Brake pad question - 749s calipers on S2R 1000 rotors

[superkain]

So, I'm back in the saddle again, and going to slap some 749s calipers on my S2R1000.

I'm looking around for pads, and thought I'd ask if anyone has done this and had a preference.  I used to use Vesrah for my sport bikes, and thought I might go that route again.

Thoughts?

[NAKID]

So, I'm back in the saddle again, and going to slap some 749s calipers on my S2R1000.

I'm looking around for pads, and thought I'd ask if anyone has done this and had a preference.  I used to use Vesrah for my sport bikes, and thought I might go that route again.

Thoughts?

Why? Are those the 4 pad calipers? Stock 4 pot on the S2R1000 are pretty good to begin with.

[Speeddog]

Ferodo CP1.

[BK_856er]

I have the predecessor to the Ferodo CP1, the CP211, on my 4-pad upgraded M695 and I like them a lot.  Not a criticism, but I need to watch the first brake application of each ride.  They need a bit of warmth in them to bite - goes with the territory I suppose.

BK

[Speeddog]

Indeed, they're a bit dependent on temperature, but it's not a big thing.

[manwithgun]

I have the predecessor to the Ferodo CP1, the CP211,

I have ran and loved the CP211 as well but hated how quickly they wear (3+sets a season on track).  The new CP1 is supposed to address this but I have yet to try them.  As with most carbon/ceramic pads, care should be taken to clear the rotor surface of the previous pad compound, especially if you were using a sintered metallic pad previously.   A pad can only work as designed once the material has been able to embed itself into the rotor surface and the less abrasive organic/carbon/ceramic compounds have a hard time doing this on their own if a metallic compound is already present.  Check the Ferodo site here for bed in and surface prep if you go that route. (I just take a flapdisk grinder to the rotor surface) NOTE: this is not required for routine pad changes, only when switching to a less abrasive compound.

http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=66:cp1-carbonceramic-brake-pads&Itemid=177

Personally, I do not like the 4-pad caliper (I have only used them with stock pads) but feel that the CP1 would be the best choice from the Ferodo line up (I'll actually go that route if I ever track my Monster again).   4-pad Brembos have a tendency to be snatchy with a lot of initial bite so I would highly recommend against aggressive compounds like XRAC or ZRAC.  In panic and late braking situations, you do not want too much initial braking force before the front tire has loaded. 

One trick is to chamfer the leading edge of all 8 pads.   Angling the bottom edge helps with wheel installation where doing the leading edge is supposed to help with "wedging",  a theory that suggests that at initial pad contact, the leading square edges get pulled in and causes a spike in bite.   If true, this is compounded with 4-pad calipers vs 2-pad...

[Speeddog]

I've got a single 4-pad caliper on a BrakeTech iron disc on my M750, and a pair of the same on my S4, both with CP211.
Very linear and predictable, not grabby.

My S4, with the OEM 2-pin calipers and OEM pads, was grabby, unacceptably so IMO.

[manwithgun]

 
Yeah, I too have ran a single 4-pad with great results.   I suppose that what I'm picking up on is that after riding a variety of different bikes and set-ups, going back to my dual caliper 4-pad with oem pads seems less than optimal...  I think we all agree that pad compound dictates feel, strength, and progression as much as the actual mechanical components.  Much of what I'm sensing must be from the oem pads.  I'm just trying to point out the obvious, that more bite isn't always a good thing.

[superkain]

I wound up ordering the Galfer FD262 pads, G1375.  I think it will handle what I'll throw at it.  Definitely need to oease them in when i first get them and see how it runs.   Thanks for the info on the Ferodos! I'll look into those later.