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Author Topic: powdered fork tubes (new pic on page 3)  (Read 15212 times)
acemoney
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« Reply #30 on: April 09, 2009, 03:41:47 PM »

Anodizing is sooo much easier on the install.
if your looking for the EASIEST way than that would be to just leave them alone and not do anything. if your looking for the best MATCH to the rest of your bike then if you have a spray painted bike i'd say spray paint them....if your bike anodized then ano them and so on and so forth. to each his own i guess.
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TiAvenger
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« Reply #31 on: April 09, 2009, 03:53:18 PM »

if your looking for the EASIEST way than that would be to just leave them alone and not do anything. if your looking for the best MATCH to the rest of your bike then if you have a spray painted bike i'd say spray paint them....if your bike anodized then ano them and so on and so forth. to each his own i guess.

I wouldn't knock spray paint

(My old bike)

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ProTeal55
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« Reply #32 on: April 10, 2009, 05:39:32 AM »

Big fan of spraypaint, but Powdercoating is MUCH more durable..
My bike will end up being a blend of both  Evil

Crazy how much better a blacked out front end makes these bikes waytogo
« Last Edit: April 10, 2009, 09:52:50 AM by ProTeal55 » Logged

ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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acemoney
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« Reply #33 on: April 20, 2009, 04:33:06 PM »

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He Man
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« Reply #34 on: April 20, 2009, 06:59:45 PM »

nice. did you properly torque down the forks?

i had to torque my sprocket carrier on 2mm thick PC and the PC cracked. lol
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acemoney
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« Reply #35 on: April 20, 2009, 08:01:00 PM »

nice. did you properly torque down the forks?

i had to torque my sprocket carrier on 2mm thick PC and the PC cracked. lol

nice indeed. no i didn't torque properly. just tightened them down as tight as can be.  from my understanding powder doesn't crack, how did yours crack?
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junior varsity
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« Reply #36 on: April 21, 2009, 01:09:10 AM »

you really ought to torque to the right settings, chief. Its your suspension we are talking about here. Not your gauge cluster, or some cosmetic bit. You hit a big bump and things shift, you've got problems. You tightened it too tight, hit a bump and the fork breaks, you've got problems. Couple of places torquing the bolts correctly really matters: brakes and suspension.
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acemoney
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« Reply #37 on: April 21, 2009, 03:06:46 PM »

you really ought to torque to the right settings, chief. Its your suspension we are talking about here. Not your gauge cluster, or some cosmetic bit. You hit a big bump and things shift, you've got problems. You tightened it too tight, hit a bump and the fork breaks, you've got problems. Couple of places torquing the bolts correctly really matters: brakes and suspension.

i mean you probably have a point but can anyone tell me the proper torque specs for a guesstimated amount of powdercoated fork tube bolts? if not then i'm gonna have to guesstimate the torque. cause my guess is now that they have powder on them they not the same torque. have you really seen or have any pics for that matter of a fork broke off from being too tight? cause (althought you are more than likely right) i've heard to many fictious stories about people overreacting to made up stories they've heard. right now i have other issues, like getting the damn bike running again, forks can't break if i can't ride. so if my research turns up the proper specs by the time i get it running they will be torqued properly, if not then i will be praying to the bike gods that i don't hit a bump and have my forks snap.
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junior varsity
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« Reply #38 on: April 21, 2009, 03:51:31 PM »

no, but i've heard of somebody over-torquing the fork tube and damaging the tube, no riding even done. they were using a far-too long ratchet so they didn't realize how much torque they were applying.
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NorDog
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« Reply #39 on: April 21, 2009, 04:04:14 PM »

I think the best course of action is to torque to the standard setting and let it go at that.
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ProTeal55
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« Reply #40 on: April 21, 2009, 04:17:27 PM »


Blacked out front end looks great my man..
Cant wait to get my bike all back together..
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ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Joe
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bmonty72
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« Reply #41 on: April 21, 2009, 04:20:34 PM »

I think the best course of action is to torque to the standard setting and let it go at that.

Wouldn't the torque value stay the same?  You may get to the torque value in fewer turns due to the greater diameter of the fork tubes...or am I speaking out of my A$$ Huh?
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acemoney
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« Reply #42 on: April 21, 2009, 04:25:11 PM »

no, but i've heard of somebody over-torquing the fork tube and damaging the tube, no riding even done. they were using a far-too long ratchet so they didn't realize how much torque they were applying.

 that's far from forks breaking from hitting a bump. mine all tightened down with no damage, score one for noobie (at least for now haha)! i know your just trying to look out for me and i thank you for that. i'm obviously betting against anything bad happening to my forks as they are strapped and ready to roll on my bike......now if i could just figure out my many other issues i could test them out.
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acemoney
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« Reply #43 on: April 21, 2009, 04:36:36 PM »

Wouldn't the torque value stay the same?  You may get to the torque value in fewer turns due to the greater diameter of the fork tubes...or am I speaking out of my A$$ Huh?

i have no idea. i'm not a math major nor a fork/powder expert. the things that float in my crazy head are.....the powder is softer than the raw metal on the forks so better to tighten a little extra and if there is give in the powder to make up for it with a little extra tightening.
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NAKID
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« Reply #44 on: April 21, 2009, 05:02:18 PM »

I would be worried that if you hit a hard bump, the powder could crack and the forks would slide up in the triples....
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