razor. I bet they don't get that type of response on hayabusa/gsxr forum.

Checked the bulb, only one, and it appears to be in good nick.  Both filaments are whole and shiny.

I'll mess with the other wires under the seat when I have a chance. I put new blinkers on this summer before I rode up to Laguna, maybe I haven't had a brake light since then.