Recent odd failures on bikes that have come into my shop...

[avizpls]

keep this stuff coming. The more problems we see, the more potential solutions.

Good conclusion on starter not turning if the wheel will turn forward but not back

[Mojo S2R]

  Sticking around for more of this great thread.

[redial]

this thread is amazing. this should be stickied and added to by all duc mechanics!

[Slide Panda]

Fun! Keep 'em coming. You could do the Ducaholic game too, ID'ing parts and problems and such. I love those threads he posts

[Silver King]

 


Those Southern California folks are lucky to have you.

[yotogi]

 

Thanks for these. The more info you have on problems the more tools you have in your box when you run into one. Thanks for sharing your experience!

[sbrguy]

good to see what bad rollers are supposed to look like checked mine and they are ok, but damn those belt covers are a pain to get off with an oil cooler line over them, who the heck designed them to be so tough to take off?

[Drunken Monkey]

I think they need to give you your own TV show 



Great thread, but your public (okay, me) demands more!

[nomadwarmachine]

More!   

[Bill in OKC]

Great thread.  This should be a sticky 

[causeofkaos]

best thread ive read yet!!! 

[krista]

Fuel hoses, etc, deteriorate because vehicle manufacturers don't want to spend the money on Viton and use rubber products, which eventually will rot. I found this out while researching getting o-rings for our Monster fuel tanks.

[djrashonal]

how much are Viton ones? worth replacing whats in there?




Any new shop stories?

[Speeddog]

how much are Viton ones? worth replacing whats in there?

Any new shop stories?

No new shop stories at this time.

Fuel lines from the factory are good stuff, but it seems that allowing them to marinate in spoiling ethanol-laced fuel will kill 'em.

[Desmo Demon]

Bike presented with clutch lever solid as a rock, and clutch not working.

Opening bleed screw on the slave and squeezing lever, fluid comes out and lever goes full travel.
<snip>
So, nut backing off allows the hub and stack to move outward, and the slave cylinder runs out of stroke, piston bottomed out, so lever solid.

This reminds me of my situation a couple of years ago....

Every now and again, I'd pull in my clutch lever to have no resistance on the lever. The next pull, it works fine. Figured air in the line, so I bled it...

Not much later, and it starts it again. Pull the lever in, no resistance, pull it again, and it works fine. I noticed when riding really hard in the mountains, it would do it more often. Instead of once every 15-20 miles, now, it would do it several times in a mile when I rode the bike harder. Bled it again, removed the clutch slave and checked it and cleaned it, and it still did it.

Spoke with a local tech, and he swore it was the master cylinder if it was not the slave. I bought a new clutch master cylinder and swapped it out. Still did it. It was never predictable and was inconsistent, so I still couldn't figure it out.

A little later, the slave started leaking. Removing and inspecting it again, I noticed that the bore was worn when I removed the piston...




(Note - the slave is a triple seal Evoluzione, so the wear pattern didn't strike me as odd)

I replaced the clutch slave, and......it still happened.

This intermittent clutch issue went on for about 3000 miles until it finally failed....

I was almost 200 miles from the house when I went to pull the clutch in, the lever went straight to the bar, and then I heard a really bad racket coming from the right side of the engine. On top of this, I couldn't change gears. I killed the engine and coasted to a stop, and then pushed the bike to a nearby McDonald's parking lot. This is when I saw this...



I grabbed some tools and pulled the clutch cover off to discover that the clutch hub nut had been backing off this entire time...





Apparently, the nut would back off a little and the first pull of the clutch lever would push the clutch rod to fill the gap, and then the second pull of the lever, it would work normally. A little later, the nut would back off a little more, and the same thing would happen with the lever pull pushing the rod until it was applying pressure again.

I borrowed my wife's bike and left her with the ST2. I rode to a local auto parts store where I bought a breaker bar and a socket. I reassembled the clutch and rode the 200 miles back home where I took everything back apart, cleaned everything, and put locktite on the hub nut. 20k miles later and it's still working fine (the clutch has 52k miles on it). I never suspected the hub nut backing off because the clutch had not been touched since it left the factory. I guess it just took 30k miles to pound the nut loose.