Termi/DP ECU kit problems - popping from Airbox

[CairnsDuc]

G'day all

I'm hoping somebody can tell me what could be causing the some issues with my new Termi/DP ECU/DP Air filter kit.

I just had them fitted to a S2R 800 07, we had some initial problems with the wrong ECU being supplied with the kit to start with, but after 6 weeks of dicking around with new computers and other stuff, the correct computer is now fitted.

A couple of issues have cropped, nothing to bad, just a little annoying and I wanted to see what others thought before taking it back to the dealer

1. very minor surging at constant/partial throttle openings, at first I thought it was just the normal jostling you get riding along our roads here in northern Australia, but I got on a brand new section of road that was ultra smooth, and sure enough it wasn't my imagination, it is surging, but it's so minor it's very hard to feel it on all but the smoothest of roads.

2. I went for a ride during lunch, bike's oil temp got to 105 degrees (C) and I pulled over to admire the view for a few mins, when I got back on and gently rode off, I got a couple of pops through the airbox, it's summer over here in Australia and the temp was about 30 degrees (c) with about 89% humidity, it coughed once more about 5 mins later.
It did this once before when I went home at lunch time, it was also a hot day, bike sat for about 15 mins, had a cough through the airbox as soon as I rode off, and then was OK.

The pop through the airbox is more like a cough, not very loud, but the bike loses power for the split second it does it, and then seems fine. could it be the hot engine heating the fuel and getting some pre-ignition of sorts?

When the kit was installed, the DDS system was used and the mixture reading was spot on and the TPS was also checked and set.

Any thoughts?

[brad black]

it's too lean.  wind the air bleeds in half a turn.

[CairnsDuc]

Thanks for that brad, I was hoping you might pop in with a suggestion 

Now for the silly question....

Where may I find said screws?
I have a rough Idea, but I just want to make sure before I start making adjustments.

Thanks.

[CairnsDuc]

In the Ducati service manual, are they what Ducati refers to as Bypass screws?

[Speeddog]

Small brass slot headed screws, down in little 'wells' in the throttle bodies.

Right hand side, directly rearward of the cable spool, left hand side directly below the TPS.

[Ducnial]

In my opinion...  A little bit of choppieness is normal for a DP ECU.  This is because the fueling is a lot richer. If you want good throttle response at the low end this is the price of that.   I switched to Iridiums and it improved somewhat.  As far a couging through the airbox , have them recheck the TPS and fuel pressure.  If throttle response is slugish it might be a fuel pressure issue.

[tbird245]

I had the Termi kit installed with the DP ECU and open airbox on my '07 Monster 695. The reason was because it, and many of the closed-loop Ducatis, run way too lean due to Euro3 regs and at that time the only cure was the Termi kit. I experienced the same coughing/surging as you before the kit, but I've had it installed for nearly a year and that problem has completely gone away. It runs perfectly. Yours should too, and for what you paid, I'd take it back to the dealer and make sure everything was installed correctly.

[CairnsDuc]

I will adjust the screws as Brad has suggested and see how that goes, It's only a minor issue and only when the bike is above 100 Degrees (C) a tiny amount of surging (and I mean tiny) does not worry me, like I say you have on billard table smooth roads to feel it (and there are only 1 or 2 of those here in Cairns)

It's more the cough through the air box that has me concerned.

I suspect with any big change on a bike like this there will be some minor adjustments needed to get it right, that's life, I'll try the screws, if that brings no joy, I'll return them to there original positions and get the dealer to have a closer look.

I'll report back with what I find. Thanks

[craigo]

CairnsDuc, I get a very similar pop through the airbox, pretty much the same specs as yourself (my07 s2r800, DP ECU, no cat straight through exhaust and DP open airbox).. when the engine is running warmish (~100C) I get an inconsistent POP! out the airbox, generally when I am rolling along with maintenance throttle after giving the bike a bit of a workout. The pop is disconcerting, especially if you are rolling around  corner (it's like a 1/4 of a second of chopping the throttle, followed by a loud POP, which is bad)


I am due for my 10K service within the next couple of weeks, I'll get it check out then and let you know if I have any joy.

[CairnsDuc]

I've made the adjustment as Brad said, the first thing I noticed is the Idle has dropped to 1000 rpm, but the bike is running cooler, I tried riding stuck behind some slow traffic and the bike normally get's pretty warm doing this, but this afternoon it seemed to be running cooler.

The hesitation is hard to detect, if it's there at all, I managed to get the temp up to around 100 degrees (c) and pulled over and shut the bike off for a few mins, restarted and rode off and it didn't pop at all.

I'm going to try it again in the morning when it's a little warmer.

Now I just have to lift my Idle back up. but so far it looks promising 

[Howie]

What you did with the air bleeds is make the bike ever so slightly more rich.  Now that you know that you confirmed a little richer solved your problem, you can either live with the lower idle or go to back to the dealer and have them reset idle speed and TPS.

[booger]

I have the DP ECU/open airbox w/ midpipe and partially cored stock cans on my 06 S2R800 -had the same cough through the airbox once in a while when I opened the throttle. Also have the 'slight' surge you are talking about. I can feel it @ partial throttle on smooth roads. I checked all the exhaust clamps and one exiting the midpipe was loose. After I tightened it the pop went away and the slight surging has become slighter. I also cleaned/regapped the plugs as the tips were a bit misaligned and the gaps weren't exactly correct (stock plugs). Plug color is normal but it seems that there are still some flat spots and very slight surging in the power delivery. Might be time for a PCIII.

[CairnsDuc]

I might just leave the screws where they are for now, I'll lift the idle a little just adjusting the idle screw, the bike is due for it's 12K km service very soon any way (it's got 11500 k's on it now) so another week or 2 it will go for it's first major service.

The day of it's service, I'll put it back to the old settings and let them sort it out so they can reset the idle and check the TPS.

[Speeddog]

Crappy running at low rpm is pretty standard for when the valves need adjustment.

I think you're on the right track.

[brad black]

I might just leave the screws where they are for now, I'll lift the idle a little just adjusting the idle screw,

you mean the screw on the throttle bodies covered in paint that you're not meant to touch?  adjusting that will make the tps reset procedure inaccurate because you've changed the baseline setting that never gets adjusted.  could make it worse.  get the idle mixture richened to suit the original air bleed position.

maybe ask them to check the idle mixutre as it is now and then once they've wound out the air bleeds to where they were get them to replicate the previous mixture.  do you know what they're setting the mixture to?