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Author Topic: S2R 800 -> S2R 1000 brake conversion  (Read 13690 times)
hackers2r
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« on: May 04, 2009, 06:38:35 AM »

There is a 20mm difference in rotor size between these two bikes' rotors.  Does anyone know if the S2R 1000's brakes (calipers and rotors) will bolt up to my S2R 800?
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Duck-Stew
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2009, 08:27:08 AM »

Yes.  The 320mm rotors coupled with the 65mm mount spacing 4-piston/2-pad calipers will bolt right on (stock brake set-up off of an S2R1000).
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red baron
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2009, 08:57:39 AM »

Yes.  The 320mm rotors coupled with the 65mm mount spacing 4-piston/2-pad calipers will bolt right on (stock brake set-up off of an S2R1000).


dontcha need a new master too?
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2009, 09:05:10 AM »

You don't "need" one.
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hackers2r
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2009, 10:51:47 AM »

Thanks guys...duck-stew...any opinion on the necessity of a new master for this setup?
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Duck-Stew
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2009, 11:15:02 AM »

Thanks guys...duck-stew...any opinion on the necessity of a new master for this setup?

You can run the one you have on there but because it's smaller bore (IIRC), it will require more lever movement in order to actuate the 4 pistons than it does to actuate the 2 pistons you have now (that's a per caliper count).
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2009, 12:37:38 PM »

The difference is not as great as going from single disc to dual disc on the older bikes.  As Stew said, the travel will be longer, but hey, give it a try, you might like it.
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hackers2r
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« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2009, 04:07:34 PM »

Last question, does anyone know if there is a difference b/w the S2R 1000 setup and the golden braking upgrade offered by Ducati?
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NAKID
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« Reply #8 on: May 04, 2009, 04:20:33 PM »

Nope, just the color...
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« Reply #9 on: May 04, 2009, 05:16:48 PM »

i've been trying to figure out what I need to switch from coffin masters to the remotes, and I'll be honest, only because they look better and there's more aftermarket levers for the remote-style.  my wallet says to do it cheaply and keep the same calipers, but I can't seem to figure out what masters/lever combo works with my calipers... bah.

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« Reply #10 on: May 04, 2009, 06:06:52 PM »

This is easier than you are thinking.

What is your caliper setup?

If you have a single front caliper, you can get a 16x18 Brembo Radial Front Master
If you have two front calipers, you can get either a 19x18 or 19x20 Brembo Radial Front Master. There is a new series from Brembo out now that allows you to order one caliper and choose whether you are in a x18 or a x20 mood. The difference is "feel" and abruptness of braking action.

Then you just get some brake reservoir tubing and the reservoirs you like. You can get inexpensive, easy to replace and see through (easy to check the level) brembo reservoirs, or more bling Rizoma reservoirs. If you get the Brembo's, you can replace the caps to Rizoma Caps or several other manufacturers' billet caps so you don't have corrosion issues.

Check eBay or the parts classifieds here regularly for deals on the Goldline Masters. My 900 came with a set back in the day, sold 'em off on the DML parts list (prior to the existence of the DMF) when I switched to the Radial masters.

Not a lot of rocket science to brakes. You squeeze at the lever, it displaces fluid, the further it pushes the fluid, the further the calipers move the pads toward the rotors. Brake fluid is a (near) incompressible fluid, so you squeeze here, it squeezes there. if your master does squeeze a lot of fluid (say the 16x18) then using it to move the fluid in two calipers would be less effective then the 19x18. right on?
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« Reply #11 on: May 04, 2009, 06:32:39 PM »

The only tricky stuff, and its not really that tricky if you know what you got - is the rotor & caliper offset. Older calipers are also interesting in that they went through a series of changes - started as 40mm single pin, and changed to 65mm two pin. The pistons are the same size though at 30/34.

Here's the short list off the top of my head for the Brembo Calipers using a traditional "axial" mount (vs radial mount):

Single or Double Pin Goldline Calipers, traditional mount - 40 mm offset or 65 mm offset

There's  the non-goldline 2-piston models that are set up for the 300mm rotors, and the everything else that are 4 piston and are setup for the 320's. OEM Brembo Calipers can be had from Yoyodyne

I think the radials are setup for 330mm, but I have no bike with that kind of setup to look at.

Lastly is the rotor's bolt setup: 5 vs. 6 bolts. All the Duc's I've come across are 6 bolt, but that doesn't mean that there's a line out there that I didn't notice came equipped with something different.
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« Reply #12 on: May 04, 2009, 07:32:39 PM »

This is easier than you are thinking.

What is your caliper setup?

If you have a single front caliper, you can get a 16x18 Brembo Radial Front Master
If you have two front calipers, you can get either a 19x18 or 19x20 Brembo Radial Front Master. There is a new series from Brembo out now that allows you to order one caliper and choose whether you are in a x18 or a x20 mood. The difference is "feel" and abruptness of braking action.

