Project S4 base gasket/lean issue repair progress

[fouramdesigns]

Bike finally has been running perfect, and yesterday while I'm headed back home, I see oil by the bottom cylinder. No smoke, no burning oil smell, oil is full. I took it to the shop, the mechanic says it's the base gasket leaking. Said that Ducati used the same engine in various bikes, that there's a channel for oil return that wasn't utilized on this model, as they used lines instead. That Ducati just sat a gasket to cover, and now mines leaking. Mentioned some trick of just putting a bearing in the hole to plug. Was quoted an estimate of $800. He basically said at this point, it's cosmetic, that the motor not in immediate danger. I'm just tired of the 1-2-issues. Come on guy's, y'all have yet to fail me. What's going on here and how can I fix it?

[Speeddog]

Sorry to say, but what you have there is a genuine base gasket leak. 
Fairly common on '01 and '02 models, and not only S4.

The 'fix' is just as the tech told you.

Alternatively, you can use a setscrew to plug the hole, which is what I did on my S4.

It's a good bit of work to do it, so IMO that estimate isn't out of line.

If you're mechanically inclined, it's not a rocket science job.
There's a few traps to the job, so post up if you're going to try it yourself...

[fouramdesigns]

I would love to go at it myself. Where can I find a tutorial? And for Gawd's sake why did Ducati go about this? I just wanna ride! Thanks for your reply. You guy's have been a ton of help.

[Speeddog]

We can talk you through it.

I'll BRB with some info.

[wiggy_nz]

No 1.  What kind of bike / model?
No 2.  If it is the 600 / 620/ 900 etc family you need to pull the vertical head off and then the cylinder off. The piston also off.  There is a metal gasket at the base of the cylinder that will come off.  Clean both sides of the metal gasket and coat BOTH SIDES with threebond  or a tube of Duc sealer.  Before the sealer goes "off" put the piston and cylinder back on.  At this point you will need to replace the "O" ring/s between the cylinder and head and then bolt everything down to spec.  A small amount of sealer will squeeze out when torqued down but that can be cleaned up afterwards.  Refit all parts that were removed etc and the exhaust header etc and go for a ride.  Any questions....give me / forum a shout

[ducpainter]

He has an S4...916

[fouramdesigns]

What size sockets, bolt keys will be involved? If anyone could post a tutorial, that would be great. I do have the S4 parts manual, so that kinda gives me an idea of what is what, and what's bolted in sequence. Is there an online service manual?

[ducpainter]

you could check duc.nu for downloadable manuals.

[fouramdesigns]

Thank you sir, great help. I may go with some race pistons/rings while I'm in. May be a blessing in disguise.

[Speeddog]

Here's a little info in a previous thread:

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=4704.0

This is going to be a long write-up, so I'll do it in stages as I have time available, updating it here.
I may juggle the order of stuff as I go, so bear with me...

Take pictures and notes as you go, it makes reassembly a lot easier.

"Tutorial"
Fuel tank Removal

Remove the seat.

It's best to empty the tank as much as possible first (Usual warning about open flames in the vicinity).

A) You can use a 'squeeze-bulb' fuel pump (available from boat shops), to get most of the fuel out.
    I suggest you make some plugs beforehand, using short lengths of 5/16" fuel line that are plugged on one end.
    Then remove the hoses from the bottom of the tank.
    A good bit of fuel will still come out, so have a couple shoprags underneath.
    If you're quick, you can pull the line and install the plug without too much gas coming out.

B) You can use this opportunity to install some fuel line quick-disconnects, Motion-Pro sells 'em, get two of the 5/16" size.
    Assuming you've still got the OEM fuel lines that drop down past the belt cover...
    Pick a spot on the lines where the disconnects will be accessible, but not in the way, like near the vertical frame tube.
   Clamp one hose closed back towards the rear of the tank, then cut the fuel line, have a shoprag under it to catch the bit of fuel that will come out.
   Install the 'female' QD in the end of the hose that connects to the tank.
   Snip a length of hose about equal to the length of the QD from the line that goes to the throttle body, then install the 'male' QD in the end of that hose.
   Do the same for the other fuel line.

Disconnect the electrical plug on the bottom of the tank.

Disconnect the vent lines.

