696 midpipe on 1100.

[stopintime]

The DesmoWorld piece allows the servo motor to operate as it normally does, but without actually turning/closing the valve. That means no check engine light. If you have the Duc.ee there is no need for it.

[Duc796canada]

if anyone has a 696 mid pipe they want to get rid of, let me know as well

[Raux]

if anyone has a 696 mid pipe they want to get rid of, let me know as well

[chaldoking]

Hey razor how much did you pay for your 696 mid pipe?

[rozer]

As promised here's a little write-up on replacing the midsection of the exhaust.
First let me excuse if I use incorrect technical terminology or describe certain things incorrectly.
My native language isn't English and don't know all the technical terms for some of the parts.
Please feel free to add comments or correct me when needed.


Step 1:
Remove the box that holds the toolkit that sits underneath the seat.

Step 2:
Disconnect and remove the servo cable and servo.
There is a washer that needs to be removed underneath the rubber dust cover.
It can be seen on the lefthand side of this picture:

DSC_4842 


DSC_4849

Step 3:
Remove the (slip-on) mufflers.

Step 4:
Loosen top bracket by removing the 4 hex bolts on the left- and righthand side of the subframe.
Also remove the center hex bolt which connect the gas tank to the bracket.

DSC_4858

Step 5:
Undo the hex bolts located underneath the gas tank.
These connect the subframe bracket to the bracket on the exhaust.
They were the only bolts which were a little fitly to get to.
I used the grip of a screwdriver to force the tank some 3-4 centimeters off the bracket.

DSC_4860

Step 6:
Loosen up the exhaust clamps situated to the right of the servo and behind the rear set.
There is also a hex bolt hidden away behind the rear set that needs to be removed.
I've also unfastened the header (cylinder side) of the vertical cylinder.

Step 7:
You should be able to remove the midsection of the exhaust and end up with this:

DSC_4862

Step 8:
Placing the 696 midsection should be reverse of removing the 1100 midsection.
I've test fitted the exhaust with mufflers without fastening all bolts.
My Arrow slip-ons have a tendency to line up wonky when installed with all bolts already fastened.

Step 9:
I've sourced a Duc.ee to eliminate the error message on the dash.
It can be held into place by the tie-rips that come with the duc.ee.

DSC_4864

I hope this write-up is helpful to all of you who want to remove the flapper from your 1100/796.
Note that some of the steps are interchangeable (like steps 5 and 6).
If you have any question I'll try to answer them promptly.
Cheers. 

[rozer]

Hey razor how much did you pay for your 696 mid pipe?

I've sourced the mid pipe from a local fleebayesque site for 75.00 EURO which amounts to 100.00 US(?).

[Raux]

you got a steal

[R0CKETMAN]

Great write up Rozer. I'll use it as a reference when I locate one. Thanks

[User24]

Did this today on an 1100 standard. Yes, it took this long to find a used 696 midpipe.

Special tools needed: 4mm stubby allen (for the hidden bolt behind the rearset). Without it, you will have to dissasemble the rearset/bracket.

Tips:

-When purchasing a used 696 midpipe, verify whether it includes 2 of the 74640081A "Special nut". These can fall out, so order those ahead of time if needed prior to the install, or you will have to steal them from the outgoing midpipe.

-I left the vertical cylinder exhaust flange alone, merely removed the nuts on the horizontal cylinder exhaust flange to drop it for clearance. Once that is completed, the original midpipe can be rotated to the right of the frame and lifted out.

-Symmetry of mufflers is possibly hit or miss depending on manufacturing tolerances. On mine, the right muffler with slipon termi sits closer to the license plate. I don't really care, and looking at my 696 with the mivv suono it is the same way. I suppose it is possible to shift the slip joints and fiddle around to get them closer to perfect, if you were inclined.