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Author Topic: Anodizing forks  (Read 7803 times)
jmoth79
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« Reply #15 on: January 24, 2011, 05:29:07 PM »


AND whatever anodizing you have done....be sure it's *hard* anodizing.  That way, it won't color fade and will provide a much tougher coating to the fork leg.
 

This is not true.  My anodizing specialist told me that there is no difference with respect to UV fading between normal or hard anodizing.  They both will fade eventually and at the same rate.
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« Reply #16 on: January 24, 2011, 06:56:46 PM »

This is not true.  My anodizing specialist told me that there is no difference with respect to UV fading between normal or hard anodizing.  They both will fade eventually and at the same rate.

Not my experience, nor that of anyone I know.

Caveat emptor.
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jmoth79
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« Reply #17 on: January 24, 2011, 07:16:47 PM »

Not my experience, nor that of anyone I know.

Caveat emptor.

UV fading is inevitable, but more a product of using organic dyes and improper sealing.  A more UV resistant ano uses an inorganic dye and a deionnized water / dichromate and/or teflon seal.
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« Reply #18 on: January 24, 2011, 07:21:47 PM »

I've seen regular Black Ano go purple in *weeks*, on a part that was indoors near a window, no direct sun.

My Hard Black Ano forks are still looking good, 10 months and counting.

A customer's set still looks good too, 2.5 years and 20k miles on 'em.
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« Reply #19 on: January 24, 2011, 07:24:20 PM »

UV fading is inevitable, but more a product of using organic dyes and improper sealing.  A more UV resistant ano uses an inorganic dye and a deionnized water / dichromate and/or teflon seal.

this is the main reason I  HATE anodizing.  colors never match and god help you if you buy one thing then try and match it with another anodized thing down the road.  its a crapshoot, sometimes it holds up and sometimes it doesn't.
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jmoth79
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« Reply #20 on: January 25, 2011, 09:19:41 AM »

I've seen regular Black Ano go purple in *weeks*, on a part that was indoors near a window, no direct sun.

My Hard Black Ano forks are still looking good, 10 months and counting.

A customer's set still looks good too, 2.5 years and 20k miles on 'em.

Again, this may not be a question of hard vs. normal.  It may be organic vs. inorganic dyes
along with the types of seal used.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2011, 05:26:33 PM by jmoth79 » Logged

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« Reply #21 on: January 25, 2011, 03:19:28 PM »

This is not true.  My anodizing specialist told me that there is no difference with respect to UV fading between normal or hard anodizing.  They both will fade eventually and at the same rate.

I find that hard to believe seeing as my experiences are similar to Speeddog's with regard to sun-fading.  I had a set of black-hard-ano forks on my CR for 5 years and they never appreciably faded.

YMMV...
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jmoth79
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« Reply #22 on: January 25, 2011, 05:28:32 PM »

http://www.finishing.com/379/70.shtml

Fading also seems to be a result from lack of seal.
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« Reply #23 on: January 26, 2011, 07:37:57 AM »

http://www.finishing.com/379/70.shtml

Fading also seems to be a result from lack of seal.

I stand corrected.  I'm guessing the outfit that did my hard-ano must have had it sealed.  Which raises the question, did they add the seal to just the outside of the fork-tube, or the inside also.  If they did on the inside also, did that have an effect on the hardness of the hard-ano with regard to wear from the bushings?

Thanks for the link!
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« Reply #24 on: January 26, 2011, 08:29:28 AM »

so... is there a consensus on a place worth shipping parts to for ano?

I want black hard-ano done on some parts. Some are already anodized (like a bracket here or there, or a fork tube).

Seems like a decent business could be made on doing a 4-week cycle for parts. First week of the month is hard ano, second week is gold, third week is silver, fourth week is red, and have wild card blue / black / green week every once in awhile.

If one person/company was doing this and it was predictable and uniform, then it would be a great asset.
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TAftonomos
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« Reply #25 on: January 26, 2011, 08:49:36 AM »

yeah....cept for the EPA.

Those chemicals are a pain in the ass to work with/keep safe.  I'd guess half the cost goes to the Govt/taxes/mandatory expenses because as you all know, the Govt knows best.  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #26 on: January 26, 2011, 08:52:13 AM »

That's a shame. I'm interested in learning to do it myself, but I need bare aluminum stock to practice with to go with the necessary chemicals. Gotta get it right before I go and wreck some nice part for one of the bikes or guns.
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« Reply #27 on: January 26, 2011, 08:55:03 AM »

I looked into it a few times.  For small bolts or parts, DIY at home isn't too bad. 

Caswell plating has all the stuff.

For large parts, forks, frame, etc....it's not even close to being cost effective.    I used to have no money and all the time in the world, so I did most stuff myself.  Now I've got a little sliver of money buy no time, so I send stuff off when I can.
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« Reply #28 on: January 26, 2011, 03:37:44 PM »

That's a shame. I'm interested in learning to do it myself, but I need bare aluminum stock to practice with to go with the necessary chemicals. Gotta get it right before I go and wreck some nice part for one of the bikes or guns.

you can get scrap aluminum frm a lot of shops. I have about 3 bucket full of raw aluminum scraps that i use to build various things with.
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jmoth79
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« Reply #29 on: January 28, 2011, 09:33:11 AM »







MIL-A-8625, Type III Hard Black Anodize w/ Nickel Acetate seal
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