Riding in Baja

[carraway]

Thanks for all the info.  "Pink Stew, huh"  All right then, California in May it is!

[DucME]

A friend of mine from many years back just posted his trip report on Baja at ADVrider.com.  His focus was more on off-road riding, but there was quite a bit of road riding and general discussion of the area.  It might be worth a read.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431402

[topangster]

I've been going to Mex to surf for 30 years (wait, does that make me old? )  Always drove though, never on a bike.  I've never had any problems, beyond the occasional $20 shake-down for bullshit traffic violations.

That said, the vibe down there now, at least in the Rosarito-Ensenada corridor, is vastly different than in years past.  I was just down in January, got some excellent waves. but it was a little spooky.  The cops are REALLY on edge, which isn't surprising considering that they're locked in a life or death struggle against the drug cartels now.  Some local police were filling up their trucks at the same gas station as me just south of Puerto Nuevo, a place i've been going for years.  They were standing guard around their trucks with M-16s, and it did NOT look like it was just routine.  They were scared.

We also went ATV riding at a place right near there, a place we always go to when we're down, and the guy who rented us the bikes told us TEN PEOPLE got shot there in November.  Broad daylight hit on a guy who was there ATVing on a Sunday - they took out his whole party and some bystanders.  Kind of explained why there was no one else renting ATVs when we were there...

Things are less hot south of Ensenada, and the main highway isn't that bad.  And most of the violence is directed at those involved on one side or the other in the drug war.  You'll probably be fine.  I'd do it, I'd just want to be in a large enough group that we could deal with any trouble that might crop up.  Wouldn't want to be stuck down there alone.  Oh yeah, and don't ride at night.

[Raux]

I've been going to Mex to surf for 30 years (wait, does that make me old? )  Always drove though, never on a bike.  I've never had any problems, beyond the occasional $20 shake-down for bullshit traffic violations.

That said, the vibe down there now, at least in the Rosarito-Ensenada corridor, is vastly different than in years past.  I was just down in January, got some excellent waves. but it was a little spooky.  The cops are REALLY on edge, which isn't surprising considering that they're locked in a life or death struggle against the drug cartels now.  Some local police were filling up their trucks at the same gas station as me just south of Puerto Nuevo, a place i've been going for years.  They were standing guard around their trucks with M-16s, and it did NOT look like it was just routine.  They were scared.

We also went ATV riding at a place right near there, a place we always go to when we're down, the the guy who rented us the bikes told us TEN PEOPLE got shot there in November.  Broad daylight hit on a guy who was there ATVing on a Sunday - they took out his whole party and some bystanders.  Kind of explained why there was no one else renting ATVs when we were there...

Things are less hot south of Ensenada, and the main highway isn't that bad.  And most of the violence is directed at those involved on one side or the other in the drug war.  You'll probably be fine.  I'd do it, I'd just want to be in a large enough group that we could deal with any trouble that might crop up.  Wouldn't want to be stuck down there alone.  Oh yeah, and don't ride at night.

Ok gotta say, IF i were planning a trip.. after that post, i would be buying a gun and stacking up sand bags around my house and screw going to mexico.

[Keith]

I've driven/surfed Baja for years and done the Cabo round trip drive 3 times.  It is an intense, incredable experiance.  Be carefull on a Motorcycle as there can be pot-holes the size of a small cow.  The reports of violence are real but your risk can be mitigated.  Make sure you plan your trip so that you go through Ensenada - the border in the middle of the day.  Make sure that you fill up your gas tank in Ensenada and you do not get off the toll road.  Do not be flashy, do not speed at all in the northern towns, do not stop.  If you get pulled over by the police; stop in a well populated area and do not "follow" them off the highway.  Many of the police are on the payrolls of the cartels.  There are also plenty of fake police/kidnapers.
Look up the story from Surfer magazine about the car Jacking.
I have a wife and young kids.  There are plenty of great rides North of the border to keep me happy. I personally will wait a few years before going back to Baja.  It is a great place with great people and I can not wait to go back; just not now.

good luck to you,

[sportskid1]

I used to take a few trips a year to Baja to surf and I agree that thing has changed quite a bit over the last few years for the worse.  The last two times I have gone down there I have been outright robbed by the police.  The last time I didn't bring much money figuring I couldn't loose much that way.  I got pulled over for a "random search" where he found an "illegal Knife" so the cop nicely escorted me and my friends to the nearest ATM and demanded $600 or he was just going to tow my car.  No bargaining here.  A few months after that a friend's mom was kidnapped in San Diego and was found murdered just south of the boarder.  I sucks as it is such a beautiful area and the locals are so nice but I will not be down there for a while.

[Raux]

yeah Mexico isn't such a safe place right now

http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/americas/02/18/mexico.drug.violence/index.html

[sally101]

"It isn't safe in Mexico right now" is a gross generalization...

It's a big place.. Baja is a big place..