Pull the clip on the pivot pin at the rear of the tank, remove the washer, and push the pin out.
   
Remove the tank.

Radiator Removal

Get a catch pan for the coolant, and have some shoprags handy, you'll make a bit of a mess.

Partially remove the lower radiator hose at the radiator, coolant will start coming out *fast*, so if you just pull the hose off a little bit, you can control it.

When it's finished draining, remove the upper hose and the small hose that goes to the catch tank.

Disconnect the electrical plugs for the fans.

Disconnect the lower radiator bracket.

Remove the upper retaining bolt.

Drop the left side of the radiator down, and wiggle the radiator while pushing *gently* to the right, disengaging the right upper mount.

CAUTION: The radiator mount ears are *very* soft, it's easy to bend them, be patient.

Pull the radiator out.

Exhaust System Removal

Remove the cans.

Loosen the clamp where the rear headpipe joins the midpipe.

Remove the nuts on the pipe flange that attaches to the horizontal cylinder head.

Remove the midpipe.

Remove the nuts on the pipe flange that attaches to the vertical cylinder head.
This is a PITA, it will help a *lot* if you have a 10mm universal joint socket.

General Stuff

Remove the battery.

Detach the relay assembly and master fuse from the left side of the battery tray.

Remove the bolts holding the battery tray, drape the whole thing over the right side of the frame.

Pull the fusebox out of the grommets that hold it to the battery tray bracket.

Remove the nuts holding the battery tray bracket, detach the starter solenoid from the bottom of said bracket, and remove the bracket..

Disconnect the coil wires from the coils.

Pull the coils out of the heads.

Remove the spark plugs.

Belt Covers and Belts

Remove the vertical and horizontal belt covers.

Remove the wire on the oil pressure switch.

Remove the middle belt cover.
It'll be a little zen puzzle to fish it out, be patient and don't force it.
The little notch on the bottom will allow it to slip part the oil pressure switch.

Rotate the engine until the cam drive pulley hashmark aligns with the hashmark on the sidecover.
Note the positions of the hashmarks on the cam pullies, and how they line up with the marks on the heads.

Loosen the locknuts on the belt tensioner rollers.

Remove the belts, and mark them for direction and location.

Rotate the vertical intake cam pulley until it 'springs' free.
It may do that on it's own.
It should rotate freely between about 3 O'clock and 10 O'clock position of the hashmark.
This is *important*, as then the intake valves are closed.

Rotate the engine until the drive pulley hashmark is at about 9 O'clock, this is approximately TDC on the vertical cylinder.

MORE INFO LATER

[fouramdesigns]

Link to previous post, A BIG help. While I'm in, any suggestions on upgrades? I know the breather will be replaced, hell , I'll try the foot powder, may be that, but like your thinking SpeedDog, most likely the base gasket/gallery leak. I want to turn this into a learning/upgrade experience. Tired of giving money to the dicks at the local shop. I'm taking my business over to Corse MotorSports per ATO. Alain is out for 3 weeks though, so i had to book an appt. Again, many thanks.

[fouramdesigns]

Ok, I've ran about ten miles after I cleaned the engine case with cleaner, washed the whole bike down. No pooling by the gallery, but I did notice this today:

The bolt to the rear set/rear break, right below the clutch housing. Some oil streaking.

[fouramdesigns]

After looking at the service manual, and determining what I'm looking at, this is on the same side as the breather. My hose looks pretty dry rotted coming out of the unit. I guess all I can do is ride, and keep a watch, and if it happens, clean, then try the foot powder to find the source. I'm going to buy a tool set today. I'm dead set to tackle this myself, and learn about this bike. When I have the mechanics in order, I'm starting this project full force. Powder coated frame/tank/wheels. I love this damn bike, and will not give up on him yet. I almost convinced myself to spend $13K for an 08' KTM Super Duke. Why? When I can have my own, custom creation, that I know has been done correctly. Now where's a good place to purchase the Ducati special tools, or is there an alternative?

[Speeddog]

Ok, I've ran about ten miles after I cleaned the engine case with cleaner, washed the whole bike down. No pooling by the gallery, but I did notice this today:

The bolt to the rear set/rear break, right below the clutch housing. Some oil streaking.

That's most likely clutch dust.

[fouramdesigns]

Any more info for me? About to tackle this job.