DIY Painting Tips

[ducpainter]

Planning on spraying matte clear and I also have black vinyl decals for the sides of the tank. Can I spray the clear over them? I know I could if it were gloss clear, but wasn't sure about matte.

Yes.

[theoneillusion]

Yes...except I'd use 3 coats of surfacer. 100 scratches are pretty aggressive. The reason I recommend 100 is because you'll be there forever with anything finer. You could step up to 180/220 to finish to allow less primer build.

The MP 171 will 'handle' much differently reduced. Spray enough to just cover in one coat...don't use a heavy coat, but you want it smooth. Use urethane reducer for the temp you're working at. 50% is max and will depend on your gun whether you actually need that much.

Wait at least 30 minutes after you seal to allow the reducer to evaporate. You have a long window with the MP so you could even wait over night with no sanding necessary.

Good luck.

Make a donation to the forum... http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1241.0

Beautiful! I'll do all as directed. Back to sanding, I am.

[Gimpy]

Planning on spraying matte clear and I also have black vinyl decals for the sides of the tank. Can I spray the clear over them? I know I could if it were gloss clear, but wasn't sure about matte.

Whoa!!  That's  a cool idea...  Any pictures of what you are trying for?  I don't have any paint projects coming.  But I think my clutch is going bad, which means I need to drop the motor and powder coat the frame red.  I'll just have to paint the tank as well.   

[ducpainter]

Beautiful! I'll do all as directed. Back to sanding, I am.

Fingers worn out yet? 

[ChrisK]

Ducpainter, I'm going to just transfer the questions I just asked you via e-mail to here, suppose this is the correct place to discuss this.

To catch interested parties up, I'm going to be using a waterborne paint for my project. DP has recommended PPG DCU-2060 as a good clear to get the matte finish I'm looking for. My question to DP is this: I've looking into the DCU-2060 and the PPG description kind of makes it sound like it's meant to be mixed with other clears. Regardless of this being true or not, is it still okay to use this as the only clear coat, to achieve that matte finish? Here is where I got the information: http://www.tricitypaint.com/docs/P-217.pdf

Second question, if I spray Rustoleum brand primer, will it be okay to use the waterborne stuff over top of it? In other words, it won't cause lifting will it? Here is a link to the specific primer I'd be using: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RUSTOLEUM-Filler-Primer-6PET4

Thanks

[ChrisK]

He has also said that I'd need DCX-61 activator to work with the clear and a reducer for "the temps I'm working at"

[ducpainter]

Ducpainter, I'm going to just transfer the questions I just asked you via e-mail to here, suppose this is the correct place to discuss this.

To catch interested parties up, I'm going to be using a waterborne paint for my project. DP has recommended PPG DCU-2060 as a good clear to get the matte finish I'm looking for. My question to DP is this: I've looking into the DCU-2060 and the PPG description kind of makes it sound like it's meant to be mixed with other clears. Regardless of this being true or not, is it still okay to use this as the only clear coat, to achieve that matte finish? Here is where I got the information: http://www.tricitypaint.com/docs/P-217.pdf

Second question, if I spray Rustoleum brand primer, will it be okay to use the waterborne stuff over top of it? In other words, it won't cause lifting will it? Here is a link to the specific primer I'd be using: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RUSTOLEUM-Filler-Primer-6PET4

Thanks

Read the P sheet again... It says it can be blended with other clears, not that it has to be.

I have no experience with the brand of paint, or the brand of primer you want to use. I would use an activated primer too. I honestly can't say if you'll have problems.

Here's the thing...quality automotive materials are expensive...period. You sometimes can save money by using the major manufacturers value line. In the case of PPG it would be the Omni line of paints. They may offer a low gloss clear. If you stay within one brand, and quality level, for primer and clear often they'll use a common activator which saves money.

You can also buy a gloss modifier such as PPG SU-4985 which works in all clears and single stage colors. You would have to do a little experimenting to get the exact level you want.

When you choose a value line paint you may be giving up some of the desirable attributes of the top of the line products or it might just be the guarantee.

There is no one right choice. There are a ton of possibilities to have trouble.

[ChrisK]

Okay.

Another question I just thought of. I'm still planning on doing that racing stripe. Would I run into any problems using Dupli-Color "Paint Shop" paint over top of the waterborne stuff?

[ChrisK]

Don't address that last question, not going that route. lol

I'm just doing it the easy way, buying primer and clear from the same place I got the paint. Sorry for the hassle.

[ducpainter]

Don't address that last question, not going that route. lol

I'm just doing it the easy way, buying primer and clear from the same place I got the paint. Sorry for the hassle.

Good call.

If you're going to stripe it I'd ask someone else about doing it over the water borne without clearing first.

The only info I have is that waterborne can be tough to get to dry without sufficient airflow. I have no info about tape times...etc.

[ChrisK]

I'll contact them about recommended tape and process.

I actually built a make-shift paint booth in my garage attic, complete with filter and fan. So airflow is actually pretty good, but I see your concern.

The paint I have has "no re-coat window" so I believe that means I have plenty of time to let it dry before I have to lay tape down.

[ducpainter]

I'll contact them about recommended tape and process.

I actually built a make-shift paint booth in my garage attic, complete with filter and fan. So airflow is actually pretty good, but I see your concern.

The paint I have has "no re-coat window" so I believe that means I have plenty of time to let it dry before I have to lay tape down.

That is what no re-coat window means.

[theoneillusion]

Fingers worn out yet? 

Haha  Not there just yet, but I'm taking my time and doing a little each day. You should have seen it, seems like every time I went to look at it there were more cracks. Want to do it right this go around.

 

Okay.

Another question I just thought of. I'm still planning on doing that racing stripe. Would I run into any problems using Dupli-Color "Paint Shop" paint over top of the waterborne stuff?

I played around with that stuff and was less than impressed. The stuff is already thinned so you're not getting the quantity you think and the quality sure isn't there (from my humble less than amateur opinion).

[ChrisK]

DP, do you happen to know the dimensions of the stripes on the S4RS's?

[ducpainter]

DP, do you happen to know the dimensions of the stripes on the S4RS's?

I don't know the exact number.

I just make the overall width the same as the hole in the top of the tank.

I make the narrow stripes 1/8".