Then you just get some brake reservoir tubing and the reservoirs you like. You can get inexpensive, easy to replace and see through (easy to check the level) brembo reservoirs, or more bling Rizoma reservoirs. If you get the Brembo's, you can replace the caps to Rizoma Caps or several other manufacturers' billet caps so you don't have corrosion issues.

Check eBay or the parts classifieds here regularly for deals on the Goldline Masters. My 900 came with a set back in the day, sold 'em off on the DML parts list (prior to the existence of the DMF) when I switched to the Radial masters.

Not a lot of rocket science to brakes. You squeeze at the lever, it displaces fluid, the further it pushes the fluid, the further the calipers move the pads toward the rotors. Brake fluid is a (near) incompressible fluid, so you squeeze here, it squeezes there. if your master does squeeze a lot of fluid (say the 16x18) then using it to move the fluid in two calipers would be less effective then the 19x18. right on?

The bore x stroke was my first stumbling block.  Someone said "look on the bottom and find the number, then get masters that match."  Well, try as I might I couldn't find it on the bottom of my masters.

I have the 65mm axial mount dual front calipers.  I did have a guy once tell me "those are nice brakes" when I first got my bike but i was (and still am) pretty ignorant to the subtleties of ducati part sourcing.  They're the gold colored brembos, but other than that.. /shrug.

I always figured a radial master would only work with radial brakes.  again, my own ignorance.


Andy
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« Reply #13 on: May 04, 2009, 09:01:13 PM »

Not a big deal - its confusing nomenclature, here's the quick rundown:

Radial Calipers - One mount on top, one mount on bottom of caliper. They "span" the caliper, holding it on either end. See recent superbikes, and most japanese superbikes. Slightly more rigid than linear, you might never feel the difference though.
Axial Calipers - The mounts are both on one end. 40mm vs. 65mm are your general options in calipers, and don't worry if one day you want to replace yours and some fancy monoblock billet brembo's catch your fancy and they are the wrong offset. Its not a big deal, the appropriate offset mount adapters are available.

These connect to your brake lines via a banjo bolt. The brake lines do one of three things:

- Seperately run up to the master cylinder and connect to a dual-banjo bolt. Requires two lines, and more room to run cable.
- Run separately up to a "manifold" connection somewhere near your triples, and then a single line runs to the banjo bolt at your master cylinder (most stock monsters).
- Run a short distance and join at a T-junction and then go all the way up the banjo bolt at the master.

At the master, you've got the brake line or brake lines coming in at the banjo bolt. Two (err.. three or four?) options are available:

1. Brembo axial piston with coffin (built-in) reservoirs (has mirror mounts)
2. Brembo axial piston with external reservoirs (like the goldlines) (has mirror mounts)
3. Brembo radial piston (OEM) with external reservoirs (unlikely to have mirror mounts - 749/999 masters is an example)
4. Brembo radial piston (GP/RCS) with external reservoirs (no mirror mounts)

When you squeeze the lever on an axial master, the piston is compressed along the same direction as your bars. With the radial, the piston is squeezed in the same direction as the squeeze motion, towards you.

Improving brakes' performance can be done a step at a time to improve performance:
Cheapest to most expensive:
Flush Hydraulics
Flush Hydraulics, new brake pads
Flush Hydraulics, new brake pads, braided lines (especially if yours are gettin' old)
Upgrade Master Cylinder for better feel (often requires new lines because the banjo fitting will need to be at a different angle)
Upgrade rotors. Top of the line is carbon $$$$$$$$. Iron is supposed to have great feel and stopping power than stainless. No FHE comparison, so you are on your own in choosing there. Any of these often have lighter weight carriers which is nice as well.
Do the whole schebang: calipers & rotors, master, lines, pads, and of course, new fluid.

Double check, but I believe either DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 is good to go in your system. If you put regular DOT 5 in, you are supposed to go kill yourself immediately afterward.

Flush hydraulics in brake fluid once a year, to keep the stuff in there a nice clear liquid (when its getting cloudy, its definitely time to change) and that keeps things feeling good. Some brake fluid comes gold-ish colored, and others if clear (like Motorex 5.1).

You can pull out the bleeders on the calipers and replace them with Speedbleeders to make the process of bleeding faster and easier. My technique on the MightyVac must suck, because I wasn't near as fast with it as I am just using regular ol' Speedbleeders. Its super easy, once they are on, affix a tube connected to waste cup, open them a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and just pump the lever, adding fluid to make sure the brake (or clutch) reservoir doesn't go dry, and pull air into the system.

If you've never observed the process of how the reservoir works, its pretty easy, when you release the lever from "squeeze", if there is any void in the line (say, from you pushing fluid out the bleeder at the caliper during a brake fluid flush) it pulls in some fluid to replace that. So, when you release the handle, that's when it pulls in stuff, not during the squeeze motion.
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junior varsity
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« Reply #14 on: May 04, 2009, 09:01:29 PM »

bahahaha, i said "quick". whoops.
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