How can I get my bike to turn in faster?

[He Man]

I am puzzled as to why you ask the this question, given your post http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=8121.msg133610#msg133610

because I've already gone down the front as far as i can. I talked to a suspension guy and he said my shock is good for what it is now, if you raise the rear, you wont be able to compensate for the raise since you only have preload adjustments (and that lead to my many threads on a 999 shock conversion, but i'm still looking for one on ebay. I just bought a 998 Showa for cheap and waiting for its arrival to see if it fits.)

I would figure he knows that raising/lowering will affect the turn it, and is probably looking for other ways to get increased turn in without sacrificing the stability.  Really only way to do that is by manipulating the rake/trail and swingarm length, but the monster really isn't adjustable like the SBK is in that regard.

Yes, anytime you chance height, on the bike (and that includes chain tension on a SSS), you'll need to reset/re-check the sag/adjust preload.

again, read above. Raising the rear would require compensation. S2R1000 sachs shock has no way to compensate. But with the 998 shock thats comming, it might change, (thats if it will even fit).

At the risk if getting slapped around   Am I missing something here?  No where does it state what type of monster we're talking about?  How much the rider weighs, how tall,  turn-in speed or breaking rate?  Monsters do have a tendency to run wide accelerating or decelerating through corners.  Have you  taken it to the track yet?   Thats the best place to sort out suspension issues and work on your technique.  With the proper setup and riding technique I'd pit any comparably powered Monster against a similar geometey Buell.  Remember on most naked bikes rider positon is much more upright rasing the rider center of gravity enormously.  Which explains why many people replace the HB w/clip-ons.  My suggestion is not to throw riding stability out the window in favor of specific type of cornering .  As you push the geometry out of its nominal positions it will likely become more twitchy (unstable) when pushed to other riding limits and may do so rather unexpectedly. Finally if you do decide to alter the geometry to its limits I highly recommed a steering damper as a bandand to improve general stability.  BTW most swingarm links are set to the minimum ride heigth from the factory.

Good luck

Good call.

Specs:
2006 S2R1000, 5'6",
Racetech Goldin Valves + springs (sprung for 155lbs in the flesh, i was heavier at the time)
145lbs (in the flesh current weight)
If the rideheight link is set at a minimum then it is getting jacked up 1/4" when i get that new shock in. I wish i ha the $$ for a damper right now. Riding on the FDR in NYC yeilds TONS of headshake,anyone who has ridden the FDR knows what i'm talking about. mix of asphalt, potholes, tar (from patching up potholes), garbage, etc, my rear wheel gets unweighted and the bike likes to swirm around a lot. Everyone says the stock Monster spring is perfect for my weight, but it isnt.

No idea what numbers your looking for when you are saying turn in speed and breaking rate. I have tomaselli clip ons underneath the triple. With the bike's front lowered 10mm, im puting slightly more weight on the front, but since i am a relatively small guy, im still not hovering over the front.

You are defintely correct on throwing the stability out the window, in another thread about my forks, my front forks were damaged, and i only had about 3 inches of available travel on the forks. ( i have ~5 inches now of total available travel. so that measn my front was basically roped 2inches) durign that time, i had a frightening time on my bike. it was RIDICULOUSLY twitchy and completely unstable at any speed over 45mph.

perhaps time for sport touring tires next time instead of outright sport tires?    I know it's bike and rider dependant, but 6,000 commuting miles on nice soft rubber like that can have a very dramatic effect on how the bike feels.

folks often say they want the best tires "for that extra level of safety margin", but squaring off sticky sport tires is no safer than running the next level down on the track/street spectrum that will keep their profile longer if you're not riding just in the twisties.  And ignoring safety, the bike just feels bad with squared off tires.

Agreed, but i got these tires with the bike with only 2,000 miles on em! Im looking at Pilot Sports next year.

But as the previous post stated and Looking at my tire, it looks very squared of and  i think tires will do the trick. raising the rear by 1/4inch when i install the new shock  wouldnt be a bad idea either.

I would go up north to unsqaure those tires, but i dont like giving up my sundays in the fall ( FOOTBALL!!! cowboys vs packers right now). And Saturdays = Muay Thai Training 2-4pm + night time relaxing.

[moto-zen]

Going to a single rotor in the front would make a huge difference. You'll want to make sure to up the number of pistons in your remaining caliper. If you already have a single rotor, than completely ignore this post.

+ 11ty on the tires. A reduction in the weight of the tires alone can make the same difference as BSTs due to the reduction in rotating mass 

[He Man]

Going to a single rotor in the front would make a huge difference. You'll want to make sure to up the number of pistons in your remaining caliper. If you already have a single rotor, than completely ignore this post.

+ 11ty on the tires. A reduction in the weight of the tires alone can make the same difference as BSTs due to the reduction in rotating mass 

you kid, but the buell XB12R only has single rotor front.  (no joke)

[kopfjäger]

You should buy a Buell.

[moto-zen]

So do all the darks. I have two 320mm(i think), I've been thinking about going down to one. i don't go to the track    or live near any curvy roads so i wouldn't have to worry about brake fade. But from what I understand I have to get a different master cylinder, and then go with a 4 piston caliper for equal bite.

[Buckethead]

So do all the early darks.

My '03 620 Dark had 2 rotors and the 4-piston grabbers. Stock.

[Ducnial]

He Man - thanks for the details.     Sounds like your CG is about a low as it can go,  problem is you got low mass.   I suggesting getting a lighter spring for the rear, and raise the height ~10mm.    I would not drop the triple more than 20mm below nominal and set your sag  nominal.  The "numbers" I was referring to was a trying to get at your proficiency in aggressive riding.  With a Monster you can only do so much with geometry.  The rest is up you.  I weigh 160 and track my mostly stock S4Rt regularly and manage to drag both soft and hard bits and do a decent job of keeping with the pack.  To be honest it wont just fall through the corners,  you got to really help it by using proper body position and a little muscle.   If you haven't  experienced a full day of track riding your missing a whole nother dimension of riding.  Plus, at  least from my experience unless you live in the mountains, one day of track riding is worth a year of aggressive road experience.  In the end for your expectations,  a full blown sports bike (read 848)  might be a better fit.  

Good luck, make changes one at a time so you know what-did-what.


I think some folks are taking the fromt rotor thing seriously

[sydmonster]

My suggestion is a 160 section rear tyre. - Chris

[ICON]

My 2003, 620 turned-in like there was no tomorrow. I had Pilot Powers all around, Matris Damper, Matris Cartridge kit and a 999 Ride Height Rod installed. 999 rods are longer than S2r/S4R rods. I also had a Penske shock with ride-height. From the picks you can see she was pretty tall in the back... lot's of space between the rear wheel. I also lowered her up front just enough to clear the Motowheels clip-ons that were top mounted.

As you can see from the pic below, my Monster sits a lot higher in the rear than the other Monster.

Hope this helps you some way.