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Author Topic: Stupid Reservoir Idea  (Read 8834 times)
Jarvicious
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« Reply #15 on: January 07, 2009, 11:47:58 AM »

I found these while browsing around.

http://www.apracing.com/info/products.asp?product=Original+Adjustable+Ratio+Master+Cylinder-CP3125+Family_2551_1095

I've never heard of the company, but they look pretty solid.  No pricing on the website though.  Capo, who makes those direct mount cylinders?  This is definitely somthing I've been looking into to clean up my front end. 

For your bobber project, PB, I agree with you.  You're probably not going to throw that thing around in the twisties too often and the reservoirs welded into the bar would look pretty trick.  Speaking of which, did you decide to go with the flat bars?
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« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2009, 11:52:28 AM »

You can argue it either way, I don't see what the problem is.

Too low?  As long as the system is bled properly, and the bike isn't upside down, I fail to see how any air is going to make its way through the reservoir, down the line and into the master.  Unless you are leaning the bike over 90deg, and even then I doubt it.

If there is enough fluid, and enough space in the resi, and a diaphragm there, I don't see what the problem is. 

If it's condensation you are worried about, you can always bleed the brakes periodically to solve that problem. 

In that case everyone out there that has replaced the reserviors with metal ones should be worried as well.

The rear brake resi/piece of line will work fine, but the front system moves a LOT more fluid, hence the resi needs to be much larger.
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« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2009, 11:55:27 AM »

Never heard of AP racing?  Right up there with brembo for real race stuff.

You can also machine a reservoir that would mount directly to the master cylinder.  Seen that, done that, works fine as well.  I'll look for a pic.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2009, 12:01:00 PM by TAftonomos » Logged

Capo
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« Reply #18 on: January 07, 2009, 01:29:32 PM »

There is allways these



Jarvicious , the 'pipe reservoir' can be obtained here http://shop.durbahn.de/shop/en/home
Be sure to check out the rest of his site if you are into weight saving

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« Reply #19 on: January 07, 2009, 02:07:14 PM »

^^^ Those are beautiful  Grin
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« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2009, 02:18:02 PM »

^^^ Agreed.  These are sites I don't need to be looking at.  Then again, I guess it's better to look at the high end shit like this than at Cyclegear or some other site where I'd be much more inclined to pick up something frivolous (and cheap).  The direct mount reservoir is so god damn clean. 
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« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2009, 02:25:18 PM »

You can also easily make the "pipe reservoir" by searching around for the proper tubing.  I might even have some of it in the garage somewhere (as I've done this with my rear brake).
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DucatiBastard
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« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2009, 07:51:58 PM »

yeesh, pricing for that "pipe" reservoir is about $136, before shipping from wherever they are at.  Seems like a lot for a piece of plastic tube and some caps...

TAft, can you detail what you used for yours?

BTW, I'm very curious to see what you're doing with you're bike, what with all the parts you're selling off of it...(something wickedbadassawesome?)
« Last Edit: January 07, 2009, 07:57:02 PM by DucatiBastard » Logged

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« Reply #23 on: January 08, 2009, 06:51:24 AM »

Tygon 2075 is the correct tube to use, has been used by plenty before.

Durbahn's kit comes with a neat little machined nipple, but the stocker seems to work just fine for me.  His also has a cool knurled plug on it.  I used a knurled fastener, and turned the threads off.  A bit of safety wire, and whala.

My bike?  Cut the rear subframe off it, and making an aluminum subframe for the tail.  Undertail exhaust, and all that jazz.   I can't decide between a 1098 tail and similar short can exhaust setup, or a jap tail/exhaust setup.

Other obsticle to overcome is the seat, and how to make it.  I've got to make the seat from from the indentations in the monster's tank into whatever tail I choose.  It's one of those things I've never attempted before....but anything can be done given time and some fab work.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2009, 06:54:16 AM by TAftonomos » Logged

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« Reply #24 on: January 08, 2009, 02:07:22 PM »

If you haven't used it before, blue or pink insulation foam works WONDERS for mockups.  You can cut until your hearts content and even add more if you make the beast with two backs up and go too low.  Might be a cool project to build a saddle out of insul foam, pour a mold in plaster of paris and then pour a real seat out of ballistics gel or some other cushy substance (a la Mythbusters).  If you mount the blue foam correctly you could even take it on short test rides.  With the right support the stuff is pretty sturdy. 

Errrrr, end threadjack.  Let us know if you go through with the direct bar mount res. 
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« Reply #25 on: January 16, 2009, 04:48:39 PM »



How does that fit into the MC?  The OEM plastic piece appears to be threaded (I haven't disassembled it).
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« Reply #26 on: January 16, 2009, 05:57:55 PM »

The plastic piece is not threaded, just held in place in the seal by a flange.
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« Reply #27 on: January 16, 2009, 06:13:58 PM »

The plastic piece is not threaded, just held in place in the seal by a flange.

I've looked at mine, and I didn't see a seal, nor does my shop manual show one.

How do you remove the elbow fitting/seal?
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« Reply #28 on: January 16, 2009, 06:37:37 PM »

It just pops in/out.  It's more like a nipple, as shown in the durbahn pic  waytogo

On another note, it's startling how inaccurate/wrong SO MANY things are in the factory service manual.  There are plenty of places in the fac manual where there should be at least SOME detail to the assembly of parts.  Take for instance the water pump seal.  No where in the manual is there a picture or even a text description of how the white plasic thrust washer is supposed to install....groove side in or out.  Better make sure you take pics when pulling it off.  Local dealer scoffed at me when I asked the question, and then couldn't answer it after reffering to their "expert tech".   bang head laughingdp Roll Eyes  Luckly I had a 999 sitting next to it, and had to disassemble that to confirm...

  It's areas like that where the Japanese really shine through.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2009, 06:41:17 PM by TAftonomos » Logged

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« Reply #29 on: January 16, 2009, 06:58:09 PM »

It just pops in/out.  It's more like a nipple, as shown in the durbahn pic  waytogo...

Thanks Theo.

On another note, it's startling how inaccurate/wrong SO MANY things are in the factory service manual...

Yeah, I photograph anything that's more than three steps!!!   laughingdp
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'05 S4R (>47k mi); '04 Bandit 1200 (>92k mi; sold); '02 Bandit 1200 (>11k mi); '97 Bandit 1200 (2k mi); '13 FJR1300 (1k mi); IBA #28454 "45"
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