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Author Topic: Broken Frame Slider Removal - (Problem Solved - Thanks!)  (Read 2546 times)
soundguy
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« on: March 29, 2009, 12:16:27 PM »

I am having trouble getting my broken frame slider "coupling nut" off of the bike so I can put the new frame sliders on.
These are the cycle cat frame sliders, and the bike is an 06 S2R.



The problem is that I can not get a grip on the broken piece with any kind of wrench, and the bolt on the other slider which is still intact is just rotating the entire assembly.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

BTW, the cycle cat sliders did a bang up job of preventing damage to the rest of the bike.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 08:02:52 PM by soundguy » Logged
Howie
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« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2009, 02:20:30 PM »

The through piece is a rod with threads on either end.  Take the nut off the other side and push the rod through.
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Mike_D
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« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2009, 03:49:05 PM »

I am having trouble getting my broken frame slider "coupling nut" off of the bike so I can put the new frame sliders on.
These are the cycle cat frame sliders, and the bike is an 06 S2R.



The problem is that I can not get a grip on the broken piece with any kind of wrench, and the bolt on the other slider which is still intact is just rotating the entire assembly.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

BTW, the cycle cat sliders did a bang up job of preventing damage to the rest of the bike.

I recently had the same thing happen with my Cycle Cat sliders, but I was able to get the other slider off and push the rod through.

From your pic, it looks like you could get a pair of vise grips on the broken slider and frame (put a piece of cardboard or other kind of padding so you don't scratch your frame) to prevent the assembly from spinning while you take off the other slider.  Then it's just a matter of tapping the rod through.
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2008 S2R 1k.  Black.  Pazzo Levers, 14 t front sprocket, CRG Hindsight LS mirrors, Cycle Cat Frame Sliders,  Oberon open clutch cover and gold/black EVR pressure plate, full Arrow exhaust with reflashed and mapped ECU, tail chop with gold Rizoma Avio 21 turn signals, Ohlins rear shock and Rizoma fluid reservoirs.
Ducnial
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« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2009, 03:59:34 PM »

Looks like there might be just enough meat left to get a pair of channel locks or vise grips on.  Only HOLD not twist the broken side with the CL or VG and attempt  to unthread from the other side. Cut a hole in a thin piece of plastic [milk jug or water bottle] and put over the broken part to protect the top of the frame boss. An impact wrench will be much more effective in loosening it over brute force. wouldn't hurt to squirt a little penetrent on the thread the night before.

Good luck
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soundguy
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« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2009, 08:02:18 PM »

I did get the nut removed.  I ended up threading a bolt into the broken nut as best as possible, even though the threads were pretty much destroyed.
I then clamped a wrench onto the bolt and what was left of the coupling nut, which held well enough for me to loosen from the opposite side.

I was surprised that instead of the opposite side slider unscrewing, the long bolt through the engine actually pushed the broken side out.  But it worked!

Thanks.
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Punx Clever
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2009, 10:35:36 PM »

a bit late for you... but there is a tool called an Ez-out.  Basically, it looks like a tapered drill bit with a very slow (1 turn in 9 inches or something, similar to rifling in a barrel), very sharp left hand twist.  You usually drill a hole of the proper size for your ez-out in whatever fastener is stripped/snapped stick the ez-out in there and as you try to unscrew the "teeth" grab in the hole and unscrew whatever is stuck.  Seems like you had enough thread left that it could get a good bite.
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2008 S2R 1000 - Archangel

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.  - HST
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