Newer Monsters - Aligning Timing

[EEL]

I am working thru a valve adjustment on my new to me 1100 evo and will eventually need to set timing. I was able to procure a cam locking tool from CA Cycleworks for 9 bucks to set tension and align the cam gears

My question:

The newer monsters dont have a sight glass on the flywheel side to set up the TDC marks exactly, Since I've established how to set timing on the overhead cams, my only issue is now is how to perfectly set up the crankshaft.

Right now all I have is a vague notch on the crank double pulley and an equally vague notch on the clutch cover.

Am I being too picky here? Is that good enough?

[DarkMonster620]

those are the marks . . .

[He Man]

These aren't the droids you are looking for.

sorry no help here. I remember there only being one mark that marks horz TDC. then you just use the belts to line up the rest. Ive only ever adjusted my valves once on my m1100. heres my gallery pic if it helps im not sure if u can even see the notch. the other bikes had two IIRC.

[DarkMonster620]

Horizontal cylinder is #1 . . . if the mark on belt side is NOT aligned with the case one, it is not "timed"

[Yogi]

You need a degree wheel and a piston stop to calculate TDC on the crank- same method for all engines not just Ducati google "finding TDC degree wheel piston stop". When I checked mine the marks were way out. Don't rely on the marks from Ducati if you want it spot on. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs111c.htm

[brad black]

there is a factory locking tool for the crank.  without it there's no point loosening the pulley half screws or locking the cams.

the cam locking tools will show you where the cam should be when the mark on the timing shaft lines up with the mark on the primary drive cover.  within a tooth anyway, so it's pretty obvious.  just mark where it was and put it back that way is the easiest.  m696 have no camshaft locating marks at all, so the locking tool grooves in the cams can be visually checked easily enough to give you the right positioning.

[Yogi]

there is a factory locking tool for the crank.  without it there's no point loosening the pulley half screws or locking the cams.

Do you mind me asking why?
I did mine with a degree wheel and cam locks and dial gauges without the crank lock tool. The manual says you can not tension the belts properly without the loosening the pulley screws.

[brad black]

sorry, i meant that unless you lock or align the crank at tdc accurately there's no reason to lock the cams and loosen pulley screws.  there was one guy recommending using the timing cover groove to align the crank, which is pretty inaccurate.

loosening the screws allows the pulley toothed wheel to tilt, and the belt tension will increase when you tighten the pulley screws.  how much will depend on how much you loosened them.  i never undo the pulley screws unless i'm checking and resetting the cam timing.

fit new belts and tighten/adjust the tension at tdc firing for that particular cylinder, when there's no load on the belts.

[brad black]

the factory crank locking tool looks like this:  http://www.rztools.com.tw/admin/product/gd_img/b_20140603062754.jpg

it goes into the lh end of the crank, where the two prongs go into machined grooves.  to access them you remove the little cover held on by two screws in the alternator cover.

the crank is locked by the screw shown at the top, which goes into the forward thread that the two screw cover uses.  this locates the crank at horizontal tdc.  the timing shaft dot and the primary drive cover give you firing or overlap.

then you lock the cams, etc.

[EEL]

Update. I cant get myself to pay for a crankshaft locking tool. I already have a crankshaft turning tool and looking at costs on ebay. these are running about 350 dollars. I contacted rz tools about pricing but no response as of yet.

For establishing accurate TDC. I decided to get a piston stop as mentioned earlier but they are ridiculously expensive for what they are. Searching around on google I found a couple of links.

How to make a sparkplug tool


As for finding TDC, I found this link


I used an old DCPR8E plug to make a piston stop. Hacked the round ring portion as shown in the first video linked above. Then hammered the hex portion lightly to break up the ceramic insulator. Then with a couple of taps was able to get the insulator completely out.

I used a 2" #10 socket cap machine screw and shimmed it with some #10 nuts to add gap below the plug and placed a couple of washers on the inside with a locktited nut on the inner face.

Works like a charm! Its actually better than most piston stops on the market because air can flow out from between the gaps of the nuts. Which means compression is released allowing the engine to turn normally.

Overall cost - 6 bucks and a beat up old DCPR8E plug I was going to replace anyways.


Home Made Piston Stop

[Howie]

    

[SpikeC]

 I made mine out of a bamboo chopstick. Marked the btdc needled on the stick, and that was it.