Can I make my Dry Clutch easier to pull?

Started by Cucciolo, May 17, 2008, 06:42:08 PM

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Cucciolo

I started a workout routine for my forearm... haha.. just kidding

He Man

Just bled my clutch, removed 2 springs. Rear wheel still is standstill on 1st gear. =D i say its almost 35% easier to pull.

Cucciolo

Quote from: He Man on May 18, 2008, 05:27:07 PM
Just bled my clutch, removed 2 springs. Rear wheel still is standstill on 1st gear. =D i say its almost 35% easier to pull.

What do you mean with bled your clutch?

Cucciolo

what is the difference between the 30mm bore instead 28mm for the slave cylinder? is it better to go bigger to help reduce the pull?

clubhousemotorsports

Removing two springs is a safe idea I have done it on many bikes and have yet to have a problem (dry clutches hardly ever slip) The more power you have the more you will test this theory but if it does slip just put them back.

Aftermarket slaves are a good option but you are playing with hydraulic ratios and there is no free ride. So, you may find it harder to get neutral at a full stop if you go for the larger bores. for some this is not a concern as you can select neutral as you are slowing to a stop.

Aftermarket spring are stiffer not softer from what I have seen, barnetts and stainless steel springs are about the same rate. they are good springs that look good in an open clutch but definitely not softer. Often the shop I worked at would sell a aftermarket clutch slave followed by a open clutch cover and stainless spring kit and the end result was a stock clutch pull    easier + harder= oem

Cucciolo

So from what you have experienced is it correct to say that the best way to make the clutch pull easier would be to:
1) Remove 2 springs and keep the stock springs.
2) Replace the slave with the biggest bore available.




ducpainter

Quote from: julianista on May 18, 2008, 06:18:04 PM
So from what you have experienced is it correct to say that the best way to make the clutch pull easier would be to:
1) Remove 2 springs and keep the stock springs.
2) Replace the slave with the biggest bore available.




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He Man

Basicly. but you should get stainless springs just because stock springs get worn pretty easily. They rust if you just look at them and think of water.

By bleeeding i ment i changed the clutch fluid. My clutch gets heavily abused in NYC traffic, so the fluid is worn, and full of moisture. With your bike on a rear stand, you can start your bike and throw it in first with the clutch in. If your wheel starts spinning like nuts, then its slipping, and your bike will stall if you remove 2 springs. Ofcourse if your clutch is worn to begin with, no amount of clutch bleeding will help.

On a sidenote, i went to go bleed my brakes, and mid way thru i realized i had no more DOT3. at the same time, i forgot what i was doing with my hands and let go of either a brake lever or a wrench so i have air in my system and no front brakes.  [bang]


clubhousemotorsports

Too large a bore can make it hard to get neutral, FYI
start with the free mod, remove the springs first and try it.

Cucciolo

Quote from: ducvet on May 18, 2008, 06:28:22 PM
Too large a bore can make it hard to get neutral, FYI
start with the free mod, remove the springs first and try it.
That makes sense. I will. Thank you for the help! This forum is the best resource ever!
Thank you He-man and everyone else helping out! [thumbsup]

Cucciolo

What do you do with the 2 bolts after removing the springs? Put them back in or leave out?

NAKID

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Ddan

Quote from: julianista on May 18, 2008, 09:12:00 PM
What do you do with the 2 bolts after removing the springs? Put them back in or leave out?

Or leave them out.  Without the springs and caps they do nothing.  If you have adjustable levers you can compensate for the shorter throw with the  bigger bore slave by adjusting the lever out, but that will also affect your grip by making a longer reach. 
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clubhousemotorsports

Quote from: He Man on May 18, 2008, 06:27:22 PM
Basicly. but you should get stainless springs just because stock springs get worn pretty easily. They rust if you just look at them and think of wate


Stainless springs are primarily a cosmetic upgrade, I have never seen a dry clutch spring failure and that is with  years of race bikes with open covers as well as about 50000 miles on my own bikes with open covers.

Rusty looking? yes
worn by the surface rust? no


For me the stiffer springs (stainless) were never a good enough trade off due to the harder clutch pull.

Cosmetics are such a personal thing that if you like them and understand the ups and downs of owning them, by all means go ahead. There is no right or wrong here just preferences

Cucciolo

There is a discrepancy in opinions as to leave them in or take the bolts out after removing the 2 springs. If removing them doesn't cause any harm, then that may be the safest thing to do?