DIY Painting Tips

[SpikeC]

 Greeting oh Great Paint Guru! My question is about an aluminum fuel tank that I just acquired for my Bimota. I am in the process of sanding the grinding marks off of it and when I get it to a satin finish that I like I was thinking that clear coating it might be a good idea.
 I know that some companies clear over their polished engine case covers, so is this possible for a DYI type? If so what sort of stuff should I use?

[ducpainter]

You can...although I think most companies are clear anodizing.

Painted aluminum requires either an epoxy primer or a chemical prep called Alodine which gives the aluminum a yellow streaky look, chromate coating, which obviously is not what you want.

POR makes a clear that they claim will stick to polished metal with the proper prep..no FHE...but their products typically work. You'll need access to a spray gun and compressor to use it.   http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC_p_45.html  It's an activated product so use the appropriate safety gear.

This is a link to the prep chemical... http://www.por15.com/AP-120-Metal-Prep_p_18.html ...this one doesn't stain the aluminum.

[SpikeC]

Thanks, good info. As I will not be coating on polished aluminum, but rather a satin or brushed finish, does that have any impact on whether the primer is necessary? BTW, speaking of alodine, back in '68 I was working in a plating shop and doing alodine on parts for Boing. They should have been anodized, but for budgetary reasons they went with the cheaper method!
 Think about that next time that you fly!

[ducpainter]

I'd still use the prep.

It isn't that expensive, and aluminum can be tough for adhesion, and corrosion is always an issue. Think about it the next time you fly.

You could always call POR and ask them... 800-457-6715

[red baron]

I'd still use the prep.

It isn't that expensive, and aluminum can be tough for adhesion, and corrosion is always an issue. Think about it the next time you fly.

You could always call POR and ask them... 800-457-6715

I'm with dp, alodine would be a great addition to any paint system.

[MonsterMadMarty]

Hi DP,

I have a tank that the previous owner had professionally painted 2K satin black with no clear coat. He then added some pretty crappy decals which are now starting to peal on there own so should be easy to remove. I wish to add a red S4RS style centre stripe and new decal.  What's should I do? Should I wet sand the entire tank with say a 1500 grit, apply stripe and decal and then just clear coat it? Or is there more to it?

Cheers,  Marty

The tank as is:


The decal stripe I wish to add (it's been pre-cut for me):

[ducpainter]

If there's no metallic in the black that is just what you'd do, except you don't need to go as fine as 1500. 1000 is about as fine as I'd recommend as the paint on the tank is completely cured and the clear needs 'teeth' for adhesion. I'd probably use P800.

Keep in mind the black will be glossy unless you use a matte clear.

[MonsterMadMarty]

THANK YOU 

[ducpainter]

No problem.

Another word of warning... be gentle when you sand the black, especially near the edges. You have no idea how much paint was applied, and chasing cut throughs will test your color matching skills.

Blacks are not all the same.

If the paint job is 'peely' you can fix that with additional applications of clear.

[MonsterMadMarty]

Another question!

How thick is Powdercoat? Prior to getting coated should I put bolts in to stop the threads getting coated, or is it best to tap them once I get it back? Plus is it possible to mark areas such as the inner part of the triple tree?

Cheers again 

[ducpainter]

The powder coater should plug threaded holes...tell him you expect him to.

Special tape is required for masking because of the bake temps.

You should show them/mark them and they'll tape it...

if they're any good.

[MonsterMadMarty]

Special tape is required for masking because of the bake temps.

Do you know what the tape is called? I would prefer to prep it myself so I know all will be good.

[ducpainter]

Google high temp tape for powder coating.

I'd avoid headed bolts that stick up above the surface for plugging threaded holes as there is a danger of pulling powder from around the hole, and coverage will be an issue.

They make silicone rubber plugs for that purpose. I've used allen set screws with liquid paint, but powder builds more and you might not get a wrench in them afterwards.

The guy doing the coating should have all the supplies. Maybe you could talk to him about you doing the masking/plugging with his materials.

[herm]

why can't i get a nice flat coat of paint on my new walls?


seriously!

[ducpainter]

why can't i get a nice flat coat of paint on my new walls?


seriously!

Hire a painter...

It probably has something to do with your technique. You have to figure out how to leave a wet edge. It typically involves moving very quickly across the wall, and not rolling things out too much and then starting a new wet pass.

Are you using flat or eggshell?

Keep in mind interior house painting is not my forte`. I have a few spots in the house that aren't exactly to my liking.