DIY Painting Tips

[TAftonomos]

I would buy a new helmet ,if it is used throw it away and buy another one
And about painting a helmet ,don't if you are not sure that it can be done (some helmets can be painted some don't)

Hmm...toss a 450$ hemet because it's got a small scuff on it?  No thanks, I'll paint it.

[Mac_48]

sorry if this is in the wrong section, but I thought painting would be here.  So when I bought my helmet, I was in a rush cause I was late to my msf class and needed a helmet, so I grabbed the first one that fit reasonably well.  that just so happened to be a CL-15.  I have no complaints with how the helmet fits, but the flames on the sides have been pissing me off more and more so I have decided to paint it flat black.  I know that there are a few good painters on this board and I thought it would be cool if you guys could give me instructions on how to paint it like how to mask it and what to use to sand and paint it.  will I need primer? I want this to be able to hold up well.  I just want it to be flat black.  thanks for the help!

thanks

[ducpainter]

thanks

Are you going to answer my question so I can answer yours?

[Mac_48]

uh....what question?


Edit.....
Oh...lol......it does.  It looks like this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/2008_HJC_CL-15_Session_Helmet.jpg  It sorta looks like it is a big sticker almost but it is too smooth for me to peel so I think it is clear coated over the sticker.

[ducpainter]

uh....what question?


Edit.....
Oh...lol......it does.  It looks like this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/300/2008_HJC_CL-15_Session_Helmet.jpg  It sorta looks like it is a big sticker almost but it is too smooth for me to peel so I think it is clear coated over the sticker.

It is clear coated over it.

The one thing you probably don't want to do is sand through the clear into the decals...unless you're planning on removing them completely...didn't think so.

For a flat black job I'd sand it dull with 400 dry.

Mask or remove what needs to be...don't remove the black gasket from the bottom edge.

and paint it. You don't need primer.

If you can get an activated flat  paint premixed in an aerosol dispenser, do that. It will make the paint resistant to all the chemicals on your hands when you are around a bike.

If not, pick the flat black rattle can of choice.

Have fun.

[Mac_48]

I always seem to get ovrspray somehow when I mask things ....it is usually right at the edge of where I am painting and it pisses me off.....do you have any tips on what take to use and how to keep the paint where it needs to be? thanks 

[ducpainter]

I always seem to get ovrspray somehow when I mask things ....it is usually right at the edge of where I am painting and it pisses me off.....do you have any tips on what take to use and how to keep the paint where it needs to be? thanks 

That happens sometimes, and yes it is a major piss off.

What are you using to mask?

News papers, or purpose made masking materials?

I usually use a border of 3M fine line tape and then use masking plastic or paper beyond that.

You really need to make sure the tape is pushed down. Compressed air/ overspray and liquid paint will find a way through if you give it even half a chance.

Another mistake is to not have sufficient overlap between the border tape and the tape for the masking material and you get these very narrow lines of paint.

I hate it when that happens.

[TAftonomos]

Since I lack airbrush skills, and lack the desire to pay someone for thiers, what is the best way to clear over a sticker?

Can I have a stick made up in a special material/thickness that will work better?

[ducpainter]

Since I lack airbrush skills, and lack the desire to pay someone for thiers, what is the best way to clear over a sticker?

Can I have a stick made up in a special material/thickness that will work better?

The best decals to paint over are thinner than what is usually available.

OEM style decals are printed on clear vinyl which is intended to be cleared, and is much thinner.

As far as the technique for clearing over...

go easy on the first coat.

[Big Troubled Bear]

Any sticker can be cleared over, the trick is to just make sure the surfuce that the sticker is going on is clean, it is the same principle as for painting and make sure the sticker is down properly.

Take it very slow and light with the first coat especialy with metallic vinyl stickers, after that give it 3 normal clearcoats.

The next step is up to you, but I wet sand with a 1000 grit and give 3 more coats of clear before polishing.

Works good enough for Ducati on their repair jobs

[scott_araujo]

Ducpainter, I've got a red Superbike fender I'm going to put on my Dark Monster.  I plan to do a bargain rattle can paint job on it: PlastiKote 7179 and a Krylon matte clear over that.  I'll sand and prep, use a rattle can adhesion promoter.  Any suggestions on rattle can brands of adhesion promoter?  Do I still need primer after the adhesion promoter?  Any inexpensive brands of matte clear better than Krylon readily available?

Thanks,
Scott

[ducpainter]

If you don't sand through to the plastic an adhesion promoter isn't necessary. If you use 4-600 you shouldn't need to prime. The Krylon will stick to the mechanically abraded surface.

If you do sand through to plastic and have used the grit I suggested the adhesion promoter should be sufficient. It has some filling properties. A word of caution...put the adhesion promoter on in a light coat. If it sags it will swell the plastic and it'll be a chore to fix it.

Sherwin-Williams makes a good rattle can promoter as does Fiberglass-Evercoat. I used to use the Evercoat product when it was available in bulk, and I've used the S-W product.

I'd guess the Krylon would be as good as any non catalyzed clear. I don't use rattle cans so I don't have much experience with them.

[scott_araujo]

Thanks.  I  didn't plan to sand through the original paint, just 600 or 800 wet sanding on the whole thing.  It's in fairly good shape.  Should I still use a primer or just go straight to the color coat?

Scott

[Langanobob]

Scott, just wondering about the clear Krylon.  Do  you think it will yellow pretty fast if it's in the sun a lot?  Do you need a clear coat?  What about just using matte black paint?  At least for sure it won't yellow.  Just conjecture and I don't really know.

DP, I understand your reasoning as a pro for not using rattle cans, for us amateurs we'd usually have to buy a minimum one quart plus catalyst/hardener of "real" paint for a small job like one fender and the $$ can add up real fast.  Then we end up with a whole shelf full of partly used paint cans that we'll never use.  I have pictures.

[scott_araujo]

Bob, I was originally planning to get the ColorRite Dark paint.  Then I heard that it wasn't all that great (chips, flaking) and isn't guranteed to be a spot on match for coor or finish.  At $30-40 plus shipping for one spray can I want more than that.  Duplicolor GM 7179 is a very close match but gloss, no matte option.  The Dark black is actually matt black with silver and gold flecks, standard matte black does not match and some are more flat than matte making it worse.  Even DP has trouble matching color and finish on Dark Ducs, I remember he posted about a Dark silver bike that was a pain.  The Duplicolor might be close enough but I figure a matt over it would be closer, we'll see once I get it painted if I need the matte clear.

Clear yellowing over black paint?  How could I tell?  Why would I care?  

I just want the extra protection for the fork legs that a SB front fender offers, and I also dig the look.  I got the fender cheap.  It isn't right next to any other painted part and isn't likely to get any fuel or oil on it so like you said, rattle cans are a very inexpensive option.  From all the reading I've done the GM 7179 wiht some matte clear is closest at the lowest price point. 

I'll keep y'all posted.  If it looks really bad then I'll paint it white or silver and teach myself to pinstripe, make it an accent piece.

Thanks,
Scott



Scott