S4RS - out of warranty so...

[Bill in OKC]

I decided to go a little deeper.  Removing/relocating radiator overflow bottle, removing idle stepper motor, swapping air box for pods.
Here is a set of ebay velocity stacks that were modified to accept pod filters - these have the Cagiva elephant logo

Here they are installed -

With pods test fitted

A 996 cold idle button...  The bottom half of a 996 throttle housing matches right up with the S4Rs throttle.  It will come in handy without the stepper motor

[DucHead]

If you haven't already, re-route the fuel lines to the left side.

[Bill in OKC]

If you haven't already, re-route the fuel lines to the left side.

That is a great idea.  I hadn't thought of that but it would keep them from blocking the belt covers and spoiling the view.  Thanks!

[DucHead]

That is a great idea.  I hadn't thought of that but it would keep them from blocking the belt covers and spoiling the view.  Thanks!

No problem.    I got some good pointers from Speeddog.  One of the best was adding quick disconnects with reversed  orientation of the feed and return lines so as not to confuse them when re-fitting the tank. 

I also re-routed the starter wire (around the left side).  It too runs past the belt covers (at least on the desmoquattro S4R).

That's gonna look awesome with the overflow bottle moved and the pods fitted...clear view through bike!!      

[TAftonomos]

Looks like you were degreeing the cams as well?

I've seen some nice quick disconnect fittings, but can't remember the brand.  Olympia or something?

Nice work!

[DucHead]

Looks like you were degreeing the cams as well?

I've seen some nice quick disconnect fittings, but can't remember the brand.  Olympia or something?

Nice work!

I bought brass, anti-backup quick disconnects from Omega.com, but I think they're all made by Colder Products.

[Capo]

996 Cold Idle Button? I thought it was a mechanical device.

[Bill in OKC]

It is hard to see in that photo so I tried to brighten it up.

Thanks for the lead on the disconnects!

[DucHead]

Here's the Omega.com page with the brass quick disconnectsL http://www.omega.com/pdf/tubing/couplings/ft-mcseries/ft-mcseries.asp

[Bill in OKC]

I ended up getting LCD10004 and LCD23006 (2 ea) - Thanks!

[Bill in OKC]

I think there is a change of plans.  After getting home and seeing what I have to work with, I am pretty sure the tank fittings cannot be modified because they are cast into the fuel pump flange (pic 1).  The ends on the hoses can be changed, but I'm not sure if they will mate up correctly.   I *think* the fittings on the fuel lines need the plastic ?clip-loop? (pic 2) to be secured to the cast-in fittings...  hmmmmmm  It looks like I can still re-route the hoses though.

[DucHead]

I was wondering what you were gonna do with the NPT threaded ends.   I forgot that our tanks are different, but I didn't know that the feed and return fittings on the tank were so different.  Makes sense since your tank is plastic (mine is metal).

Why not just go with the hose barbed ends?  Are the in/outlets from the fuel pump valved?  If so, I guess there's no reason for quick disconnects - you already have them. 

[Bill in OKC]

Yes they are valved (must be, because there is still fuel in my tank lol)  The thing I was interested in was getting rid of the plastic connects and replacing them with metal.  They ?seem? kind of weak - IMHO they are a problem waiting to happen.  Those thin plastic retaining clips will get old and break.  When that happens I'll be glad the tank connects are valved.

Does anyone know of a metal hose end replacement that is compatible with the fuel pump connectors?

[He Man]

I have a question.

Whats the point of a velocity stack with the flare cut off? wouldnt that kill the point?

[Speeddog]

Yes they are valved (must be, because there is still fuel in my tank lol)  The thing I was interested in was getting rid of the plastic connects and replacing them with metal.  They ?seem? kind of weak - IMHO they are a problem waiting to happen.  Those thin plastic retaining clips will get old and break.  When that happens I'll be glad the tank connects are valved.

Does anyone know of a metal hose end replacement that is compatible with the fuel pump connectors?

I'm not sure if the tank is valved or not, they don't leak when the lines are unhooked, but I think that's because of the fuel pump on the delivery side and the pressure regulator on the return side.
I think if either of those fittings broke it would be ugly.

The ends on the hose are not valved.

I'm not aware of a metal hose end that will mate up.
Doesn't mean they're not out there....