There are problems in the border towns right now.. That means you spend the night in San Diego and ride past Ensenada on day 1 if you are paranoid.

After that it's all rural farm folk until La Paz and Cabo.. And quite nice ones.. My dad lives in Mulege and just did this drive 3 days ago. No problems..

The good news is that the peso is down to around 14/1 making things cheaper. The better news is that hotels are hurting because of the economy and rooms are cheap.. Dad stayed in the penthouse in and Ensenda hotel for $50.

[Raux]

true, a generalization. but you do have to go through those towns.

[Popeye the Sailor]

"It isn't safe in Mexico right now" is a gross generalization...

It's a big place.. Baja is a big place..

There are problems in the border towns right now.. That means you spend the night in San Diego and ride past Ensenada on day 1 if you are paranoid.

After that it's all rural farm folk until La Paz and Cabo.. And quite nice ones.. My dad lives in Mulege and just did this drive 3 days ago. No problems..

The good news is that the peso is down to around 14/1 making things cheaper. The better news is that hotels are hurting because of the economy and rooms are cheap.. Dad stayed in the penthouse in and Ensenda hotel for $50.

Yeah but...you know where you're going, you're used to the area- AKA you don't resemble a clueless, vaguely lost twit, as the majority of us would. Out of place people are prime targets, anywhere.

[Keith]

My take is that we are not riding on indescreet, quiet machines where we can easily drive through unnoticed.  The kidnappings are very real and, if anything, target people with a greater ability to cough up ransome.  Baja is a great place and it is true that the majority of the violence is in the northern 100 miles, but there are some bad stories that really hit home.  In my assesment of risk/reward, I will avoid Northern Mexico and find another place to play.

[angler]

New State Department travel alert posted today for Mexico - http://www.travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/pa/pa_3028.html

Quote:
"Common-sense precautions such as visiting only legitimate business and tourist areas during daylight hours, and avoiding areas where prostitution and drug dealing might occur, can help ensure that travel to Mexico is safe and enjoyable."

Avoid prostitutes and drug dealing?  How is that a good vacation  !!

Seriously, though, they don't say don't go, just be wary.....

[carraway]

Just wanted to say thanks again to all that posted.  The replies remind me what a great community we have here at the forum.  I was unaware of all the strife down south, more importantly the warning concerning prostitutes and drug dealers sealed the deal...who will I have to hang around with at the end of the day.  Going to take a trip in Nevada and Calif and save Baja for another time.

Thanks Again

[DuciD03]

Perhaps a wise choice given the underground war that's happening at the moment.  (would i take my monster for a trip down the baja at the moment right now? .... perhaps not ...) 

But I do have to say that in 2006 I flew to S Baha, Loreto, spent a week driving a rented car north to Mulege (great twisties!); and to the west coast to Bahia Magdelina and also into the mountains to the first (?) established mission at San Javier and kayaked for a week in the sea of cortez ... the people were friendly and helpfull every day ... I did go through a military checkpoint and they were through; and they were carrying AK 47's and it was slightly intimidating; but no problemo's.  Had to watch for cattle; lack or missing road sighs; it all just reminded me of how we have expectations in North America that just don't hold in the rest of the world; especially in a 2nd world country.  Go with the attitude to expect the unexpected and you woult be caught in an unexpected situation; were all "norte americanos ricos" (rich).   Food was good; had to watch water and what you ate; but had no problems that way too .... I was kept up late by a band till 2 am but that was a Friday night if you cant beat em joint em ... olay!

[sally101]

Perhaps a wise choice given the underground war that's happening at the moment.  (would i take my monster for a trip down the baja at the moment right now? .... perhaps not ...) 

But I do have to say that in 2006 I flew to S Baha, Loreto, spent a week driving a rented car north to Mulege (great twisties!); and to the west coast to Bahia Magdelina and also into the mountains to the first (?) established mission at San Javier and kayaked for a week in the sea of cortez ... the people were friendly and helpfull every day ... I did go through a military checkpoint and they were through; and they were carrying AK 47's and it was slightly intimidating; but no problemo's.  Had to watch for cattle; lack or missing road sighs; it all just reminded me of how we have expectations in North America that just don't hold in the rest of the world; especially in a 2nd world country.  Go with the attitude to expect the unexpected and you woult be caught in an unexpected situation; were all "norte americanos ricos" (rich).   Food was good; had to watch water and what you ate; but had no problems that way too .... I was kept up late by a band till 2 am but that was a Friday night if you cant beat em joint em ... olay!

That's pretty much the exact experience I have had.. That area is really cool and yes there are some great twisties that are in pretty good shape. The Military checkpoints are to stop the drug runners. They are cool. They just give you the token look in the back of your car and wave you on.

There are more dangerous places in the US, but people get freaked by the different language and the fact that's it a different country. Once you experience REAL Baja (south of the border towns) your perspective will change. In many ways it is how the rural US used to be.

One minor correction.. The military does not carry the AK47.. It's the German made H&K G3.