Chicken strips.

[VeryMetal]

Frankly I'm sick of hearing the phrase 'chicken strips', I don't care, probably the majority of this board doesn't care. However, recent experiences on my bike have got me thinking about them again.

I'm now at the point where I regularly lean the bike over and drag the pegs, I still have about 5mm of unused oily chicken strip on each side of the rear tire. Now if the pegs are in the way at that angle, doesn't that mean that it wouldn't be possible to go that far down on the tire without moving the rearsets or chopping the pegs? Thus making it impossible to banish said 'chicken strips' forever and ever. It's kind of a bummer because I feel like my riding technique has come a long way and I'm proud, maybe it's time for a different bike, something with geometry more conducive to an aggressive riding style?

My first big bike was an r6, but I never got to the level I am at now, so I didn't get to exploit the benefits of that bike. I love my monster but if it's not doing what I want it to...

Not sure if I should post this in this section but anyways.. I'm very interested to hear others experiences and opinions.

Ps; Mine's a 750 monster i.e. Dark.

[Spidey]

Now if the pegs are in the way at that angle, doesn't that mean that it wouldn't be possible to go that far down on the tire without moving the rearsets or chopping the pegs?

No.  Because your rear suspension is likely compressed at the point where you're on the edge of the tire, your clearance is more limited than when your rear suspension is uncompressed.  If you were to ride slightly differently so that your rear isn't as compressed or tweak your suspension or bike geometry (by raising the rear or dropping the forks, you may be able to get to that last bit of tire.  Also, if you change brand or type of tire, you may get rid of those strips  because different tires have different profiles. 

But don't measure the capabilities of the bike by whether you are dragging hard parts or whether you have chicken strips.  Many people have chicken strips on their race bikes and you *know* those bikes are made for an "aggressive riding style."  If you're scraping hard parts, it sounds like it's time for you to work on your body position (get off the bike a lot more) and--if you want to spend the $--work on your suspension.   Also, aftermarket rearsets might not be a bad idea at this point.

P.S.  Just for your reading pleasure, here's a thread about clearance on a monster.

[VeryMetal]

Thanks for the info! So by hanging off the bike more I'm assuming that I wouldn't necessarily be compressing the suspension as much or maybe by putting weight toward the front of the bike I'd let up a little on the rear shock allowing me more of an angle while maintaining a little more clearance height with my 'hard parts'. I think I understand this far but adjusting the rear shock isn't something I've had any experience with (yet) and I don't think my pocket book is ready for a suspension upgrade. I should probably buy a riding technique book...

On another note, a few more experienced riders I have spoken to have said it's not necessarily panic time when you scrape hard parts. You either scrape them and get comfortable with the feeling and possibility of it or you modify your riding style or bike so it doesn't happen. Any thoughts on this??

[Spidey]

Definitely buy a riding techniques book. 

The point of hanging off more is not about chicken strips, nor about allowing your rear suspension to compress less  (though it'll affect them).  When you hang off while going through the same turn on the same line, you stand the bike up more.  As a result, you'll have more clearance and you won't drag hard parts as easily.  That's what I was talking about.  In fact, if getting rid of chicken strips is your objective, hanging off won't work.  The more I hang off, the bigger my chicken strips are.  Until you really start speeding up, that is.  Then they go away again.  But don't do that yet.   

While it's true that you shouldn't panic if you drag hard parts, it's not ok to routinely drag them.  When you're leaned over and drag hard parts, they can lever your tires off the road, even if only a wee little bit.  It limits the traction you have available.  If you're dragging hard parts, it's time to do something about it.  The best thing to do is to slow down a bit and work on your riding technique.  If you do this for a coupla rides, when you speed up a bit, you'll go even faster and more safely than before.  You have to go slow to go fast.  The same is true with track riding and with racing.

Do you have your preload set-up for you?  If you don't know, then you don't.  With a measuring tape, a hammer, a screwdriver, a search of the DMF, and the help of a couple of friends, you can set the preload on your rear shock. 

[VeryMetal]

Just to clarify, I wasn't concerned with making the chicken strips go away, I was just trying to figure out whether there was any direct relation to them and the limitations of my bike or riding technique. I'm sure there is, talking about it in this forum will help me understand the specifics, so thanks for giving me the time of day 

I do understand the point of getting off the bike. It's obviously the way to go if you're giving yourself more clearance and thus less chance of scraping pegs etc.. A safer and more precise riding technique. I'm not coming from a macho 'look how fast I can go, you're chicken strips are bigger than mine' point of view at all, just interested in improving my technique.

I believe my suspension is set up for the previous rider who was the same weight as me, a little taller but the same weight. This is what I was told. I don't have definitive proof. Unfortunately I lack the experience to tell whether I'd benefit from having the preload adjusted. The most experience I have comes from dirt jumping and downhill racing mountain bikes but it's a completely different game really. Any advice on how to check my preload? Should it sag an inch, two? I'm sure there's a method, maybe someone can let me know. Also, my shock is the stock sachs one, I'm not sure if it has rebound adjustment, would it help me through turns (theoretically at least) if it did and it was adjusted?

