Damn Ducati & Marzocchi!

[big ed]

Editing to make clearer...

Have 07 s2r 800 with 06 manual.

Changed to stiffer fork springs and oil in 43mm unadjustable Marzocchis, found that the design changed from the manual's description with the elimination of the top retaining clip that holds the fork spring...my stock spring was longer to compensate and rested right against the fork cap. 

When reassembling, I set the forks to the stock position in the lower triple and put on a Cyclecat top triple I bought (for s2rs).  The fork caps did not even sit flush with the top triple.  Instead, they were recessed about 7mm (roughly, since I converted from inches). Looking at the stock triple shows that the clamps for the forks do indeed sit lower than the steering hub clamp.  In the manual on the '06s, the top of the steering hub and the forks are supposed to be equal lengths from the bottom triple (199mm).

Now the questions:
1) Don't both the 06 and 07 s2r 800s come with the Marzocchi forks?
2) Are the 07 Marzocchi forks shorter than the 06?
3) will lowering the front forks 7mm be a drastic change in handling?

I am not so worried about #3 if the forks on '06s and '07s are the same length, but if they are not, then I am worried about making things too "twitchy".  Unfortunately, I am most interested in #2, which is the biggest PITA since someone with an 06 s2r would have to measure thirs from fork top to axle.

Thanks

[rockaduc]

Just another example of Italian engineering. Just wait, the more mods you do, the more interesting design elements you encounter.  I have an 05 S2R, so I am not much help.  I did however go w/ the SBK fork upgrade and couldn't be happier!!!!!

[clubhousemotorsports]

Well lets back up a minute here. I think you will be just fine.

Ducati did make a poor choice on the fork but it could have been worse look at comparable japanese bikes.
It is not ducatis fault that an aftermarket top clamp was not made for your bike. I think ducati made  the forks shorter across the board on monsters to give the adjustable forks room under the handlebars. The cyclecats are probably flat with no "droop".

7mm is a decent change to the front end BUT you also added stiffer font springs that will hold the front end higher (less sag) than you had them. this may mean net results will be similar in turn in speed. At full compression the front end will be steeper so you will have more of a tendency to tuck the nose if you are being too ham fisted.
In other words try it you may find it works fine.
good luck

[big ed]

Thanks for the advice.  I was really thinking about lowering the front end, but wanted to put out feelers for the "Oh my F*ing God don't do it!!!" type of quotes.

New rider, first bike, and only 2K on the odometer means still a bit cautious...

I want to do the superbike forks too, but it wasn't in the cards this year. 

Thanks

[bigiain]

Thanks for the advice.  I was really thinking about lowering the front end, but wanted to put out feelers for the "Oh my F*ing God don't do it!!!" type of quotes.

Nah, like ducvet says, 7mm on it's own would be enough for me to warn you to be extra careful on the first few rides, but with stiffer springs I doubt you'll have too much of a problem - I would have advised you to check the static sag and compare it with the original springs if you'd asked me before you changed them out (just to make sure you haven't "lost" some preload to compensate for the stiffer springs), but if you don't have those measurements to hand you won't be able to do that.

Just take the normal "I've just futzed with my suspension" kind of care on the first few rides, being particularly prepared for faster-than-normal steering and tip in, and keeping a close eye on whether that's gone far enough to become "instability"... I reckon you'll be fine though...

big

[printman]

If the forks are recessed 7mm it will handle slower in the turns, but will be more stable upright at speed.

Raising the forks, lowers the bike causing it to tip in faster

better straight performance = more work to turn

better tip in (or turn in) = less stable at speed.


The ideal spot would be where you are comfortable with both.

If back end height adjustment is where you want it, then play with the height of the forks in the triple clamps to find your optimal setting.

I would caution that I only like to move it a few mm's at a time. Then ride a few days, unless it is just horrible   

[clubhousemotorsports]

From where  he started with his measurements to the lower tree the forks being recessed was only due to the top tree not having a droop and being flat.
 As I understood it he was inquiring about making the tubes level in the top tree which would lower the front.

Printman you are correct in you evaluations of what changing the attitude of the bike will do I think you missed the part about the cyclecat top clamp..... or maybe I should just go get some sleep.

[printman]

From where  he started with his measurements to the lower tree the forks being recessed was only due to the top tree not having a droop and being flat.
 As I understood it he was inquiring about making the tubes level in the top tree which would lower the front.

Printman you are correct in you evaluations of what changing the attitude of the bike will do I think you missed the part about the cyclecat top clamp..... or maybe I should just go get some sleep.

skimmed over that part as the kids were getting loud 

as a side note, the cyclecat clamps don't allow for flush settings  or am  I missing something?

[clubhousemotorsports]

Kids getting loud?
I have a couple that should be checked with the decibel meter. I don't think they would pass state inspection.

Cyclecat trees that I have seen were all flat in profile. newer monster top clamps are lower at the fork tubes to work with shorter forks.
but then I may be wrong as I need to go get some sleep.