Ok, so it's time for some new internal clutch parts. This is a walk through for replacing the clutch basket and hub on a dry clutch. The clutch holding tool, basket and hub i used in that are all by VeeTwo in Australia.
Linky to their ebay storeTools/supplies you'll need:
4mm Allen*
5mm Allen*
14mm socket
32mm Socket
Picks/pigtails
Torque wrench that's rated to 130 or more Nm
Clutch holder tool
Lock 4 - aka flange sealant aka black RVT
Anti seize (optional)*
medium loctite (optional)*
Sharpie
High pressure high performance grease (optional but suggested)*
- The *'ed items above are for pulling the clutch cover and pressure plate - they are not directly mentioned below
1. Remove your pressure plate, and clutch plate stack. If you are planning to reuse your current clutch pack, use that sharpie to label them in the order you pulled them out and set them aside.
Now you'll be looking at this:
2. Remove you push rod carefully and get ready to remove parts. With my clutch tool (made by VeeTwo in austrailia) you need to get thigns lined up a little bit
Ready to disassemble
3. Use the 32mm socket to remove the clutch hub nut. The nut has a friction lock washer and is torqued down quite a bit. An impact tool is advisable for busting it loose. A big wrench w cheater bar may do it - but you DO NOT want to strip this nut.
*Edit - The name has been changed to protect the innocent* If you're using hand tools for this, position yourself/tools so you are pulling up on the breaker bar NOT pushing down. Due to the torque on it the nut takes a lot of force to get loose initially and once it lets go it's quite sudden. If you're pushing downward there's a good possibility of a faceplant - a buddy discovered this the hard way. Pulling up gives you a shot at catching your balance when the nuts comes loose.
Once the nut is loose, remove it by hand, turning it out. There is a lock washer beneath is you don't want to lose. Remove the flange and spacer/washer thing (that rusty object in the photo above). Also, look out for a o-ring pressed into the hub, that is behind the nut capture flange. If you are replacing the hub as well, you'll need to transfer it to the new hub.
Hub removed
4. Remove the basket retainer bolts. They should come out fairly easily. There will be some resistance, since they have that flange sealant on them - but it will just feel like turning a bolt in a rubber bushing. It should not feel like metal on metal binding.
Basket removed
5. Clean up. Even if you have taken good care of your bike, there will be crud back there. Now's a good time to clean it out. It's not good to breathe this stuff, so I used a rag. IF you feel the need to used compressed air, I'd suggest wearing a respirator with the right filters.
The old and heavy steel clutch basket along side the new billet model (this one is made by VeeTwo in Austrailia). You can see that the teeth on the stock basket have had ridges pounded into them over the miles. This basket has just over 28K on it. It could have gone longer... I've seen worse that still work.
- The billet basket is significantly lighter than the stock. I'd guess about 25-33% of the stock steel ones weight.
6. Install the new basket. The bolts get a helping of that Flange sealant and are torqued to 32Nm. When tightening, work in a star pattern to ensure that the basket sits flat.
7. Install the new hub (or your old one). Be sure that o-ring that sat under the hub nut assembly is in place/got transferred to the new hub. Aside from that, just reverse the disassembly procedure. For an M900 the nut is to be torqued to 128Nm. I've seen some places say it's higher and other bikes might have a different spec - so double check for your particular Monster. No thread lock is specified in the tech manual, so use at your discretion.
New hub and basket installed
8. Reinstall plates in the original order, push rod, pressure plate and springs. I should point out that this is a good opportunity to inspect your pressure plate bearing, the condition of the push rod, plates etc. Also, it's a good idea to put a dab of high pressure grease on the end of the push rod that will be going into the pressure plate.
Fully assembled
9. Test. You've just changed out parts of a major system of the bike. Be sure it's in proper working order before you go any place far