Thanks again for all the help.

[Slide Panda]

I believe my suspension is set up for the previous rider who was the same weight as me, a little taller but the same weight. This is what I was told. I don't have definitive proof. Unfortunately I lack the experience to tell whether I'd benefit from having the preload adjusted. The most experience I have comes from dirt jumping and downhill racing mountain bikes but it's a completely different game really. Any advice on how to check my preload? Should it sag an inch, two? I'm sure there's a method, maybe someone can let me know. Also, my shock is the stock sachs one, I'm not sure if it has rebound adjustment, would it help me through turns (theoretically at least) if it did and it was adjusted?

Lee Parks book 'Total Control' has a section on adjusting suspension.  It includes how to measure sag and the equations to work out if you've got too much/too little.  So that might be a good book to snag as it covers all the topics you've asked about

[Jetbrett]

If in doubt or time limited, you can take it into your dealer and they will do it for you.  Its not a big job, but you need two people to get it done....you to sit on the bike and the other to measure.  I didn't have anyone I could call to help and paid $75 for the job (I only did the rear as my front suspension is not very adjustable).

[Spidey]

Any advice on how to check my preload? Should it sag an inch, two? I'm sure there's a method, maybe someone can let me know. Also, my shock is the stock sachs one, I'm not sure if it has rebound adjustment, would it help me through turns (theoretically at least) if it did and it was adjusted?

For any adjusting, the first thing to do is to check your sag.  You probably need two people to help out.  They have to lift the back of the bike while you measure.  And then one as to hold the bike and one has to measure as you sit on it.  And for the front, one has to hold the bars and another measure, while you sit on the bike.  The only thing you need for this is a measuring tape, preferably one in mms.  Sometthing like this -->



Here's a basic How-To for measuring sag (download "Setting Sag").  http://www.feelthetrack.com/tuning_guide.htm

If the sag is off, it's easy to change it on the rear.  You just need a hammer and a screwdriver or punch (or a spanner wrench).  You just hammer at the collar rings on the rear shock (yes, it'll mark 'em up.  Just accept it.) to increase or decrease preload.  More reload is when the spring is more compressed.  More preload means less sag.  Loosen the top one (not spring side), and then move the spring side collar around, and then remeasure your sag.  If it's off,  bash with a hammer and punch again to get 'em to move.  Then remeasure again.  Rinse and repeat.  For the front, if you have a 750, you can measure it, but you won't be able to easily adjust it.  Leave that up to a shop.

Edit:  Here's a pic of collar rings on a 696.  See those two black rings on the bottom of the shock with the little tabs?  That's what we're talking about.  Yours are probably on teh top of the shock instead of the bottom.

[Statler]

You just hammer at the collar rings on the rear shock (yes, it'll mark 'em up.  Just accept it.)

And if you have a newer bike with the plastic rings instead of aluminum ones, even an ohlins preload tool (with a companion to hold the other ring) will mark them up pretty badly...just deal with the function of good suspension tuning versus the aesthetics of pristine preload collars.  Only one of those options is a complete poser issue.   

[Spidey]

The new ones have plastic rings?!  That seems like a weird place to cut costs.  There are always the blingy, but really useful aftermarket preload collars if you have an Ohlins or Penske.



http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=PC

[Statler]

yeah...one ring is black plastic.    sucks.    Debating replacing it versus waiting and just putting in a remote preload adjuter (pricier).   If it's going to be a solo bike then who cares if the plastic is torn up....and if it's going to be a two-up bike then the remote hydraulic adjuster makes sense.


For now it's low on my list because once it's set it's set....but if I take a friend for a long ride I do like to crank on a little preload and then need to beat on the ring more.

I think so few people actually adjust their suspension that it was an easy spot to cut cost.   shame.

I like the collars you posted.   Are those holes for allen wenches to stick into and then provide the leverage to twist them or are they spaced for preload wrenches to snug in there?

[Cider]

I took the remote preload adjuster off my Ohlins and put on one of those collars like Spidey posted.  I think they're awesome.  I also got a really thin bearing that goes underneath to make it easier to adjust.  The collars aren't designed to work with a standard preload spanner wrench; instead there's a tool that looks like a bent piece of drill rod.

Oh yeah, I bought a Penske for the SV track bike this winter, and it comes with the same sort of collar stock.

Some links:

Collars: http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=PC
Adjustment tool: http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=DAS
Bearing: http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=TBK

[VeryMetal]

Thanks for all the advice, some interesting stuff came out of this topic. I'll get a couple friends over as soon as I can and measure everything out. I don't really care about my collars, I'd rather my suspension was set up properly.