696 replace front sprocket

Started by OstOgBajer, March 07, 2009, 03:18:09 PM

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OstOgBajer

I have a 14t front sprocket I want to put on my 696, but I need some help. The clutch slave cylinder is in the way of getting the chain off. Am I able to remove the slave cylinder to get the chain/sprocket off or am I going to have to break the chain?

I read that the older monsters, you can remove the slave cylinder, but is it the same for the 696? Is there anything tricky to unbolting and removing the slave cylinder? What about torque specs for reinstalling it?

Any help REALLY appreciated. Thanks!

aaronb

just unbolt it.  nothing tricky.  the only thing that will happen is the piston will extend within the bore, but it is not a big deal, it won't come out.  when you put it back the clutch rod will push it back into position. 
Milwaukee, WI
'07 s2r1k, '81 honda cb400t

OstOgBajer

I couldn't get it off even with the cylinder slid out. The rearsets kept the chain from coming out further after that (and those bolt all the way through the bike and the engine). I had to brake the chain. But now I'm in another predicament.

I broke the chain and got a D.I.D. master link (520 VM) which I was told would work. Was told, "as long as it's 520, it'll work." BUT... when installing it, it took more effort than it should have to push the master link pins into the chain. Once it was installed, the link was not able to pivot. Looking at the chain, there is 520V6 marked on each plate, while the master link I have is 520VM. Do I need to get a 520V6 master link? I saw a video on YouTube of a Ducati tech installing a new chain, and when he put the master link in it slid right into place. This did not happen with me.

Also, i didn't know there was a master link in the chain already (sketch it up to me being a moto-n00b), so I randomly removed a "normal" link. Was this bad?

I'm a little peeved now because I'll have to wait until Monday to do anything about it since all the shops and dealers are closed on Sunday...

bryant8

#3
I'm in the Dallas area and have a chain press and a spare master link for a 520 chain. .  Send me a PM if you want some help.  [thumbsup]

BTW, IIRC Cyclegear is open on Sundays.

Edit, I think I have an EK master
2008 848
Mods: Full Termignoni Race Exhaust/ECU Tuned by AMS, Ducati Performance Dry Clutch Slipper Clutch, Öhlins steering damper
Next: Öhlins TTX shock and Öhlins fork internals, track body work
26.2 done 12/5/2010
70.3 by 10/12/2011
140.6 by 12/31/2012

OstOgBajer

Thanks for the offer. I'm 4 hours away though... in San Antonio. I have the tool myself, I just have to wait to get a link  :(

Is your link the 520V6? Did you have to get it from a Duc dealer or have it special ordered or anything? I'm assuming I can go to my dealer on Monday and pick one up, right? Nothing out of the ordinary?

I'll drop by Cycle Gear and see if they have a link. Moto Liberty is where I got the 520VM link. The owner is a cool guy and very helpful. Rides Ducs himself. I guess he just didn't know there would be a difference in links as long as it was 520.

Speeddog

My chain supplier made it clear that mixing master links across brands was not a good plan.

I would think that as long as it was a DID master going on to a DID chain, it should be alright.

Perhaps a DID website might be of some help...
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

bryant8

Thanks for that info Speeddog  [thumbsup]

I was under the assumption that it's a DiD chain the DiD master was going on.
2008 848
Mods: Full Termignoni Race Exhaust/ECU Tuned by AMS, Ducati Performance Dry Clutch Slipper Clutch, Öhlins steering damper
Next: Öhlins TTX shock and Öhlins fork internals, track body work
26.2 done 12/5/2010
70.3 by 10/12/2011
140.6 by 12/31/2012

OstOgBajer

Anyone know what chain comes on the 696? If it's the stock 696 chain, do I need to go to the dealer for a master link?

Searching for info on the 696 is a pain in the butt... I rarely find any technical info on it. But I can find plenty on older monsters.

OstOgBajer

Hrmm... now I'm concerned. If I forced the wrong link into the chain... could I have screwed up the chain or weakened the links connected to the master link?

needtorque

Yes, as you have found out the diameter of the rods on the master links are not the same for all chains.  I think if you can get it back out you will be fine you will have 2 master links install buuut, the way I have always looked at something like that is if one master link is fine than another one in a different part of the chain will not hurt anything.  I mean they are either strong enough or they are not so 1 vs. 2 really cant make a difference.
Who insures the FDIC?

OstOgBajer

Ah well... live and learn, eh?

I had to use the chain tool to press the pins out, but I was able to remove the master link.

Still searching trying to find the manufacturer of the OEM chain. Even then, Cycle Gear may not have the proper master link.

I haven't ridden my bike all day... I'm almost tempted to just go buy a new chain in the morning so I can ride tomorrow!  [roll]  ;D

OstOgBajer

#11
Umm... just noticed... (feel like a moron... again... I'm on a roll today) the stock chain is manufactured by D.I.D. It's stamped on the plates.

So now the only difference is the chain's plates are stamped with 520V6, while the master link is stamped 520VM. I couldn't find any chain called 520V6 on the DID website. Found the 520V and 520VM, but no 520V6.

The 520V is O-ring, while the 520VM is X-ring. I'm going to see if Cycle Gear has the 520V and maybe that will work...

Smokescreen

Just because both the cahin and your new master are DID does not mean they have the same pin diameter, and as you've already flared connecting links on both sides, putting the correct master in will leave you with one 'looser' than the others link.  Maybe nothing will come of this but a little accelerated wear, but I personally would be very cautious.  you've compromised your chain.  Have you ever seen what happens when a chain breaks at pace?  Sufficed to say, the repairs generally exceed the $120 price tag of a shiny new X-ring chain.  You may want to consider biting the bullet and just getting a new chain.  and as you've put on a different size sprocket, you can take the opportunity to adjust the chain length accordingly.

IMHO
Catching a yellow-jacket in your shirt at seventy miles per hour can double your vocabulary. 

Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

OstOgBajer

Quote from: Smokescreen on March 07, 2009, 11:03:08 PM
Just because both the cahin and your new master are DID does not mean they have the same pin diameter, and as you've already flared connecting links on both sides, putting the correct master in will leave you with one 'looser' than the others link.  Maybe nothing will come of this but a little accelerated wear, but I personally would be very cautious.  you've compromised your chain.  Have you ever seen what happens when a chain breaks at pace?  Sufficed to say, the repairs generally exceed the $120 price tag of a shiny new X-ring chain.  You may want to consider biting the bullet and just getting a new chain.  and as you've put on a different size sprocket, you can take the opportunity to adjust the chain length accordingly.

IMHO

That is what I was thinking, but didn't want to jump the gun without anyone offering that advice. I'll probably get a new chain for safety and a feeling of confidence that I'm not riding with a weakened chain that could lock up my rear while being followed by an 18 wheeler...

Makes me wish I would have gotten a larger rear sprocket and new chain to begin with instead of the 14t...

aaronb

i know it is too late, but it would have been much easier to pull the rearset off.  three bolts and the shift linkage... assuming it is mounted similar to the S*Rs
Milwaukee, WI
'07 s2r1k, '81 honda cb400t