I push the button, it doesn't start.

Started by thorn14, February 03, 2014, 06:03:34 PM

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thorn14

#15
So I'm an idiot. On the checklist I forgot the part about having the bike on and testing with the starter button pressed.

So in that case at the solenoid connector, I read 12.9V on the red/green wire. On the red/black wire I read 9V. Across both wires  at the connector I read 9V. Combined with the 1.5ohms resistance on the red/black wire and the corrosion I found when I stripped the wire, I'm assuming it is bad.

Question, the diode for the solenoid is wired in parallel, could it go bad? If so is there a way to test the diode without cutting it out of the loom? If not I assume I would just replace the red/black wire all the way to the ecu. Then theoretically it should start?

Edit: found this thread (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56569.15) describing a way to bypass the ecu as a last resort.
M620 turned M800 but then back to M620 after the M800 died at 110k, and now to Multi 1000.

Rudemouthsky

It's threads like this that make me glad I'm running FCR's. Good luck T13
"while there is a lower class, I am in it, and while there is a criminal element, I am of it, and while there is a soul in prison, I am not free." -Debs

Bill in OKC

Without a wiring diagram - I'm kind of guessing here from what I know about diodes and solenoids.  If the diode was bad, usually an open the starter might be slow to disengage.  If it was shorted -unusual/unlikely- then the solenoid would not engage.  My guess is -like you wondered earlier- if the power wires were reversed the diode would short out the power across the solenoid and it would not engage at all.  ...If I have read this thread right...  try reversing the power wires to the solenoid.
'07 S4Rs  '02 RSVR  '75 GT550  '13 FXSB  '74 H1E  '71 CB750

thorn14

I got it running yesterday by bypassing the ECU similar to the thread I linked earlier. Only difference is I didn't install my battery backwards, it merely stopped starting after a few times.

I'm still betting it's all the gratuitous amounts of corrosion at every wire and connection I find, all stemming from the steering head routing which split the loom open and was not closed prior to my owning of the bike.

Checked the diode a few nights ago and it was fine. Yet the connections inside were all covered in yellow dust (assuming some sort of corrosion).

Thanks for the help guys.
M620 turned M800 but then back to M620 after the M800 died at 110k, and now to Multi 1000.

Speeddog

I've seen a couple cases where water got inside the cluster, and it fries the sidestand switch wiring, and then the circuit in the ECU that runs the starter solenoid quits working.
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