DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

I don't use spray cans. The stuff that's generally in them is stuff we stopped using in the 70's...enamel without activators. It's not durable at all until it dries for about a month at 70 F. At that point it will still stain, and yellow, from fuel.

Shoulda used the 2K urethane.

[DuciD03]

I don't use spray cans. The stuff that's generally in them is stuff we stopped using in the 70's...enamel without activators. It's not durable at all until it dries for about a month at 70 F. At that point it will still stain, and yellow, from fuel.

Shoulda used the 2K urethane.

I had that sinking feeling as I was spraying the fender after spending some time sanding; this is what I thought you'd say. Was looking to apply a product that would be gas and break fluid resist to a fender as gas and break fluid is right there.

  ... after a little fretting ... not to belabour the point; but, its important to get the right product & performance! So for others to beware.

Thought the Dupli-color acrylic enamel clear would have been gas resistant at the least; according to Dupli-color product support, turns out not gas resistant and it doesn't indicate this on the product info that I read thoroughly on the can!; what a colossal waste of time! ; I'll do a little test tonight with gas but don't have any hope. 

Would a synthetic paint sealer (wax) protect the acrylic enamel clear & lacquer paint from gas? Or the other alternative is to reapply  2 part activated urethane.

Can a 2 part activated urethane (ie 2K urethane) or poly-urethane go over the liquor cleared with acrylic enamel without too much problem? and protect the works?

[ducpainter]

You can apply 2K over enamel, but wait at least 30 days, preferably longer, to avoid the hot solvents in the 2K from wrinkling the enamel.

If it wrinkles, you don't have any option but to strip the part.

Wax works...a little...for gas, but no paint will stand up to brake fluid left on the surface. 2K's will not be affected, once fully cured, if you wipe the fluid off soon.

[CookieMonster]

Hello,

Due to my tank expanding and contracting throughout its life, it has made the stripes get stretch marks and bubble up at some places (I popped the bubble so it’s not as bad as before). I want to wrap my tank to give it a fresh look, I know decals under a wrap will show so:
1. How can I remove the stripes
2. Can the tank be wrapped with one piece?

[ducpainter]

The stripes are under the clear. Unless you sand, and re-prime, after you remove the stripes. It will show even more.

The stripes/decals can be peeled off after sanding the clear from the surface.

No idea if it can be wrapped with one piece.

[CookieMonster]

The stripes are under the clear. Unless you sand, and re-prime, after you remove the stripes. It will show even more.

The stripes/decals can be peeled off after sanding the clear from the surface.

No idea if it can be wrapped with one piece.

I think I’m gonna sand just enough to be able to peel the stripes off, blend the clear coat edges left by the stripes and leave the letters on so when I wrap it they show through. Gonna try it during the off season. Wish me luck! 😬

[ducpainter]

I think I’m gonna sand just enough to be able to peel the stripes off, blend the clear coat edges left by the stripes and leave the letters on so when I wrap it they show through. Gonna try it during the off season. Wish me luck! 😬

That'll work.

The wrap will hide any scratches left by the feather edging.

Post some pics when you do it.

[CookieMonster]

That'll work.

The wrap will hide any scratches left by the feather edging.

Post some pics when you do it.

Will do! 😁

[Langanobob]

A friend who was a very Serious Hobbyist passed away several years ago.  His wife is still disposing of all his stuff.  He had a good collection of about 8 or 9 spray guns, most of them old school suction type (not gravity feed HVLP), some good quality, some not.  He also had a pressure pot.   His wife says they are mine if I want  them.  Are the older guns and a pressure  pot of much use these days?  Environmental issues aren’t an issue, they’d only be used for more hobbyist projects, not a commercial shop.  Thanks.

[ducpainter]

They're good for primer, if nothing else.

A pressure pot can come in handy, especially for large jobs. PITA to clean. however.

[Langanobob]

Thanks DP,  I’ll add them to my own collection.

[Twoboys911]

I make my living as a painter.

At some point I'll write up a how to, but in the meanwhile I'd be happy to field questions to get you started in the right direction so ask them here if you like.

[ducpainter]

Do you have a question?

[booger]

I just got my forks back from Traxxion, and I'm impressed by the job they did with the finish work. I got a nice medium gray anodizing on the upper tubes and gold TiN on the inner tubes. Looks much better now for the S4RT. Except that they put these YUGE stickers on which of course I'll need to remove (hope they don't get offended). I'm hoping the AK20 cartridges they installed function as good as these forks now look.

But there's a problem. The finish on the lowers, that kind of dark brownish gray (Showa), kinda flaked off in spots, I assume from cleaning and handling. This lets the splendid job they did with the rest of the finish down. So I will need to hit the lowers with some satin black before I reinstall the forks. I'm sure people have done this very thing many times before, but I have not. Actually this is my first push for decent suspension on any bike I've had.

I'd like some recommendations on the paint. Satin black, needs to be durable. I was thinking about SprayMax 2k Hot Rod Black Satin in the rattlecan. Ducpainter you know best. Is this acceptable or do you have a better recommendation? I don't have spray equipment, and a 2 part paint is what I think would yield the best results. Also would I need to prime this and if so, what primer? Thanks

[ducpainter]

The SprayMax product is 2K, meaning two component, in an aerosol can, so it should fit the bill for durability.

You'll need to feather out the edges of the chips/flaking/peeling. This will invariably cause you to sand through so priming is necessary. I'd recommend an epoxy for adhesion to aluminum. You should be able to find the same type of 2K epoxy aerosol.

https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/    ...get black it will cover easier, and if you do suffer a chip, it won't show.

My main concern with aluminum is it should be etched before priming. Aluminum can corrode in a very short period of time when exposed to the atmosphere. You can't see it right away, but it's there. The etching puts a coating on the aluminum to prevent this.

The product most often used is Alodine, now Bonderite. Alodine had chromates in it, and those have been banned. If you don't use it will the job fail? Eventually, yes, but soon enough for you to care? Hard to say. The epoxy will mitigate the problem, somewhat, due to it's superior adhesion and anti corrosion properties. If you decide not to etch...sand, wash with a non water based product, dry, and prime immediately.

Follow label directions on the epoxy primer as far as how long to wait for topcoating. It can be done, typically, withing 30-60 minutes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143410790130

ETA...had an afterthought...be careful when bleeding brakes, especially when the paint is fresh. Brake fluid will blister cured paint when left in contact, and will mar fresh paint with just incidental contact.