My S4R has hiccups... is it the cored pipes????

[MotoCreations]

The 14T will help.  The clutch itself ala reduced springs / aftermarket slave (do your research before buying!) helps.

But given you have owner "cored pipes" -- I'm curious if more "owner service" was done also?  Sometimes a tune-up on a Ducati is only as good as the mechanic himself and the tools / software he has available and his experience.  When was the last service done and was it done by someone who knows what they are doing? The last S4R I rode was like an electric motor around the parking lot / slow speed roads -- only driveline lash itself.

[redneckduc]

I wouldn't worry too much about the cored pipes.  My guess is that you just need to get used to the bike.  Mine has never been super smooth in first gear at a crawl.  But I think thats just the driveline lash thing.  The stock clutch can be a pain if you have to sit in rush hour traffic often.
JP

[duc996]

I will do the 14t ASAP! thank you for reassuring me on that. How much will a shop charge to install it? and what brand should I buy?
Thanks again

I'm sorry forgot the name of the sprocket,and the price of installation is not so bad where i live.Cheap down here in the philippines.

[roy-nexus-6]

thanks for the replies about the clutch.. but what about the cored pipes? Any chance that if I buy and install the stock pipes (will be cheap) the bike will be smoother at lower rpms? I am trying to see if the cored pipes are causing the hiccups.

I really don't think it's the cored pipes - sounds like stock standard low rpm lugging. I still have a 15t sprocket on the front - I just tend to feather the clutch at low speeds/revs. I live in a small town, though.. so not a lot of stop/start traffic.

As for the clutch itself, I've just gotten used to it. Mind you, my left forearm would now freak out Popeye.

[booger]

I bought my S2R800 with cored stock cans. The udder was still present, and it idled at around 800 rpm, which is not right. Seemed like it was going to stall at traffic lights like that, but never did. It also wasn't terribly smooth off the line, but not terribly rough either. Then I put a Quat-D midpipe on it and got rid of the udder. Now, it idles much lower, like 500 and WILL die at traffic lights if I don't have the idle lever pulled forward a tiny bit. I've also noticed the endcaps on the cans are secured by only one rivet on the back, so the reduced backpressure wants to blow them out a little bit and I'm always pushing them back in place after a ride. I've noticed less low-end and midrange pull as well. So I've got some work to do, like securing the endcaps on the can with a couple extra rivets on the back and maybe some hi-temp RTV or JB Weld to the endcap flanges to make them stay put, and also taking the bike in to have the TPS and fuel trim adjusted. My guess is that in my case there is too little backpressure right now. I may end up having to buy a DP ECU to smooth it out, though I want to avoid that expense if at all possible.

[Cucciolo]

I took it out today and it really sucks to have it jerk me back and forth when going slow. It feels like it loses  power and then abruptly gets it back rocking me forward. I really don't see how the 14t sprocket will help with this. I doubt that ducati will put a 15t on their bikes and expect people to be happy with a jerky bike. This must be something else. Any other ideas?

[clubhousemotorsports]

Find a reputable shop and have it checked out it could also be too much freeplay in the throttle.

I think you might need fuel injection work done (set up) due to your "hiccup" remarks if by this you mean it is backfiring or poping in the airbox the bke is too lean at low throttle settings and a good fuel injection set up will fix this.

[Cucciolo]

that sounds more like it. I will take it to the shop this week. Thanks Ducvet!!!! 
Also, can you lead me in the right direction to find a post showing or explaining how to remove the 2 springs to reduce clutch lever pull? I've looked all over the old forum.. but I can't find HOW TO REMOVE them. Thanks

[ROBsS4R]

Also, can you lead me in the right direction to find a post showing or explaining how to remove the 2 springs to reduce clutch lever pull? I've looked all over the old forum.. but I can't find HOW TO REMOVE them. Thanks

Just remove the clutch cover. Unbolt 2 springs across from each other and put the bolt back in minus the spring.

Seriously though if you riding your bike at 3k rpms its going to be jerky specially with a 15t.

Put on the 14t and let us know how it goes  Also try the clutch not fully engaged method when going really slow.

If you were local to me I would swing by and see if it feels like my S4R. Where are you located ?

[Cucciolo]

Just remove the clutch cover. Unbolt 2 springs across from each other and put the bolt back in minus the spring.

I read that putting the bolt back could hurt the clutch if it gets lose.. others put loctite? Why not just leave the bolts out?

I live in Nashville.. I thank you for the offer.. I wish I knew more people here to go riding .

[MotoCreations]

Here is how to adjust the throttle: (I'll post in another thread also)

Adjust Throttle Cable Play

Worse I have seen is 8mm play.  Typically 4mm via the factory.  Spec is 1.5mm-2.0mm.

I usually adjust them to almost zero.  It takes a bit more fiddling to make happen though.

[ROBsS4R]

I read that putting the bolt back could hurt the clutch if it gets lose.. others put loctite? Why not just leave the bolts out?

I think the bolts naturally tighten them selfs also with the centrifugal force.

Some correct me I am wrong but I don't think they commonly get loose or fall off.

[clubhousemotorsports]

The bolts do not tend to loosen.
The only reasons I can think to putting them back would be for a cosmetic (symmetry) look.
Or to keep the threads in the clutch hub from getting corroded. They are small 4mm bolts so be careful not to overtighten them if you put them back in. If you are unsure how tight then thats when adding a little (blue medium strength) loctite helps.

+1 to motocreations on throttle play. The factory does spec a little but that is their safety net. I set mine as little as I can get (close to zero if possible), you just need to balance that with turning the bars lock to lock. If the idle raises when you turn the bars it could be dangerous (slow speed full turn accelerations usually) enouh to cause a tip over.
It is not that hard to set them correctly and just make sure going to full lock on steering does not raise the idle and you will be fine.